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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 | Andy, click on LINKS at the top of this page. You will find several suppliers other than those you’ve listed.ðŸ›
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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| | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | Andy, click on LINKS at the top of this page. You will find several suppliers other than those you’ve listed.🛠Thanks Martin! Will do, but I'm really looking for feedback and comments from folks who have done this job and could possibly recommend one supplier over the other! I have no doubt there are a lot more suppliers out there. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | American AutoWire is the top of the line, best instructions, most complete with extras. Many other lower priced options. Some may use PVC wire, some may use GXL. GXL is "better". PVC is adequate. The number of circuits, wire quality and extras control price. Rip out old, put in new. Keep old harness in tact is case you need some reference. Tie wrap the old harness before removing to keep organized. Keep all old connectors, fuse panels, terminal blocks, switches , etc. attached if possible and make notes. Usually you don't need to refer to the old harness, just follow the new directions. First thing you do is locate the new fuse panel. It will have harnesses flowing out of it. Branch harnesses. Some go to/under dash, some go out the fire wall, some in cab. Think hard about the routing if the wires. Mock up the routing before cutting and terminating. It will make sense as you go. Not that many wires on a 46, not too hard to understand and we will help.
Grounding is a BIG issue. Your harness pays little or no attention to this. It's up to you to restore the ground paths when restoring/refurbishing/rewiring a truck. So arrange ground straps between battery and motor, motor to frame, frame to body. In any order. Various other individual ground places need clean metal, hardware attachment. Many places rely only on metal to metal contact by bolting or screwing together. Be aware of that. Visualize that ALL return paths/negative is thru the truck metal. For bulbs, motors, some switches, horn, relays......
The "option to add turn signals" will be a industry standard connector in your harness that accepts an aftermarket turn signal unit. Your 46 may also need additional lights so as to have left and right blinkers in front and rear. Available from the vendors.
If you use the search function, you will see what everyone has said about harnesses from all the companies mentioned. Make sure the truck is "ready" for wiring. People have different ideas as to what stage wiring is done.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | You might not have seen this one. https://brillman.comHe manufactures and sells the vintage type wire to most if not all the other vintage wiring harness makers/sellers. I found prices to be lower than the rest, and quality second to none. Probably within your budget and can have original. If they don’t list a harness for your truck they can make one with a good sample. They’re working on a harness for my truck now, adding turn signals and trailer plug at the back. Worth a visit just to see how they make the wire and the huge inventory of everything automotive electrical. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | American AutoWire is the top of the line, best instructions, most complete with extras. Many other lower priced options. Some may use PVC wire, some may use GXL. GXL is "better". PVC is adequate. The number of circuits, wire quality and extras control price. Rip out old, put in new. Keep old harness in tact is case you need some reference. Tie wrap the old harness before removing to keep organized. Keep all old connectors, fuse panels, terminal blocks, switches , etc. attached if possible and make notes. Usually you don't need to refer to the old harness, just follow the new directions. First thing you do is locate the new fuse panel. It will have harnesses flowing out of it. Branch harnesses. Some go to/under dash, some go out the fire wall, some in cab. Think hard about the routing if the wires. Mock up the routing before cutting and terminating. It will make sense as you go. Not that many wires on a 46, not too hard to understand and we will help.
Grounding is a BIG issue. Your harness pays little or no attention to this. It's up to you to restore the ground paths when restoring/refurbishing/rewiring a truck. So arrange ground straps between battery and motor, motor to frame, frame to body. In any order. Various other individual ground places need clean metal, hardware attachment. Many places rely only on metal to metal contact by bolting or screwing together. Be aware of that. Visualize that ALL return paths/negative is thru the truck metal. For bulbs, motors, some switches, horn, relays......
The "option to add turn signals" will be a industry standard connector in your harness that accepts an aftermarket turn signal unit. Your 46 may also need additional lights so as to have left and right blinkers in front and rear. Available from the vendors.
If you use the search function, you will see what everyone has said about harnesses from all the companies mentioned. Make sure the truck is "ready" for wiring. People have different ideas as to what stage wiring is done. Thank you! That is very helpful. In your opinion: when is a truck ready for wiring and when is it not? | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | You might not have seen this one. https://brillman.comHe manufactures and sells the vintage type wire to most if not all the other vintage wiring harness makers/sellers. I found prices to be lower than the rest, and quality second to none. Probably within your budget and can have original. If they don’t list a harness for your truck they can make one with a good sample. They’re working on a harness for my truck now, adding turn signals and trailer plug at the back. Worth a visit just to see how they make the wire and the huge inventory of everything automotive electrical. Thank you! I’ll reach out to them for sure! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | After any painting to be done. After plumbing of fuel and brakes. After rust repairs and welding is done. Before carpeting. Things like that. Toward the end of a restoration effort. If you plan no other work like that, then it's ready now. It's kind of an opinion driven decision.
