The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help! Engine no start

So I have this 1951 5-window 3100 and I put a used 327 V-8 in it, been running ok since last year, but always hard to start.

Last week, I finally got the wiring done enough that it was legal to drive on the street. Took it for a few quick trips. Almost home, the engine died suddenly. Turns out the HEI distributor had failed, I bought a new one, swapped it out a few days ago and was back up and running again.

Today, went to start the truck, it sputtered a couple times when I first cranked it over, but didn't start. This has been typical, usually I put a little starter fluid or some gas down the carb, and it fires with a roar! Not this time. I checked for spark with a spark testing tool and a timing light. Gas in the line and gas poured into the carb. When I timed it with the new distributor I had it right on the mark at 8 degrees BTDC. I haven't checked it again but I can visually see that the distributor hasn't moved physically. I don't have a compression tester but planning to buy one. I figure the compression must be at least okay, it's been running well in the past. Also pulled the #1 spark plug, it had some carbon but not bad, I cleaned it up and put it back in. It was dry.

So I know, for a motor to run:

Fuel
Air
Spark
Ignition Timing
Compression

I'm looking for out-of-the-box ideas because I have covered the basics and can't get it to fire up.

Timing chain jumped? Pull #1 spark plug. With a helper bump the starter til your finger is blown off the empty spark plug hole. You will be at TDC. Remove the dust cap and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire. If not, the chain probably jumped or you missed the set up when you replaced the distributor. Good luck.🛠

If the spark plug was dry then I would shoot more either in her, at this point I would focus on spark and fuel, you know it's getting air, compression and timing probably did not change.

Ether is not your friend on a gas engine. Use a water bottle with some gas in it but don’t hold it over the carb while cranking. Backfires mean Molotov cocktail. 🛠

You "checked for spark" but didn't say if you got spark or not. You need to slow down. Tell us what you found for spark. Tell us if you see gas squirting down carb throat. People say they did all the necessary "tests" and then ask what to do. First thing is: you missed something basic. If you did not get spark why test compression? You need to advise what the test results are, not that you tested. Need clear explanations from you not thinking outside the box. Stay inside the box. It's just a standard no start situation. We/you will find it pretty soon. Stay engaged with us.

Kind of strange it ran, then stopped, then changed HEI, then ran, then stopped. Just stay with spark and fuel for now. If you see spark and you see fuel, let us know.
Spark tester? No No no. Look at the plug gap for spark. Good bright snappy spark. White, yellow, blue, does not matter. It will light gas vapor.

What does sputtered mean?
Fired/tried to run
Backfired thru carb
No fire at all
Popped somewhere
Backfire thru tail pipe

I am focusing on the HEI was good, then no good, then replaced, then good, then no start. Something there is fishy. Should not have had to re-time it really. Are you using new HEI's or old one's from a stash? Check to see that the hot wire to HEI has voltage when cranking motor. Pull it off of the HEI connector blade and check it.

I believe compression may be a reason it is difficult to start, but it is not the reason it isn't starting, it's a contributing factor.

As for "sputtering" it's fairly simple: one, maybe two or three, cylinders fired, and that was it. It didn't backfire through the carb or tail pipe. It was your #2, fired/tried to run. This is typical for this engine. Usual scenario is it will fire and run rough, then die. Then, difficult to start. Spray ether/starting fuel in the carb. Turn engine over and usually fires right up, but runs rough until warm. This time was different, in that it didn't fire after spraying ether in the carb.

As for your other questions, the original HEI was old. It was replaced with a brand new one. Timing was checked as matter of course in dealing with a new distributor.

I went back to square one and removed #1 spark plug. I got close to TDC and took the cap off. It was probably not TDC because the rotor was in the 11:00 position. I continued to click through the starter until I got the rotor at 5:30 position (i.e. pointing at the #1 wire on the cap) and yes, the mark on the balancer was near (but not on) the TDC mark. I loosened the distributor and rotated it to a position that looked to be more in line with the rotor. Essentially, I retarded it. I placed the cap back on, replaced the wires, and it "sputtered." Meaning, it fired but was really weak. More of a burble than a pop. I rotated the distributor counter clockwise (i.e. advancing it) and tried again. This time it burbled a little bit more. I rotated the cap a slight bit more, and was able to get it to fire up. It took about 15 seconds with the starter going and it trying to catch. I ran it at about 2,000 rpm for the first minute to get it going and warm, and watched to make sure the choke was warming up and coming off. I got out the timing light again and checked to adjust the timing again.

