The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help with engine/transmission removal.

Hello all. My son and I are trying to remove a 235 with a four speed transmission out of a 1952 Chevy 3100. The transmission is hitting the cross member. When we try to get the front of the engine higher to increase the angle, the back of the engine hits the cab. And then there is the issue of how the top part of the transmission clears the fire wall. We were hoping to pull out the old as a unit and install a new as a unit. The manual indicates that it can be done, but I was wondering if the assumption was a column shift and because ours was a floor shift, it wasn't applicable.

Any tips would be appreciated.

I recently removed my 216 and SM420 4-speed, and my initial plan was also to do the job with them still attached. After making an attempt, I decided there's no way it would ever be possible to remove them as a single unit while the cab is in place. The transmission hangs down too far to clear the cross member. If someone proves me wrong, I'd be curious to know how it's done.

You might be able to get the assembly out in one piece if you remove the top cover of the SM 420 transmission first. Even then it would be a tight fit. Make a sheet metal cover plate, or even use heavy cardboard to keep dirt and crud out of the transmission.
Jerry

I think the school solution is pull the trans first. I would recommend locating a trans jack to do this. Or you could remove the grill and radiator mounting frame and pull it out as a unit through the grill area. I haven't done it that way but I am pretty sure it will work. Easy to get at the front motor mount and the rears are going to be the same no matter which way you do it.

Thanks all! The shop manual indicated that it could come out as a unit so we were doing our best to make it happen. But it sure looked like a square peg and a round hole. Again, I'm assuming the manual refers to a three on the tree and not a four on the floor?

We will remove the transmission first and then re-attempt the engine pull. Will have to wait for another weekend though. Honey do list has got me tied up for the next couple.

It is pretty easy to remove the whole front clip intact, just a few bolts. Makes engine a whole lot easier, check all hidden 'tin.

Ed

My Low Cab Forward has a doghouse that makes for great access but still had to separate the tranny to get them out. I did not try to remove the top of the trans because I didn't think it would give the clearance that was needed.

i second the idea of removing the whole front clip. it sounds daunting so folks generally don't want to go that route, but it really is just a few bolts. A bonus is you will not damage your fenders, grill, radiator, etc with all that out of the way

I’ll be removing a 216 in Austin soon to transplant into my ‘50. The front clip is off the donor truck, so pulling that engine/tranny will be pretty easy. Pullling the engine/tranny from my truck will be more difficult because the sheet metal is there. Please excuse me for asking such a simple question, but where are the bolts that need to be removed to allow the front clip to be removed intact? I’ve never done something like this and, as mentioned above, it seems daunting to me.

Many thanks!

There are bolts that attach the inner and outer fenders to the cab on both sides, and some bolts that attach the radiator core support to the frame in the front. The brace rods from the cowl to the core support also need to be disconnected. Once those bolts are removed, the entire fender/grill/core support assembly can be lifted off intact by 2 or 3 people. The hood can be propped or tied into its full open position, and usually doesn't have to be removed unless you want a little more working room.
Jerry

Thanks a lot Jerry. Seems pretty straight forward and not as complicated as I thought. I’ll look under the hood and also crawl underneath to locate the bolts you spoke of. Now I’m not dreading the job as much as before.

I believe some of the bolts for the back of the fenders need to be accessed from inside the cab, but it's been some time since I removed a front clip. I believe the ODSS guys swapped engines in John's big pickup that way. Give them a shout and I'm sure somebody can give you more precise directions.

Edit: Don't forget to disconnect the headlight wire harness!
Jerry

Some of those bolts that need to be removed from the inside can be replaced with studs and nuts makeing for a one person operation-my kids are all gone.

Ed

If you also remove the front bumper it will save you scratching the fenders. Don't ask me how I know.

I recently pulled out 235 engine and 4-speed tranny combination from my truck. I had everything removed (including transmission cover plate) from the front for the total restoration. I still couldn't get engine/ tranny out, because tranny has a part that hangs below/behind transmission cross mount. Ended up lifting the cab a few inches to get enough room.

I pulled the engine with tranny as the shop manual states. The combination did come out. Using an adjustable screw device allowed me to adjust the level of the engine/tranny on the way out. I would NOT recommend this. See first pic.
Pulling engine with tranny.

The old timers used to cut the radiator support frame and remove it. Mine was rewelded 2 times but not the 3rd time after previous engine pulls. Easier for me.
Radiator support cuts.

I did try the engine and tranny combo. Yeah, it didn't work, even with the adjustable engine positioner on the lift. It was easier to me to drop the trans. You can use the engine hoist through the door to support the transmission from with the transmission cover removed inside the cab and lower it to flat furniture mover underneath the trans. Then wheel it out of the way. Then do the opposite reinstalling it. Just a little advice, get all 4 wheels up on blocks for more ground clearance to work under the truck. I use 6X6 bocks of wood. Make sure the parking break works and also block the tires front and back to the 6X6's with lags so the truck will stay put!
Good luck, Jim

As a highschool kid that didn't tip the scales over 150 at the time, I used to grab the gear shift lever and remove the last top bolt from the transmission to flywheel housing, and lower the transmission to the ground. On a half ton 57, yes and also put it in the same way. Yeah the trans weighed about what I did. So it can be done without a jack.

LOL
We all did dumb things as kids. I used to carry around bare Model A blocks. My back is worse for doing that, and I was a big kid (6'3" and 180 lb). I recall that my dad once bench pressed the 4-speed tranny out of his '48 GMC shop truck when it needed fixing.

I found dropping the gearbox first was much easier, for me. With the help of an engine hoist sticking thru the passenger door and then connected to the gear box, this allows me to slowly drop the gearbox down to the ground. Then slide it out from under the truck.