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#1281125 09/22/2018 5:16 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 36
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 36
Hello all

I have a 1942 Chev truck that I am about to start working on and looking at Brake and wheel options. The truck is a Holden bodied 2wd 160 inch wheelbase ex Australian army truck that has 10 stud spit rim wheels and drum brakes. This thing measures just short of 2 meters (6 foot 8 inches) across the frond guards so a bit wider than the standard pickups.

I am not looking to do a resto but would like a regularly derivable truck. I am not interested in looking for a different truck as I started driving this truck from the age of 5 until I was 16 and left home. I have a spare chassis of a shorter wheel base model that I will most likely use. For the purists this is not a pristine example and was used hard as a farm truck. I remember many late nights driving in circles with the hay loader on the side and dad stacking hay bales on the back. I also remember putting it in first gear and pointing it across the paddock whilst I got out an climbed on the back to throw out those same bales many years later to half starved cattle in the middle of a drought.

What I would like to achieve is 5 or 6 stud steel wheels with hub caps and more modern drums or disk front and drum rear. What are the options. I am leaning towards keeping the front I beam axle but if cross member swap from something like a C20 is the only option I am keen to hear. I would also consider an I beam of a late model Japaneses truck. I understand there are some postal vans in the states that may have parts that may work but we did not get them in Australia so I can't just drop into my local wrecker.

Thanks in advance

Steve

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Later model GM trucks with IFS or solid axle might be a possible transplant. Get both axles from the same vehicle, matching brake master cylinder and steering box. Get out your scale, start measuring anything to get started. Be aware of obsolete wheel/bolt patterns, use tubeless tires.

Ed

Last edited by EdPruss; 09/22/2018 1:21 PM.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 36
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 36
Ed

Thanks for the reply. Tubeless tyres/tires is one thing I definitely wanted. In recent years just about every wrecker has closed down near where I live which makes measuring harder to achieve. I am not sure if I would be better posting this question in the Hipo section as someone may have done this before. I don't want to reinvent the wheel I just want to find what will work.

Steve

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Have a look here, if you have other GM products from the 80's and later you might have trucks with same bolt pattern axles available, and those come with disc brakes and 19.5" tubeless wheels.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...4-1-1-5-and-2-ton-trucks.html#Post725027

Otherwise you can adapt axles from anything you think fits reasonably, use your tape measure.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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