Basically, I don't know what happened. I don't know why it wouldn't start, and I don't know if there was any particular thing I did that made it happy again. I'm just glad that it isn't a jumped timing chain. I suspect that possible the timing tab isn't exactly perfect, so there might be a little bit of trial and error there. I think I will continue to tinker with the timing if I encounter this issue again. I would certainly like to get deeper into the starting issues with respect to it being a cold hearted beast. Runs great when warm. Perhaps it's low compression, as I have tinkered with the choke and it now closes properly and I don't think that's the main issue. But perhaps it could be a carb issue considering the usual MO is to spray starting fluid in the carb to get it going.

If you suspect the timing tab is inaccurate, the first item of business is to check it. Make a "positive stop" device from an old spark plug shell and a bolt, install it into the #1 or #6 cylinder, and and slowly rotate the engine until the piston touches the stop bolt. Mark the damper at the zero point on the tab. Rotate the other way until the stop is reached. Mark again. TDC will be exactly halfway between the two marks. Now, with a known accurate TDC mark, you can set the timing properly. Just like the slogan on Sun Electric Co. machines used to say- - - -"We Test- - - -Not Guess!"
Jerry

This is a really great idea! I'm not clear on how to make the positive stop device with a bolt and spark plug as you mention, but it is worth looking into. I hazard a guess here that you move the engine slowly by hand here so as to not damage the engine, correct? I know that pulling all the spark plugs would make it easier to turn the engine by hand. On the other hand, I don't think the timing mark is far off, if it is off at all, so perhaps it's just as good to tune it by feel to get it to it's best performing spot, and easiest starting.

Ugh! So I had it running yesterday, today I go out to start it (I really do want to drive it somewhere) and it starts and runs for 15 seconds with my foot on half throttle. After that, it won't start again!

Quote " I rotated the cap a slight bit more, and was able to get it to fire up. It took about 15 seconds with the starter going and it trying to catch." End quote

A couple of times you have alluded to "maybe its low compression".

The described symptom above, while it can be many things, is a classic example of trying to start an engine with low compression. Also, an engine with low compression will take longer to warm to normal temperature, and may need to be run at a high idle for an extended period to warm. A compression test may (or may not) prove interesting. But once and for all a compression test would confirm/deny good compression.

Jerry's method of finding TDC is a tried and true method. Basically, you put an engine stop in the spark plug hole of number one cylinder (the bolt). It needs to protrude in the cylinder lower than the top of the piston. Then, as you assumed, slowly, turn the engine by hand, not with the starter clockwise until it contacts the bolt and make your mark. Now, reverse the direction of the rotation of the engine turning slowly until the engine stops. Make your second mark. As Jerry stated, TDC will be exactly half way between the two marks. If mathematics is your forte, you are approaching a limit from opposite directions.

If you really wanted to prove this, after the first two tests/marks, you could reposition the stop higher in the cylinder, rerun the tests, and the two marks would be closer together. Continuing to reposition the stop slightly higher would eventually have the two marks adjacent to each other (the exact midpoint from the first two tests).

Stay with it.

Jon.

I'm really digging this site right about now! Great info!

Jon (Carbking) I really liked your response. In all my years of troubleshooting I've found that quite typically it's two or three small issues that alone might not be the deciding factor but combined with another issue can put you in an out of service situation. I asked my local shop to borrow their compression tester, tomorrow I'll hopefully get it and get a chance to check it out, though I won't likely get too far until Monday next week as I will need to leave for work and will be working out of town over the weekend. This 327 I received used, and the previous owner said it was out of a '67 or '68 Camaro, and the casting number confirms this though the heads are a mid-70's low compression type. The engine, when running, has that lumpy cam typical of a 275-350 horse 327 motor, but I have noticed some odd characteristics, such as easy to turn over, occasionally dies after revving, rough running when cold. Back in the late 80's I had a 350 in my Chevelle and when I rebuilt it I used 10.5:1 forged pistons and small-chamber 57cc heads. That motor was so tight it broke 3 starters before I could get it broken in.