Even though someone plans those things, they may wish to drive it with good new wiring now and work around the wiring in a year or two. My comment was toward a planed restoration sequence. Wiring being near the end. It also depends on the era of truck and number of circuits and extras.
It is necessary to have all components in place to see the routing and mock up for cut off lengths of wire. A custom harness or well designed harness may not need that.
I don't know what "phase" your truck is in regarding restoration or what style you plan. Full resto, daily driver, hot rod, restomod, etc.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | After any painting to be done. After plumbing of fuel and brakes. After rust repairs and welding is done. Before carpeting. Things like that. Toward the end of a restoration effort. If you plan no other work like that, then it's ready now. It's kind of an opinion driven decision.
Even though someone plans those things, they may wish to drive it with good new wiring now and work around the wiring in a year or two. My comment was toward a planed restoration sequence. Wiring being near the end. It also depends on the era of truck and number of circuits and extras.
It is necessary to have all components in place to see the routing and mock up for cut off lengths of wire. A custom harness or well designed harness may not need that.
I don't know what "phase" your truck is in regarding restoration or what style you plan. Full resto, daily driver, hot rod, restomod, etc. Ok. Thank you - makes sense. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1,004 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 1,004 | i would also suggest anyone looking for wire to call Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. for a quote http://www.riwire.comi got wire from these folks and it was very nice and competitively priced and they will make custom wire for basically the same price as the stuff in stock, so just cause you don't see it listed doesn't mean they don't have it. i don't know how they stay in business at the prices they charge -s | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | i would also suggest anyone looking for wire to call Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. for a quote http://www.riwire.comi got wire from these folks and it was very nice and competitively priced and they will make custom wire for basically the same price as the stuff in stock, so just cause you don't see it listed doesn't mean they don't have it. i don't know how they stay in business at the prices they charge -s This is great and some of the individual prices are great, but $526 for the Dash, Engine and Headlight Harness seems pretty steep!
Last edited by AndyBauer; 12/04/2018 10:25 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | You said PVC is good for you so that tells you to get a generic harness with minimum circuits. If you are not a purest and just want good new wire, those basic harnesses will work just fine. Get one with pre wired fuse panel. It is slightly confusing to " stay 6V, stay original as possible" and not want to spend on an original/custom for 1946, harness. We don't know how to advise but have covered every option/price. (PVC generic to custom cloth). Big dollar will have little or no crimping or soldering to do, others will have various quantities of crimping/soldering/termination/length cutting, shrink sleeving and looming to do. None of which is difficult. Pull the trigger and move down range. 
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | You said PVC is good for you so that tells you to get a generic harness with minimum circuits. If you are not a purest and just want good new wire, those basic harnesses will work just fine. Get one with pre wired fuse panel. Pull the trigger and move down range. Ok- that could work, but I was actually referring to PVC harnesses that are specifically made for my particular truck. Truth be told- I’m not an expert and I think a harness specifically made for my truck will make my life a bit easier. One day and years down the road I will get a Cotton braided harness- I am a purist. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Andy, I was editing as you answered. Added some info/thoughts. I understand your position now. Good luck.
P.S. There is no need to be an expert to wire a 46 stock truck. It's pretty easy. Nothing at all difficult. Some people equate wiring these old trucks with TV programs of guys struggling with modern computer wiring. It's nothing like that. A bundle of wires looks like a nightmare to some. You just wire them up one at a time. DC wiring, with no return wiring, is very simple. Everything on our trucks has a switch to turn something on and off.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | Andy, I was editing as you answered. Added some info/thoughts. I understand your position now. Good luck.
P.S. There is no need to be an expert to wire a 46 stock truck. It's pretty easy. Nothing at all difficult. Some people equate wiring these old trucks with TV programs of guys struggling with modern computer wiring. It's nothing like that. A bundle of wires looks like a nightmare to some. You just wire them up one at a time. DC wiring, with no return wiring, is very simple. Everything on our trucks has a switch to turn something on and off. Thank you. Yes - that sounds encouraging. As per my original post I was really just hoping to find out others experiences with the various suppliers and their products. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Is your original a good pattern, crispy but complete and mostly unmolested?
In any case call and ask what Brillman has to offer. They’re close enough you could even go visit. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 196 | Is your original a good pattern, crispy but complete and mostly unmolested?
In any case call and ask what Brillman has to offer. They’re close enough you could even go visit. Yes- I did contact him and his price is $545 for the harness. I have heard him mentioned a few times now. Thank you | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Great, thanks for the info! | | |
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