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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 93
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
W Offline
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 93
I am a long way from being to the stage of doing this but was wondering if anyone had plans/dimmensions on how to make the wood floor for my truck which is a '50 3100 shortbed? I have the lumber and the tools but don't have the dimensions, and/or steps for drilling the mounting holes, including the offsenter washers so I thought I would check with the experts! Many thanks in advance. Also curious what kind of routing detail I need on the edges for the metal strips to sit into.


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878


β€’1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
β€’1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
β€’1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 93
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 93
That is awesome. Thanks. I saw that document mentioned and even went to their site but could not find it. My only question is how to measure the side boards, but that may be easy enough to figure out once I get the bed assembled again. If anyone has other tips/tricks please share! Thanks!


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,270
Jason,

You could not find anything at the links given above by Grigg?

The first link has measurement information that is somewhat confusing/complicated, but it is something.
The second link goes to a page with a lot of information, including Grigg's first link.

Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 93
W
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 93
It is nearly everything I need, and actually may be all I need but I don't know for sure. It seems the edge boards would be slightly different with the way the rail strips attach to the side panels of the bed and it doesn't mention that.


Jason

Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.)

1950 Chevy 3100

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,208
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,208


Gord πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
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.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
Thanks, that’s better info.


β€’1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
β€’1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
β€’1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 614
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 614
I probably aready know the answer, but here it goes anyway. Is there a router bit available that would do the edge cuts?
I’m always for the easy way!
Jim


~ Jim Schmidt, Bucks County, PA
1953 Chevrolet 3804 1-ton
In the DITY Gallery
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,124
4
'Bolter
'Bolter
4 Offline
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,124
In looking at the drawings, it seems fairly straightforward. Use a 3/4” straight bit (dado bit) and enough passes each to reach the shallowest needed dimension. A fence will be useful to guide the router base and likely need be moved to achieve the required width. Then use a narrower straight bit, adjust the cutting depth as deep as needed to meet the drawing dimensions. As you likely know the depth of cuts for the deep and shallow dimension will best be achieved in increments. Cutting a deep cut in one pass can be done, but likely result in tear out and/or other frustration easily avoided by taking multiple passes at increasing bit length.

An alternative approach would be to use a table saw and adjust fence and blade depth as needed. That likely would be my choice for speed and cut quality.

Both options will achieve a quality product if the boards are dry, straight, knot free, without bows, twists or other defects.

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,208
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,208
Our boards were milled at my neighbor's fully equipped wood shop. I asked about using a router table. His recommendation was to use the table saw with dado blades and that's what we did. He had a gadget with rollers on it to hold the board down and against the fence.


Gord πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed

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