I have read through many past posts regarding wheel & tire choices. Several posts mentioned sealing wheel rivets on original AD wheels, if you plan to use tubeless tires. My question is: What do you use to seal the rivets, or how do you seal the rivets.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
The most effective way to seal the rivets would be with brass or silver solder, but that's also the most labor-intensive method. Given all the stresses a wheel undergoes during normal driving- - - -potholes, steering inputs, washboard bumps, etc., I'm not sure any of the recommended procedures such as epoxy paint, powder coating, and such would seal a slightly loose rivet for very long, if at all. Most riveted wheels hold air pressure well without doing anything heroic to seal them. A riveted wheel with an air leak should probably be replaced anyway.
Jerry
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On the safety is sissies topic..........tube rim still doesn't have the safety bead needed to run tubeless tires. The safety bead is other major difference from tube rims besides the air seal.
Do you have a riveted wheel that is leaking, or are you presuming they may leak? I’ve run riveted wheels without tubes without leaks. Powder coating may help seal a small leak, but not if a rivet is loose.
No, I don't have a leaky rim as far as I know. I have some original rims that I plan to use, and I just thought that I'd seal them up if it was a simple easy job. It sounds to me like I should just give them s good coat of paint and try them. I don't really know anything about the safety bead that is mentioned, or how big a deal it is. I am curious though.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
This is where I will recommend the use of POR-15.It will seal the leaks. Apply 2 coats. Inside the rim and out of the sun, it will not need to be topcoated. One thing, do not apply it to the bead contact area. POR-15 is slick enough the tire will lose it's grip on the rim. Drove my tire guy nuts until we figured out why my tires kept losing balance.
One thing, do not apply it to the bead contact area. POR-15 is slick enough the tire will lose it's grip on the rim. Drove my tire guy nuts until we figured out why my tires kept losing balance.
That slipping issue can be related to the safety bead or lack of it when tubeless tires are mounted on tube rims. The rim Bead area is different and the tire beads are not the same. Yes.......in know many have done the switch with no problems.
I probably should stay out of this conversation as I don't have the article....but a couple years ago, or more, Old Cars Weekly had a great article on how wheels are made, what strength, and radial tires on old rims. Wish I had cut it out and put it in my "info file". Its well worth reading if someone can find it...and it answered a lot of questions for me.
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That slipping issue can be related to the safety bead or lack of it when tubeless tires are mounted on tube rims. The rim Bead area is different and the tire beads are not the same. Yes.......in know many have done the switch with no problems.
I was using the wrong nomenclature. I should have said the inner flanges. Apply the POR to the area between the flanges.
Original question has been lost due to safety concerns. Warning: Opinion! Yes, tires are different from the old ones. But, not too different. Truck wheels, and truck tires are stiffer and heavier than car wheels and car tires. The load issues with old wheels and radial tires will depend on the condition of the wheel. Nothing has changed about that. Old wheels with lots of deep pits, or cracks remain suspect. Air leaks around rivets? Well, that was not an issue with tube type tires. If you have wheels that are in good shape(no cracks, loose rivets, or dents) then consider sealing the rivets. Are you gonna use a truck tire? I have and no problems. I do look for issues(wheels are over 60 years old). But so far no issues. Sealing the rivets: This has worked for me, heat the wheel around the rivets(a heat gun or a hair dryer will do the job). Make the area warm, not so warm it burns you but nice and warm. Mix an epoxy glue as the package says and apply. I use a popscicle stik(kind of fun to get the popscikle for my efforts) The epoxy will melt and flow into the leaky spot just fine. Let it set and cool. Then paint, coat or whatever you choose. Disclaimer time: If the "Radial tire/old wheel" issue is a concern for you. Get some new replacement wheels. Vendors should be willing to tell you if their wheels meet the current DOT standards. The epoxy trick just helps "seal" the wheel against air leaks.If you want "car" tires, then use replacement wheels.Skinny 6 ply pizza cutter truck tires seem to be OK. So far at least. I would not put a "wide" performance tire on any way. That seems to me at the very least, to be asking for trouble.
My 1956 22.5" tubeless wheels are factory riveted with no sign of any sealer used and they don't leak. If you're worried, do like others have suggested and run a thick coat of paint or POR-15 over the rivets and call it done!
