The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
1 members (Hotrod Lincoln), 104 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,089
Posts1,056,004
Members48,430
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 139
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 139
So I am currently trying to figure out what driveshaft I should put into my 1951 1/2 ton. It now has a 1964 SM420 open drive shaft and a 1957 HO32 chevy rear axle. I have the axle that fits the rear end so I can use that end to build a shaft. What do you recommend for the front ( I assume I’ll need a slip joint front since the yoke on the rear of the transmission is fixed). The length center-of-joint to center-of -joint is 63” and I want a single shaft. Is there anything out there that is close or do I need a front yoke and build a shaft?

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,192
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,192
I was advised by the local driveshaft expert to use a two piece shaft; 64" was too long in his opinion. Obviously, with a two piece shaft a steady bearing is required. Slip joint is used on the rear of the front shaft at the steady bearing. I got a core from a 68-71 GMC 4x4 and gave it to the drive shaft guy with the measurements needed.

Before I talked to the expert, I wasted a lot of time prowling wrecking years with a tape measure looking for a one piece shaft that would work. There was a Dodge one that might work, but the diameter of the tube was huge. It seems the longer the shaft, the bigger the diameter. Thinking back to my old structural engineering days, that would make sense.

Last edited by Gord&Fran; 11/08/2018 10:36 PM.

Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,054
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,054
I doubt that 63" is too long for a single shaft. My Ford Supercab Longbed has a 2 piece shaft, but both halves are about 4 ft long. I can understand why they put a 2-piece under that, but 63" isn't that long.
You will need a slip joint in the shaft, typically installed at the front. Should be an easy thing for a driveline shop to fab for you, either from scratch or modifying an older one. Just find something that's long enough with the right rear yoke and let them do the rest, installing a slip yoke and spline on the front end.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,192
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,192
OK, then. My advice is simple. Talk to the guy who will be cutting/welding/balancing your driveshaft(s) first.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,054
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,054
Originally Posted by Gord&Fran
OK, then. My advice is simple. Talk to the guy who will be cutting/welding/balancing your driveshaft(s) first.
I agree. The real experts are the ones that do it on a daily basis. I'm just an amateur when it comes to driveshafts, but I have had a few rebuilt/shortened.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
Snowman51
Assuming you are working on a 3100 series, AD truck (short bed) and, assuming that in my 1957 3100 w/SM420 has a comparable length driveshaft, I offer the following:
my (org) driveshaft is in the neighborhood of 60"+ long. Single shaft with slip just rear of the transmission. Served me well for ~200,000 mi in 60's, 70's and 80's. I will be reinstalling it when current and long going resto is complete. Trans, shaft and rear end are as from factory.
delky dave in wyo


1957, 3100, v8
2016 gmc 4wd
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
Snowman51
Assuming you are working on a 3100 series, AD truck (short bed) and, assuming that in my 1957 3100 w/SM420 has a comparable length driveshaft, I offer the following:
my (org) driveshaft is in the neighborhood of 60"+ long. Single shaft with slip just rear of the transmission. Served me well for ~200,000 mi in 60's, 70's and 80's. I will be reinstalling it when current and long going resto is complete. Trans, shaft and rear end are as from factory.
delky dave in wyo


1957, 3100, v8
2016 gmc 4wd
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 139
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 139
Yes it is a 3100 AD short bed, it now has a 1964 SM420, but has a 1957 HO 32 rear axle. Both ends have fixed u-joints so I will need a slip joint either in the front or the back. Will. A ‘57 3100 have a slip and will the shaft be enough length?

Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
As I see your issue, only actual measurement will answer that question.
Mine (as stated above) has slip yoke that attaches to rear of SM420. Mine is currently in my garage & not in truck. Would be happy to measure OA length between u joints & get them to you. Please advise. Good luck
delky dave in WY


1957, 3100, v8
2016 gmc 4wd
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
I believe you have a dropout style differential. Go to a driveshaft shop and tell them what you have and you want a driveshaft with a slip yoke for a sm420. They will advise and tell you what measurement they need and build it for you. One piece will work fine.

Option: there will be 55-59 trucks with dropout diff and SM420 to salvage a slip yoke driveshaft from. 57 is 114" WB and 51 is 116" WB. Shortening or lengthening an existing D/S may be cheaper.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 112
PM sent to Snowman51
delky dave in wyo


1957, 3100, v8
2016 gmc 4wd

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0