The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Dipstick Depth

On my 1950 two-ton 6400 I’ve rebuilt and installed a 1954 261 engine. The dipstick goes all the way in and actually hits the bottom of the oil pan. Yep, she’s in all the way. On the dipstick is a little metal disk that covers the tube when the stick is in. About half way up the shaft is a little notch area that looks like the metal disk cover might used to have been tack welded. Is your little tube cover attached to the dipstick or does the cover freely slide up and down the dipstick shaft? Does your dipstick bottom out in the pan? With the dipstick bottomed in the pan, 5 quarts oil looks to be a qt too full.

I’ve not taken measurements to check dipstick depth as have nothing to compare them to. Could measure how far the stick’s notch drops into the tube when the stick is bottomed out and how far the notch goes into the tube, bottom of pan to top of the tube, etc.

I have only had 1954 3100.
The larger truck pans might be different.
Maybe someone will check a Master Parts Catalog?

“Is your little tube cover attached to the dipstick or does the cover freely slide up and down the dipstick shaft?”
I think there is a bend/tab in the stick, that keeps the “cover” from moving up/down.

“Does your dipstick bottom out in the pan? With the dipstick bottomed in the pan, 5 quarts oil looks to be a qt too full.”
No

“Could measure how far the stick’s notch drops into the tube when the stick is bottomed out and how far the notch goes into the tube,”
I’ll try to remember to do this tomorrow.

Where does the oil leave a mark on your existing dipstick now when full? That should tell you where it belongs.

ED

Here's how I go about determining a safe running range. Start with an empty oil pan and add 3 quarts of oil. Position the stick so the level aligns with the "add" mark. Adding another 1 1/2-2 quarts should bring the level to the "full" mark on most dipsticks unless you've got an oddball pan sump volume. Most canister-type oil filters such as Fram or AC retain about 1/2 quart after several hours of the engine not running, so 4 1/2 quarts in the pan usually puts the level at full on the dipstick.
Jerry

Oil pan is off right now to fix a leak on the front seal, waiting on the new gasket set, should be here this week. But I measured from the the tip of the dipstick to that little flanged notch where it looks like the tube cover disk should be attached. 15-1/4”. Without the disk welded on, the dipstick can be pushed all the way in to the finger holder on top. So does 15-1/4” agree with your dipstick length from the tube cover disk (top of the tube) to the end of the stick?

Forgot to say, it’s an early 54 engine and does not have an oil filter. I’m pretty sure 5 quarts is correct but will compare to the stick marks when I get the pan reinstalled.

With the pan off, it's a very simple matter to use a framing square or something similar from the pan rail of the block and/or the top of the flange of the oil pan to establish the correct distance to set the dipstick. Just be sure to add or subtract 1/8" to compensate for the thickness of the gasket.
Jerry

Oil pan gaskets arrived and pan is installed. Added 5 qts oil and found the level at the full mark with the dipstick inserted to the little notch area. I tack welded the little round dipstick tube cover right there at the notch. No more problems with pencil marks and fingers holding the little doodad in place while I inspected the oil line on the dipstick. If the dipstick tags the bottom of the pan as before, almost an inch deeper, then five qts read high above the full mark, You’ll probably have less than four qts to read full (I didn’t check that though).

Oil pan gasket was replaced due to the front leaking, the front curved section. Last time, I used the rubber curved piece from Best Gasket, and installed with the block upside down on the engine stand. Perfect conditions right? Unknowingly, it still slipped sideways when I installed the pan. This time I used Mahle cork gaskets with the engine installed. Unbolted the front motor mount, raised the front of the engine an inch, used a little 3M spray glue and glued the cork gasket to the pan before slipping it up in place. Still a difficult insertion, but good now. Did not use any gasket adhesive (Permatex Ultra Black) except in the four corners where the short curved gaskets meet the long flat gaskets.

If you have PCV, you'll want to seal the dipstick where it goes in. Using a piece of 1/4" brass tube, a brazing rod, a penny and a couple of o-rings, I made this dipstick and drilled 2 holes. One with 4 quarts in the pan and one with 5 quarts in the pan (spin-on filter which doesn't drain down).

https://beta.photobucket.com/u/JonGoodman/p/46f8cb55-e656-4fe4-b920-fea37cedfce1

Now that’s a smart dipstick! And a great idea, will implement before she makes her first test drive in 25 years.