I'm installing power door locks and windows in a '53 3100. I bought the stainless steel flexible hose (conduit) type wire loom for the door jam, but upon further inspection, it doesn't look like it a viable option. Can anyone share what they did for their truck to gets wires to the door through the jam? Thanks in advance.
Most of the doors i've messed with that had power windows and/or locks use a rubber boot between the door and the body. I hooked up power windows temporarily by running the wires from the cab to an existing hole in the door near the hinges. it is obvious that I'm not finished with it tho.
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Use a piece of heater hose to connect a couple of holes, one drilled in the door jamb and another in the door itself. A hole saw the right size to make the hose a snug fit makes the installation pretty simple. Jerry
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In later A-D panel-body trucks (maybe 48/49) with rear doors, a solution similar to the metal-coil & hole near the hinge is what the factory used to route a wire into the rear-light-housing mounted on one of the rear doors.
Prior to that (maybe up to 1948/49), two metal mating-contacts were used on the door and the cab frame. Contact/light-on was made only when the door was closed, and, no-contact/no-light when the door was open.
The basic idea, also used in Tim's rear door metal coil example, is to have the jamb end fastened and the door end sliding/floating in and out of a hole/sleeve in door. As far as Tim's mention of coil. I have had several TF barn door suburbans and panel trucks, I have used the old fashioned tubing benders, which are still available, as a loom. They would be pretty noisy to use on cab doors. There are some tail light looms that could work. I searched door popper, electric window and lock, aftermarket companies.
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Here/attached-below is the factory/original conduit (it looks like a spring) from the body to a rear door on my 1954 Suburban.
The conduit wire/coil/spring-like-tube is thick, but the conduit bends somewhat easily. You will see a rubber grommet in the body and in the door. The conduit in held in place inside the door, and slides into the body when the door is closed.
"Universal 12" Door Loom (AUTDLOOMBL) by AutoLoc®. 1 Pair Hide Those Wires! Autoloc’s Billet Door Loom Kits hide those unsightly wires that run through your vehicle. Ideal for door jams, trunks, hoods, or anywhere you need to run wires that are visible. The Billet Door Loom includes a pair of heavy-duty 3/8 ID teflon lined stainless steel braided hoses, jam nuts and billet aluminum hardware that resists rust for a lifetime of beauty."
...and a pretty reasonable price. $34.42 a pair on Amazon, free ship.
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Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Thanks everyone. I ordered a pair of jam wire looms from Specialty Power Windows, which is the power window setup I'm using. Their loom is like a spring which I think will offer the added flexibility needed since the door hinge doesn't create typical symmetrical hinged opening. I'll post pics when installed.
Here's a follow up. Installed the "spring" wire looms and work good. Only negative is you hear the spring rubbing on the collars each time you move the door.
