Posted in wrong category - trying here...... Well here's the deal...The later model wheels are Not hub centric also have a larger lug hole opening.....On the rear of my truck the inners are the original split rims which through the hub and lug holes carry the weight of the truck....The outers are the later model wheels and are basically only held in place by the taper of the lug nut.... I have enough split rim & later wheels but just need to know how other people were able to use the later model wheels on a split rim truck....
I indicated that I might still use the split rims if the tire shop would mount new tires on them.....well I took one of the spare split rim wheels and mounted it on the truck,as the outer, so that I would have two original split rims on one side......As I started to inflate the tire, I got it to about 35-40 lbs and I heard a crack....I stepped away as I knew what was going to happen.....sure enough moments later, I heard what sounded like a shot gun blast and a cloud of dust.... the rim blew apart from being rusted where the rust could not be scene......will get a pic of that rim as well......Needless to say the split rim days are over for the truck......
I’m not sure why your hubs don’t fit the wheels. Dodge If I recall had a different center bore on the same 8 lug pattern, perhaps mixed up wheels or different axle? Measure the bore in your various wheels and also pilot diameter on hub and share your findings.
I did quite a bit of researching prior to posting, also collected a bunch of wheels.....Its amazing how many different ones there are for 1 ton trucks.....Someone on this forum suggested replacing the lug studs and drilling the axle...I really want to avoid modifying the truck, and either find the correct wheels, or using bushings to take up the slack....Just think its easier to modify the wheels.....Would really like to know what other guys did to resolve this issue......
I..Would really like to know what other guys did to resolve this issue......
Seems other people don't have this issue. Dual wheels, 8 lug on 6.5" bolt circle, are hub piloted. You're saying yours aren't all hub piloted. Which is why more info and measurements are necessary to figure out what you have and why it's not the same as everyone else.
Multi piece wheels and tubeless wheels most always have the same center bore for same bolt pattern, certianly same center bore for same hub centered application. This should not be the problem, if so you have some odd or modified wheels or hubs.
The 1/2" lug studs vs the 9/16" studs was a change made somewhere in the late 60's or 70's. You can find older 18" and 19.5" wheels with the smaller 1/2" stud holes for the older trucks. Easy to find somewhat more modern wheels that fit 9/16" studs. I have used these wheels on my old GMC with the smaller studs, because they are hub piloted I haven't been concerned about a little more slop on the lug studs, others do the same. If you really wanted to you can carefully drill or ream the holes in the hubs and drums to fit larger 9/16" studs, a lot of work for little gain.
Ok - Learning & knowledge is the key here.... I will get the measurements & pics by this weekend.....Based on the pics I sent, I am 99% certain the rear axle assy. & the inner of the dual wheels are original to the truck....so the challenge is to find a 16" wheel that has the exact center hub measurement, leaving the lug hole diameter as basically a non issue, which I'm good with that....I really want to keep 16" wheels and avoid going to a 18 or 19" wheel... I am also certain that the later outer wheel in the second pic I sent, came off a mid eighties C30 as I took them off the truck myself.....Now another question....On the front of this mid eighties truck, there was a plate bolted on the outside of the wheel, which I believe to be a factory application....just wondering what that's all about...I will send a pic of that as well....I truly appreciate your time & effort on this.....Thank You.....
2000 and prior GM used 8 lug on 6.5" bolt circle with 4.56" bore. After 2000 I believe they switched to a center bore of 4.60 for most applications, but not sure if the step vans and related chassis kept the old bore or not?
Perhaps you have the much later model wheels, wrong center bore.
OK - was able to get the measurement of the center pilot hole...4 1/2 exactly - and the distance between the lug studs is 2 1/2 center to center, in the lug hole diameter....In other words running the ruler between the holes for the lug studs....Hope this helps.....
Those measurements don't match anything I know of.
If 8 lug on 6.5" bolt circle, measured center to center of directly opposite lug holes. Or measured center to center of adjacent lug holes is ~1.9" this is not a good way to measure/determine bolt circle diameter. 4.56" is smallest center bore I know of with an 8 lug pattern.
Yes it is correct, diameter is measured one side to other straight across the center of the bore.
The confusion is I don't know of an 8 lug bolt pattern with 4.5" center bore. I'd guess either you have something unusual or might need more care in measuring.
OK - making a bit of headway.....When you said the 'smallest center bore you know of is: 4.56' - I'm guessing this measurement was taken with a Dial Caliper? - If you recommend that would be the best way to measure the bore, I can do that tomorrow....I'm having both wheels brought to my house tomorrow, so I can communicate with you more intelligently.....Again Thank you for your patience.......
Dial caliper is a good measuring tool. A good steel rule with practice can measure down to 0.005 when necessary. A tape measure little more difficult to get precision necessary here.
Ok - Today was a fun day removing the inner wheel.....I hope the attached pics can shed some opportunity for later model tubeless wheels....Tried to test fit a later wheel, however would not go over the brakes drum.....needed another 1 3/4 inches before wheel could make contact with the face of the drum....
Looks like normal Eaton axle and hubs. The actual hub pilot diameter where the wheel fits on the hub is larger than where you show the measurements.
Depending on brake size you might have to have 19.5” wheels if you want tubeless. My 1951 1 ton dual only just fit 19.5” wheels, they’re less than 1/4” from hitting the drum, a 16” wheel certainly wouldn’t fit the rear of my truck.
Looking at pic# 2 (the pic between the 2 dial calipers) the hub has a ridge, against the face of the drum, where the lugs come through....I can't tell when the wheel is on, but does the hub of the wheel go over that ridge or fall short of it?
Just a bit of history on the truck...I bought it 6 years ago and really did not have the time to devote to it, due to my work schedule, I am now retired.... I wanted a 67-72 Chevy 1 ton dump truck, and Not an 8 cyl. This has a 292, exactly what I was looking for.....I'm guessing after, the lets say original owner or two, it fell into the wrong hands...and my guess is who ever had it felt it was an old piece of junk and wasn't going to spend any $$$ on it...example: instead of getting the correct alternator with the extended pulley, they cut the cast iron bracket on the block to shove the alternator forward...and the fan belt was still cocked...They had the wrong fan blade along with the pulley & radiator, the torque of the engine made a big gouge on the radiator. The cracks in the exhaust manifold was repaired with JB Weld? - The carburetor was beat to death from banging on it to free a stuck float. I can go on & on.....They found the solution to fit the 16.5 on the front by removing the hubs & throwing them away.....(I have since obtained another pair) The outer wheels in the back what I thought would be late model GM, are not, as shown in the larger pilot hole in the beginning of this thread.....Although the cab & nose looks good, its not...I bought 2 rust & dent free doors, same with the fenders, hood & rad support. Picked up a sweet used grille & shell with no dents. I also have to change the dash as its carved out from built in stereo & CB?? The frame & undercarriage will be sandblasted & painted. I have an extra seat which is already restored with the original type cover.....I really wish I could have found a better example but a fully restored one is out of the question, as I plan to use the truck, not show it at car shows....however I want it to be a nice truck... its kept indoors, and intend to pass it on, never selling it........Despite all the disasters this truck has/had, it runs so nice, good clutch, brakes, decent front end. I often think how wonderful these trucks were back in the day... Focusing back on my wheel situation, this needs to be resolved as a dry rotted flat brought it back to the forefront....Can't use a truck with floppy wheels & 6 dry rotted, mismatched tires....
