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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 | My 55 truck comes back from the blaster tomorrow. I have some minor welding to do after which I like cover with lead to fill the pin holes. I also have had to rebuild some delicate areas of the rear door post. The part where the door seal/weatherstripping would come up against. I've patched in some strips and lead the area since it's easy to shape.
I've got some SPI epoxy primer on the way..any special precautions relative to covering the lead with paint other than the usual wipe down with the wax remover?
Thanks,
Keith | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 | i always nutralize the lead with vinager | | | | | Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 615 | Hey GMC thanks..I believe I've
used that before
Keith | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 | i would also like to point out that u should always melt out the old lead u find on a truck because ther is usualy rust under ther | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 | gmckustom, could you elaborate on why you wash the lead with an acid? Body putty lead is an almagram of lead,antimony,tin, and other metals. They are basically inert as far as having an acid or alkaline PH. The old flux was an acid base to etch the metals and to get a "tooth" for the lead to stick to. I suspect that (the acid flux) is why there is rust under old lead repairs. I am no bodyman, and I am just trying to expand my knowledge. That is why I ask the question. Jimmie. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 | After it's sanded with 80 grit to remove the file scratches, it's supposed to be neutralized with ammonia. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 | to tell you the truth jimmie d im am jsut a body man not a scientist so i mam not sure why u do it but i do know that it needs to be done in the old car world there are alot of different ways of getting the job done if u do a really good job at it u stay in business for a long time. What i am trying to say is i got most of my knowledge from oldtimers that have been doing great for a long time there is no better teacher. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,374 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,374 | If you dont do it right, you will know as soon as the paint starts to bubble up...
Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 428 | gmckustom, Thank you for your reply. I am no scientist either. ( when I was younger I wanted to be an organic research chemist though )One thing I have learned is that if something is done for a long time with good results there is a reason for it. If you do it and the men who taught you did it that is good enough for me. Jimmie D. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 120 | lead is what i like to call a unstable substrate if not treated properly it is not going to hold up as good as the metal around it causing what i like to call an uninvisible repair. Sometimes it can take years to see an uninvisible repair over lead witch is one thing that separates the bigtimers 'and oldtimers' from the average noname shop that lasts a couple years, in the same location anyway | | |
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