Only thing I'm getting stuck on is how to create this engine stop to place in the #1 hole. I figure I can make something but I'm not sure where to start. If I can purchase something I'd be willing to do that as well.

This may sound stupid, but are you using your choke when trying to start it cold? I have to and then let it run a few minutes at 3/4 choke before backing it off.

Correct me if I am wrong. My grandfather told me that when cold on low compression engines if you use choke, it helps engine pull fuel in due to low compression. Once running, you can back it off. I remember watching grandpa put his hand over the carb when starting engines and the taking it off once it fired.

Thoughts?

Chris

It's a good question Chris, and I say yes, the choke is on. I was having trouble starting it recently and it was mentioned to me in a message by a mechanic friend to check the choke. Well yes, the choke was closed, but not fully, so I loosened the screws on the choke element and rotated it so the choke is now fully closed. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I had it running yesterday after some fiddling, and I watched to make certain the choke opened properly as it warmed up, which it did. I also double-checked with my multimeter to make sure the element was getting 12v, and it was. I can't entirely rule out carburetor issues with this hard starting issue, but I can say that when I was driving the truck it didn't show any issues related to carburation or lack of fuel. If anything, it seemed smelly in the cab, gas smell, but it's difficult to say if that's a rich carb, or the fact that the fuel tank in a 51 Chevy is in the cab behind the seat. Or, for that matter, the exhaust smell, which is because the exhaust is currently cut just after the mufflers as I need to take it to a muffler shop to get new pipes installed to the rear of the truck.

Compression testers are fairly cheap. It would be good to have one of your own. TDC indicator tools are also reasonably cheap if your not comfortable making one.

The engine stop device is really quite easy.

Using a thread pitch gauge and a micrometer, determine the thread and pitch of your spark plug.

If you don't have a thread pitch gauge and micrometer (you should), get the spark plug number of the spark plug you are using and use Google (or your favorite search engine) for a spark plug thread pitch chart.

Once you know the thread and pitch, then a trip to your FLAPS for a bolt of the correct thread and pitch. The bolt should have sufficient thread to extend about an inch further than the spark plug into the cylinder.

I think what Jerry was referring to with the spark plug shell, was to remove the complete electrode assembly from a defective spark plug, drill out and thread the center for a bolt to replace the electrode. Then you don't have to worry about the thread size and pitch, as you are using an old (modified) spark plug.

Martin - there probably is such a thread here somewhere, but a thread on "essential" (other than pliers and screwdriver ) tools for the enthusiast might be useful.

Jon.

Jon, not a bad idea. Maybe one of our retired mechanics could put together such a list and we could get it to the Tech Tip Editor.

I will do my best to explain what I know, so someone might offer help:

