The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Dropping the crankshaft to replace rope seal

I've removed the rear cap completely and loosened and dropped all the other caps 1/2". Clutch is fully depressed, but I can't get the crank to budge one bit.
Starter shouldn't interfere if not engaged, so what's left? My next step is to loosen off the pressure plate, maybe clutch is the culprit? Any other ideas? Thought this would be simple.

Pistons need to come down with the crank, friction of rings in the bore, also the crank bearings are a close fit and need a little wiggle. I assume your working on a straight six. If it's a V8 the timing chain needs to be removed.

Some folks have been able to work the upper rope seal out then use a tool called a sneaky Pete to squeeze the new one back in. If that won';t work for you, you're going to have to move the entire transmission back atleast 3/4" inorder for the tranny's pilot shaft to pull out of the pilot bearing as well as some other procedures.
This Link shows the procedure to replace the bearings in-vehicle which is the same basic principle for dropping the crank to replace the seal.

I would be careful how much the front of the crank drops. You don't want to have the timing gear slip a tooth. I have replaced the seal with the engine in place on two vehicles but I pulled the transmission back. I also adjust main bearing shims to get down to the minimum clearance.

You should be able to make the crank drop 1/8" or so by prying on opposite sides of the flywheel ring gear, which is plenty to replace the rope seal. I usually back the main bearing bolts off about 2 turns- - - -can't imagine why it would be necessary to drop the other main caps 1/2"!
Jerry

I have replaced a lot of rope seals with the Lisle Sneaky Pete. The trick to replacing the seals is trimming and packing the rope correctly and make sure you don't have a thread between the cap and the block.