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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 | In my 51 GMC I have a '59 chevy truck 6 cylinder drive line. I have a pretty loud clunk when I let off the gas. Checked the u-joints and tehy are tight. carrier bearing is tight as well. If anyone has any suggestions, what direction should I head to in next? | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Welcome to Stovebolt.com
What is your: Truck model Engine Transmission Rear end Drive shaft
| | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 | The drive line is a '59 Chevy 235 '59 4 speed granny low '59 chevy rear , don't know the ratio 2 part drive shaft with center carrier bearing
| | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 | The drive line is a '59 Chevy 235 '59 4 speed granny low '59 chevy rear , don't know the ratio 2 part drive shaft with center carrier bearing also it's a half ton GMC long bed | | | | Joined: Sep 2012 Posts: 306 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2012 Posts: 306 | ** I would first look at the rear engine mounts & go from there. ** | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | It is very common that you can't tell a bad Ujoint by hand. Often times you can't tell with all four wheel off the ground and motor running, etc because there is no "load". Most of the time you can hear the general area of the noise. If you don't find anything wrong, it's the Ujoints. Maybe the carrier bearing too. If you replace them, make sure you know what "phasing" means. | | | | Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2018 Posts: 9 | Thanks for the hints I will update as soon as I have investigated more
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Here's what I do when I have an issue similar to yours. First, once you determine that something isn't about to fall off, just drive it. The problem will likely get worse over time. Once this happens, it should be easier to diagnose. Whatever is making the clunk will become more loose, and show itself. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | Jack the rear of the truck up and place jack stands under each side. Sit on the floor beside the wheel and rotate it back and forth as hard as you can. Make sure the trans is in neutral. Have someone watch under the truck and listen for the noise or see where the slack is. Primitive to say the least but you might just get lucky.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | It probably has a lot of slack in the rear end spider gears. With the trans. in neutral put on the emer. brake & see how much the drive shaft turns back & forth. Its a good idea to pull the cover off the rear end & check it over & replace the gear lube.
George They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Another primitive way is to get on a level surface, car in some high gear, rock it back and forth on the level surface while looking under and listening for noise, a helpful friend that can be conned in to do the rocking makes the job easier.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 486 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 486 | I had that on my 68 after having it worked on at a local garage. I had put some shims on one side of each U bolt that holds the back axle on to correct the pinion angle. The mechanic saw them and didn't know what they were for so he took them out. He neglected to tell me about it and he also neglected to tighten the U bolts back, leaving slack that allowed the axle to rotate a little under torque. Got the clunk every time I shifted. Once I figured it out it was an easy fix.
'64 swb stepside (gone) '57 1 ton '53 phone truck '59 swb '46 1 1/2 ton '68 swb gmc
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