1. 1951 Chev 5-window purchased in 2016 with no engine. Last had a 327 when it was last titled in 1987.
2. 327 acquired on trade in July 2016, Craigslist. Complete tall block, minus intake, carb, distributor, spark plugs, wires. Used, unknown mileage, but clean.
3. Engine installed and RUNNING September 2016. Truck was a basket case needed rest of running gear and wiring installed.
4. Summer project 2018 completed wiring (almost - new gauges not in yet) 3 weeks ago. Was "driveable" i.e. could move on it's own around property since spring 2017. First legal drive (title, insurance, lights, brakes, etc.) two weeks ago.
5. Third legal, streetable drive ended when distributor failed. Verified with 12v at lead wire into HEI, but no spark at the plugs.
6. Ordered new and replaced distributor. Truck fired up and ran great. I set timing to make certain it was not too far off what normal should be, 8 degrees BTDC. Set timing at just that, 8*BTDC.
7. Took it for a short drive to make certain it was running and driving okay.
8. In it's past, short history with me, it has been cold blooded. Meaning, in plain English, it's been difficult to start when cold. Like, not getting fuel. Carb was rebuilt at a shop in August 2017. Carb shows no symptoms of having any issues, except as noted the electric choke wasn't closing completely when cold. Adjusted choke mechanism so that it is completely closed now when cold. "Not getting fuel" was always remedied in the past by splashing a little gasoline in the carb or by starting fluid. Always started immediately when doing this. Typically would run rough until warm. Not sure why, but thinking this could be a clue.
9. Next day (Wednesday) after new distributor, truck "sputtered." The usual shot with starting fluid didn't work. Tested for spark - HAVE SPARK. Checked plugs - good, but dry. Added some gas direct into carb. Still no fire. Created this thread, asking for ideas. Got some confirmation and ideas from helpful Stovebolters. Revisited that evening and was able to get the engine running again. Ran for about 10 minutes. Didn't drive (blocked in by wife's car).
10. Next day, groundhog's day (Thursday). Turned over engine and with foot at half throttle cold-blooded engine was running, but letting off on the throttle it gradually continued to mis-fire, then die (this was a timeline of start to stall about 15-20 seconds). Would not start again. Would not fire, "sputter" or show any signs that it might start again. Starting fluid - no luck. A tired battery might be an issue. Bought another battery. Still, wouldn't fire up.
11. Borrowed compression tester from my mechanic friend (yes, I'll buy one eventually, but I've been throwing a lot of money at this truck recently trying to get her on the street). I travel for work, and am gone today, Saturday and Sunday, so will run compression test on Monday and start troubleshooting again. Today, in our brief discussion, he asked if the carb is squirting gas when the throttle is depressed. I will check that.
12. I will post pictures and video shortly, some stuff from a couple weeks ago. As I get a full day working on the truck on Monday, will take follow up photos and video as needed.

Video link, first time I had the engine installed and running in my '51, her name is Mabel. This is September, 2016, and my friend Roy (not my mechanic friend I was referring to in earlier posts) is tuning the carburetor, which is an Edelbrock 1406, just like this one:

Ebay Edelbrock 1406[/url]https://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Remanufactured-Carburetor-600-CFM-Electric-Choke-1406/263701920662?epid=516060368&hash=item3d65dbfb96:g:O2sAAOSwstxVVm~5&vxp=mtr

This video was taken September 3, as I was getting closer with the wiring for the truck. Shows a walk-around to the rear of the truck as I had just finished the tail light wiring. At the beginning you can see the engine as it sits now, idling good as of a month ago. Still, doesn't help with the current problem I'm having, but I hope visuals will help.

Hey Justhorsenround, I was revisiting what guys said here to help and your comment struck me; what do you mean ether is not your friend on a gas engine? Do you mean it can damage it? Or do you simply mean it's dangerous because it is so flammable?

Simple answer is yes. Ether will wash down the cylinder walls and cause low/no compression. It is very volatile and if buildup happens and you get a spark it can/will blow the top out of a piston. Do people use it? Yes. Do they have success? Yes. Are they working on borrowed time? Probably. JMO

I just noticed you are using a Edlebrock 1406. I've had 2 of those go bad after a year or so. Don't know why, I'm an inpatient guy so I just swapped them out. Replaced with Holley and problems went away.

BTW, bartamos is quite helpful but can come off a bit abrasive if he feels the poster is not following his advise to the letter. He really is a good guy!

I will have to second (or third) the ether issue, unless you are trying to start a cold diesel engine on the north slope, there is no need for ether. And no need whatsoever anywhere for a gasoline engine. If it won't fire on gas, it ain't gonna fire. Which by the way is where those huge 503 GMCs came from, gas engines started more reliably in cold weather. Which was important in the fire trucks. We had a diesel forklift up in alaska when I went up one spring it had quit. It wouldn't start well during the winter, so they shot it with ether every time they started it. I don't recall exactly what it did to it, other than it blew one of the liners down into the block quite a bit, blew the head gasket, and broke the top ring lands on a couple of pistons. They were pretty sheepish when I showed them how to turn the key back to turn on the glow plugs.....

