I have not driven it yet. It is on a restored "rolling chassis". All I have done (on blocks) is started/run the rebuilt 235 and put fluid in the transmission with the engine running and the transmission engaged.
Today the 53 got a complete service which also included all new ignition components. The solid lifters were adjusted, carb mixture set and ignition lead checked. I have been running non alcohol added fuels since the restoration and it really starts and drives so much better IMHO.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Where did you buy your LED lights and what type? 6 or 12 volt? Individual bulbs or did you go with the type that looks like a card with 8-10 small LEDs embedded in it? Did you have to make any other changes or was it a “plug-n-play”? Did they make a big difference? Are you happy with the outcome?
I’ve been wanting to do the very same thing. My 6V lights are dangerously dim at night.
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Let’s take this LED discussion over to the Electrical Bay where there is already a thread ongoing. Thanks
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
I removed the bed from my 56 project truck . I’m replacing the entire bed with a Mar-K replacement. It took me a good 5 hours to do it. May, that’s a lot of bolts!
I have not driven it yet. It is on a restored "rolling chassis". All I have done (on blocks) is started/run the rebuilt 235 and put fluid in the transmission with the engine running and the transmission engaged.
Please post driving reports. Thanks
Tim, got the engine timed good. The Hydra-Matic shifts good shifting up and down. That should ease your mind somewhat. I have only gotten a few miles total test driving. Will see if I can get the front clip on this week and get a better test drive on more open road vs just around the burbs.
1954 Chevy 3104 3 Window Hydra-Matic in my family for over 60 Years
Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right... "Scarlet Begonias" Grateful Dead 1974
What did I do to my '51 GMC? Nothing! I'm fixing the power going to my garage so everything is on hold now. Baaaah. Good news is, I should have power again this weekend...
Got one side of my cab rotisserie bracket completed today. Have to wait to pull the chassis and cab out of it's spot next to the garage to get the driver's side door off and complete fabbing the bracket for that side.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
After driving around for a couple of days with all most no brakes, i found the right front wheel cylinder leaking,still need to replace. I filled master cylinder up and have brakes again for now. I did change the left front wheel bearings, that fixed the growl from the front end. 1954 3100.
Got the driver's side door off today and nearly completed the rotisserie bracket for that side. Ran into a snag when 3 out of 4 screws for the striker snapped off in the bolt plates, so had to get those out and the threads cleaned up. Also noted the door hinges had been worked on previously, as one of the springs was completely missing, and the pocket for the hinge had been hogged out.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Paint on one of my original wheels was starting to peel and the rust was getting a pretty good hold. It was also running onto my white walls. I pulled the wheel and wire brushed it down to good meta, front and back. I used a trick my brother told me about. I let the air out of the tire and insert playing cards around the outside of the rim between the rim and the tire. It saved me front breaking down the tire and pulling it off the rim. I was able to paint the wheel without painting the tire. While I had it all off I also pulled the break drum and cleaned and painted it. I thought it was a good idea until I looked at my other 3 wheels. Now I am going to have to do them. Oh well., if it wasn't cleaning and painting the wheels it would be something else. It hurts so good.
Put a junkyard alternator on the 37,the one that was on it is probably out or warranty and no sense on spending almost 70 dollars when I want to put a generator back on. Found out the bracket was broken which explains the strange noise I was hearing.
A day late but...pulled the steering column/gearbox, parking brake, and driveshaft yesterday off my '58. The cab and engine/tranny are pretty much ready to be taken off the frame.
Spent some time cleaning the dist cap and adjusting points and fitting new plugs on the '37 ('54 - 235) still runs like crap on about 3 or 4 cyls , plug leads next ??
Putting the metal bedsides on the installed wood bed floor as my son is putting the roller rockers on our 383 stroker motor! Our one night a week dad and son time! He is 44 and I am just "old"!
points points/gap setting condenser distributor cap coil all plugs/distributor leads/cables/wires coil-to-distributor lead spark plugs (just for the heck of it - run a ground wire from a distributor cap screw to a coil-clamp-to-head screw)
Went to bring mine home from the In-Laws so i can do some fall work on her and start the body work, but she blew an exhaust donut about 2 miles out, so i turned around cause i didn't want to have permanent hearing loss. Had another 60 miles to drive. LOL
Ripped the driver's side rocker panel out of the cab and patched the hinge pillar. Used a light gauge fencepost to brace the door opening, because it's what I had laying around. Picking away at the rust a little at a time.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
My '65 C10 started doing a wonky thing, sometimes the starter would not do anything... and I replaced it earlier this year.
Then it was doing the same thing... of course when I was out and about and on the other side of the big city I live near.
I started some basic troubleshooting and found the small wire going to the starter was cracked in places. I wiggled it, it started right up.
I wound up replacing a good part of that wire and thought it was all good... but, nope.
After a doctor appointment one day, same thing... it hit a lick, then it wouldn't.
HMMN.
wiggled the wire, and it started up.
I started checking it out... the wires going to the main engine harness plug wire on the passenger side of the firewall looked like they were ready to give up the ghost, right where it went into the plug. Hmmn.
Many years ago I had to replace one of those wires... so I unsnapped it and two more wires broke off.
I broke out the soldering gun and what not but I was having no luck this time getting going in the direction I wanted, so I just ordered a new engine harness.
Then things got interesting, seems there were different harnesses, for a 6 cylinder with gauges or lights and for a v8 with gauges or lights. Now, I have gauges, so that part was easy, but I have no idea what engine it had originally. Hmmn.
I went with the v8 with gauges, figured I could make it work.
The box arrives, I check out the goodies... yay new parts.
I start looking at the instructions layout... it was pretty neat, they had each wire numbered with a sheet of paper listing what each one was for. However, it was for the very original layout so I had to do a little internet searching to figure out what I needed.
After that, I basically only needed to hook up two wires, 1 to the HEI hot ignition and the other to the small wire going to the starter. I taped off the other wires as my gauges are wired in other ways(previous owner) or not working at all... though I think I will investigate hooking 'em up later.
At any rate it all fired up and runs again, so yay.
Man I love Craigslist. Today I mounted and wired a set of Hella horns-original cost to the PO was $80, I got them for $15 new in the box. Took the horn button/contact apart and cleaned everything up with vinegar. So far from Craigslist I have found the horns, gas tank with sending unit, new set of stainless heated lighted west coast mirrors, 7" spot mirrors, new truck take off medium duty tail lights- all for less than $200.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Made one of those engine stands in the tech tip section looks good now I can get my spare engine out of the box of my truck has been in there for almost two years.