The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop PCV valve and whole distributor HEI

Has anyone had any bad experience using a pcv valve in a 235? Rplacing the down draft tube. I will make a hold down for the grommet and black silicone it in. I thot I would run a 3/8 brake line fitting from the side of the intake above the heat riser --the 1/2 inch vaccuum port. Connection then to a 3/8 hose.


Also has anyone installed a large cap HEI replacement distributor on a 235? Any probs?

Assume you have seen this:

http://devestechnet.com/Home/PCVInstall

Many of us have done a variation on this install with success. Modify the draft tube to hold the PCV higher helps illuminate liquid oil( droplets) from being sucked in the system.

There are several other posts on the topic with pictures.

Adding a PCV is a great mod for a Stovebolt engine. It not only pulls more crankcase gases out than the road draft tube at idle and slow speeds it also reburns them which is a win/win for the engine and environment. Connecting to the vacuum port on the intake manifold is where you want to get your constant vacuum source.

Depending upon the condition of the engines bottom end, mounting the PCV in place of the road draft tube may cause it to suck up too much oil, as my old 216 did. Leaving the road draft tube installed and mounting the PCV at the top by cutting off the down tube portion alleviates this problem. If the engine is a somewhat fresh rebuild it may work fine to mount the PCV in place of the road draft tube.

re. HEI dist. another great mod to do to these engines. The OEM is not a direct drop in fit as it has to be modified to work. The mounting flange needs to be machined off but it's very doable. The large coil cap will clear. Only problem is some folks don't like the look of that large coil cap. It doesn't bother me LOL.
Theres several aftermarket providers that carry a small or mini HEI distributor already setup thats ready to drop in and go. Another enterprising fellow has a kit that modifies the OEM point dist and coil to accept a GM OEM electronic sensor with an external controller so theres several ways to get OEM type electronic ign.

Good luck
Dave

V, S, --If I modify the roadtube, do I cut it off and cap --thus eliminating the hold down bolt ---just a press in fit then?


I have already eliminated the top valve cover vent holes and am using a 58 vented/filtered oil cap.


For the HEI, I am looking at the direct fit -- A performance.

For the HEI, please avoid the ones made in China (sometimes called the big ugly blue ones or big ugly red ones). They will work but the one I have has developed a bad habit of drawing oil up the shaft and depositing it in the dist body (where it eventually pours out the cap). A Performance sells them along with several other sellers on eBay, Amazon, elsewhere. Look at the reviews on Amazon. Seems many had the oil problem.

The one I bought from Tom Langdon is a much better product and replacement parts are available at auto parts stores.

Numbers (42465967), You want to leave the entire body of the road draft tube intact as it will retain it's ability to deflect the oil back into the crankcase and only allow the gases to escape as is it's design. Course some oil does make it's way out but it's minimal.
You want to cut the actual down tube portion. Measure out to the point where it makes the 90 degree turn down and cut the tube just back from that bend. You want as straight a cut as possible inorder for the rubber grommet and PCV to seal.
Heres the best pic I have of my 216 setup. I originally tried to mount the PCV inplace of the road draft tube but the engine is so warn that it sucked way too much oil back to the intake so reinstalled the road draft tube after cutting off the down tube and reinstalled the PCV in it. I had to add the strap to hold it in as I was going to find a better fitting PCV to fit the grommet. I never got around to it LOL.... Drill the grommet correctly and theres no need for a strap LOL.
Good luck
Dave

Pic attached

Thanks for the pics guys and ideas. I have a v-237 pcv valve coming - tks Showkey. I cut the tube as V instructed. The tube is about 1.125" id. The grommet wants 1.00" id with lip. So I migged a 10 ga plate --washer like to the end of the tube an 1/8" bigger than the tube with inside lip -- no clamp needed on the grommet. 12 ga would work also or find a washer 1" id.

I want this engine sealed as they tend to sit longer than normal and why suck in all the soy bean dust and dirt around here.. Also I like oem appearance but am not a purist. Disc brakes, HEI of sorts and 12v are all ok with me on any rig.

Question regarding installing a PVC valve. I have a 55-235 in a 49-3100. I have electric wipers so I don't use vacuum for that, but I have vacuum assist disc brakes. Can I still install a PVC valve?

Yes- - - -with the proper PCV valve there should still be plenty of vacuum to support the brakes. You might want to consider installing a vacuum reservoir made from a paintball gun CO2 tank or something similar. I've even used a piece of PCV drain pipe with a couple of caps glued onto it, hidden inside a frame rail as a vacuum reserve. One a couple of feet long fits nicely under the cab. Paint it black and it virtually disappears.
Jerry

Many Chryslers built in the 1960s, '70s had power brake booster tanks about the size of a big toaster, $5 JY item.

Poly Chloride Vinyl for that reservoir Jerry?
DG doesn't post much these days, so I need someone else to pick on.:)
Carl