Thanks for that response, I don't have the can in front of me but it's the O'Reilly's brand "starting fluid." I haven't read the ingredients but based on your response I'm assuming this is ether. I bought two cans a couple months ago as it was easier than pouring gas in (though I have a little 4oz shampoo bottle I use to squirt in gas). My friend Roy who was in the first video swears by Holley, and I had a Holley in my Chevelle back in the 80's-90's that worked flawlessly. This is a change that is likely coming, but I'd like to try and figure this out without such a wholesale changeover like that.

As per concerning Bartamos, he hasn't asked any specific question I haven't answered, has only complained about my responses, and has offered no ideas. I might follow his advice should he offer some, but so far making cracks about my friend the mechanic does nothing but [censored] me off. I have so many questions on so many topics and so far this site has been great. My first post was a wiring question and I had a response from a guy that felt I was worth helping because I came back to the post with updates.

As a betting man, I would bet that you are battling more than one issue at the same time. This is the most challenging scenario for anyone who knows exactly what they are doing even if they have the vehicle right in front of them. It is near impossible to walk someone through the troubleshooting procedure for simultaneous problems over the Wild, Wild, World of Web. Thus yours and bartamos' kerfuffle. BTW I am with Martin's opinion of bartamos, but I also understand your frustration with your vehicle.
I will not opine on personalities, but will offer my opinion on how you should proceed.
1) Drink one ice cold beer of your choice (repeat as needed). Calm nerves are needed for clear, constructive thinking.
2) As Hotrod Lincoln often suggests, test, don't guess.
3) Test each of the following individually until you can rule them out as the cause of the problems.
-Compression.
-Spark at the plugs at the right time.
- Fuel delivery to the carburetor, and proper air fuel mixture delivered to the cylinders.
If you need assistance as to how to diagnose each of these three items, ask away.
Carl

A different opinion on starting fluid:

I personally have been using starting fluid for about 60 years, on gasoline engines only, from small 1-cylinder weed-eaters to my 450 HP GTO.

To date, ZERO problems.

I have found that engines that have been sitting for a couple of months that absolutely will not start on stale fuel, will start and then run (albeit not really well until hot) to burn out the stale fuel. I also have not had to replace a starting motor on ANY of these engines (due to excess cranking) in that 60 year period.

So, am I recommending starting fluid to everyone, NO, I am not. The above is personal experience only, not professional advice. But I will continue to use it.

And, no offense meant to you, but your choice of carburetor will prohibit me from offering any additional advice in this thread. Hope you find your answers.

Jon.

Here's how to make the piston stop device.

File, grind, or machine the rolled-over area of an old spark plug away so the porcelain can be punched out.

Then tap a 3/8-16 thread into the plug shell and insert a piece of 3/8" all thread long enough to touch the top of the piston when it's a few degrees away from TDC.

Use a jam nut to position the threaded rod for the best depth. If you're doing this on a stovebolt six, it's necessary to put a bend into the all thread to make it touch the piston because the angle of the plug thread and the cylinder don't play well together.

Yes, turn the engine by hand, or use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth to gently move the piston against the stop.

I've been using that method of finding TDC on race engines for over 40 years.

Jerry

Livemeyer, your truck looks good and the 327 and headers look like they fit with the stock steering assembly. Do you know if the driver's side manifold was modified at all to fit between the steering gear? I'm just curious because it seems like getting a V8 into the engine bay with stock steering always comes down to that pinch point. Folks have mentioned using a passenger side late 60's camaro manifold on the driver's or a ram's head manifold side since they are narrow with the outlet is shifted more forward.
Apologies for this not helping with your no-start situation, but your engine bay looked good and I wondered how the V8 fit so cleanly.
mark

Hiya folks,

your friendly volunteer Engine Shop Moderator Woogeroo here.

If you wish to disagree with people, or flat out argue a point, that is fine.

However, the founders and owners of this site have made it clear since it's inception that they wish it to remain polite and civil. Being a smart aleck, and using unnecessary snarky comments are not required to make a point one way or the other. Also, let us ALL keep in mind that there is no font that shows sarcasm or 'tone of voice' so it is very easy to misconstrue things in writing. I'm as guilty of it as anyone else, so I'm not pointing fingers here.

