The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Engine-to-Bellhousing Alignment

Hello all, Getting close to installing a T5 in my '61 Apache 10, with its original 235. I removed the SM420 but the bellhousing still on the engine. The truck has 60,000 original miles, and after the removal of the trans, I can see no discernible wear on any of the components. The flywheel is in near-perfect shape, no need for resurfacing, so I've installed the new clutch. Is it necessary to check the engine-to-bellhousing alignment before installing the T5? The great condition of everything suggests good alignment, and since the bellhousing has not been moved in any way, I think I'm good to go. My finances has no room for errors that will cost money, so I figure it's smart to check with the more experienced members of the group. The answer to this question as well as anything else significant you think I need to know to ensure a correct install would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, GW

My understanding is that the more powerful your build (formula1 or nascar) the more important bellhousing alignment is. I have never run a dial on any of my truck engines and bellhousings to see if they are aligned perfectly, and they have always worked just fine. You will be alright unless your engine to bellhousing bolts and your motor mounts and bellhousing mounts are all loose and backed out.

The only stovebolt engine-to-bellhousing concerns were when a Hydramatic transmission was installed. Then the adapter ring for the hydro had to be dial-indicated to get perfect alignment with the crankshaft centerline. Stick shift transmissions, including the T-5 are a bit more forgiving of a little misalignment. Jerry

My website post shows a complete T5 installation, including how to use a dial indicator to check flywheel runout and bell alignment. LINK HERE. I agree that the T5 will tolerate more variance.

Interestingly, I recently removed a 1963 3speed MT from a bell and there were very thin original looking shims at the bottom 2 bolts of the MT/bell.

Depends on what misalignment you are speaking of. There is perpendicularity, parallelism, runout, etc. All those are built into the motor, bell housing and tranny mating surfaces and bores, with some tolerance. The clearance in the mounting holes on the parts will allow splines and a pilot diameter or two to engage. (Sometimes there are guide pins).
If there are no burrs, stick ups, damage, cracks or warpage, torque to spec and you are good to go. Just be sure surfaces are mated evenly with star pattern or cross torqueing.

Edit: Just looked at Lugnutz web page. Very nicely done and very informative. Use his info if it conflicts with mine.