Use facts or even your experience... and explain your position WITHOUT lots of !!! and what not. Maybe that is the way you do it and have done it for 30+ years and it works great for you... maybe the other person isn't fully understanding where you are coming from? This forum is for questions and answers, Q&A. I can't count how many times I had to ask the same question 5 times, because I either did not understand a term or the question I was being asked about, to check something on my truck, but I would just keep asking and explaining and maybe sharing photos... eventually we'd all be 'on the same page' and I would find out what I needed to do or have done.

Sandbox rules apply, so lets everyone have a wonderful time on the 'bolt.

Anyway, happy wrenching everyone...

-Woogeroo

Hey, no problem, I'm happy to answer questions. When the truck came to me, it had a modified steering rack. The frame has a 3" piece of flat iron welded to it with holes to mount the steering column. The whole thing shifts the steering column over a couple inches and the firewall has been butchered too, it's enlarged. I intend to get this all repaired, but at the current time was trying to just get the truck in running and driving condition so I stayed with what was there. I'm not sure if the whole steering column is stock or not, It originally had a steering wheel on it from a ~ 1963-1965 Impala. As a matter of fact, I think a lot of the mods on this truck, stemming from the 80's, were from a 1964 or 65 Impala.

Anyway, in the one video you see headers, chrome, cheap ones I bought on eBay, they didn't fit so well (I had to trim a bit from the passenger frame rail to fit) and they were melting my spark plug wires and anything else they touched (starter wires, my hands, etc.) so I swapped over to a ram's horn-style exhaust manifold. It fits really well.

My intention was/is to get the truck in a drivable condition so I could take it to a shop and get a Mustang II or some other IFS setup done. Not sure if I can do all the steering work I want done at the same time or if that's a whole separate operation. It really needs power steering. I'm a novice as far as steering and suspension systems goes.

Hey guys, it's Monday, and, as I promised, an update:

It's pouring rain today (Seattle, go figure) so I wasn't excited to work on the truck but I did some stuff. I tried to start it, it fired a couple weak fires and then nothing. Tried putting some gas down the carb. No luck.

I began the compression tests at the #6 cylinder. Why? It was easy to get to. I opened up 6, 4, and 2. All showed compression between 120 and 130. I also did 1 and 3, same thing, 120-130. The right bank with 6, 4, and 2 all had very wet cylinders. I cleaned the plugs with a wire wheel and reinstalled. The left bank with 1 and 3 were drier, but not dry.

The truck behaved oddly when turning over. It would turn slowly, then sometimes pick up speed, sometimes not. I had voltage at 13.25 or better as I was jump starting it from another of my running vehicles. After a long, long time, a large number of start attempts, it began to come alive. With my son in the cab hitting the starter, I was using spray starting fluid, but I noticed that open throttle it would start to fire. I kept pumping at it while he kept at the starter and eventually got it going again. I kept throttle open, it ran rough for the first few minutes and eventually smoothed out. I eventually got it warmed up enough to idle, checked timing (because I had moved it some).

BUT... when I put it in reverse to back out, it died. Then, it wouldn't crank over but maybe a couple times. I had disconnected the jumper cables because I was going to test drive it.

So... could it possibly run if the timing was 180 degrees out? Would the timing mark show with a timing gun correctly if it was 180 out? Wouldn't it exhibit backfiring if it was 180 out? My mechanic friend, his name is Eric, recommends I go through the timing process again. I'll do this tomorrow, as it's dark and rainy here today.

Would it be worth it to just move the distributor 180 and test again?

Go back and reread my very first post to this thread, before you pull the distributor.🛠

Earlier I suggested to diagnose three things, one at a time.
1) Compression. (You now have confirmed adequate compression.)

Now on to what's next on the list.

2) Spark at the right time. Get the engine at TDC #1 cylinder. Pull distributor cap to see if the rotor is pointing toward the #1 spark plug wire post on the cap. If it is off by more than what you can turn the distributor to correct, the distributor may have been installed one tooth off.

Last on the list is #3, the carburetor. It is last because, "its never the carburetor". Don't go there until you have verified #1 and #2 are correct.

Thanks 52Carl. I was under the impression that the distributor can only go in two ways? Proper and 180 out? If that's not the case then I'm probably off a tooth, like you say. I didn't realize this could be. I am headed out there to troubleshoot again, will update later today...

Update: I removed distributor and got my daughter to turn the engine over, blew my finger off the hole so that’s TDC. Put mark on exactly 0 TDC and reinstalled distributor. Alignment put the rotor at 4:00 not 5:00. Wouldn’t start. Moved the distributor a tooth over and it started. Let it run and smooth out. Took it for a drive, went to a body shop 4 miles away I have been planning to go to for a week. Left it running for 10 minutes while talking to the owner. When we said our goodbyes I put it in drive and it died. Idle is set high so I don’t know why it would do this. Tried to start but it resists. Doesn’t want to turn. Vapor lock? Don’t think so. Took cap off and starter turns ok. Totally mystified right now. Put cap back on and it won’t crank. I must have a bad distributor. Could it be overheating? I don’t have a temp gauge hooked up yet (but the speedo is now working!). Strong gas smell when driving.

Another, small update. So the truck dies I'm at the body shop. Called AAA and a flatbed came out to tow me home. Discussed issue with tow driver (he was curious) and showed him by turning the truck over. Well, it turned over, and started. But, as it was running, it gradually would lose idle RPMs. Eventually it died again. Towed it home...

Incorrectly timed engine will run/idle just fine, but it can run real hot, causing starting issues.
You need to set the timing with a timing light. Do you have the correct timing mark tab? If you don't, you need to make it so.
Do that before you move on to the fuel delivery system (fuel pump/carburetor).
As I stated earlier, I believe that you are chasing two separate issues. You need to make sure the timing is properly set before you proceed any further.
Is is a challenge to avoid jumping ahead looking for the mysterious gremlin, but it will only cause you more frustration if you don't stick to the plan.

I wholeheartedly agree with you, I'm thinking I'm chasing more than one gremlin, and I do think it's possible that timing is off, but so far the "off" timing is the only timing that has allowed it to run. When I got it running today it was set slightly advanced, 10 or 12 degrees BTDC, I left it that way. Each day has been similar, try to get it started, try to make certain it is in time, checking for TDC, rotor pointed at #1, etc. This isn't my first go around with this stuff so it's frustrating when "normal " doesn't work but "abnormal" does, and is it really that "abnormal" is working but isn't quite right or is it that "abnormal" is really "normal" and there's a problem somewhere else. Ahhh, I dunno, I'm just really frustrated at this point.

Here's 5 photos I took today. I had my daughter hit the starter until my finger blew off #1. Mark stopped at about 10 degrees BTDC. I used my breaker bar on the harmonic balancer and rotated the engine further to get the mark right at TDC, 0 on the tab. I dropped in the new, red distributor, and you can see the rotor fell to 4:00 position, definitely not hitting where #1 spark plug wire would be sitting in cap. I pulled new distributor out and for kicks put old one in, and IT aligned closer to 5:00 than 4:00. (Picture 3) Then I put in new distributor again and it aligned closer to 5:00, like picture #3 old distributor with orange rotor (picture 4). I put cap back on and took picture 5 for reference. Now, let me say this: If timing is supposed to fire at 8BTDC to #1, and current timing is set so rotor is behind #1 (i.e.hasn't arrived yet to fire #1) then it is out of time and it is LATE. And sure enough, it wouldn't start.

So... what to do? I lifted the distributor and moved the rotor forward (clockwise). It was pointing at 6:00, or slightly past the #1 spark plug wire in the cap. This makes sense to me. TDC should be after the firing to #1 and thus the rotor should be slightly past #1. Sure enough, I cranked the engine over and she fired right up. She ran fine, I drove a couple miles away, left her running for over 15 minutes, but sitting at a stoplight in drive with brake on I noticed a decrease in RPMs like she was gonna die. Sure enough, after idling at the shop for 10 minutes, I put her in drive and she died. And, of course, didn't want to turn over, but a half hour later just as the tow truck arrived, she turned over fine and started.