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Ok, my flooding problem still exists. My Carter YF floods and stars the engine. It was rebuilt with a kit from Carb King and I checked the float settings with him in the cleaning and rebuild process. I also soaked the carb in cleaner and did a good cleaning before reassembly. When I installed it ,the engine fired immediately, had good vacuum. I checked the timing was and it was right on the bearing at about 500 rpm. I thought the problem was solved with the rebuild and moved on to fix some bad wires and properly wire my 6V alternator. I started and ran the engine to check the wiring, it ran well and everything electrical worked . I went to start it up and it was back to the old game of immediate start, runs a little and then floods out with gas coming out the throttle shaft. The fuel pump is a reliable glass bowl model for the engine, I checked and all of these models fit the 216 and the 235, so overpressure does not look like the problem. I also have an inline clear fuel filter installed prior to the fuel pump, to eliminate anything coming in the tank. The tank was cleaned some years ago and the filter is clean. So by my way of thinking I have clean fuel going into the fuel pump where it gets filtered again through the screen,eliminating debris that could hold the needle and seat open and is at a proper pressure from the pump, which fits all Chevy 6's from 37 - 52.

Anybody with an idea that I haven't addressed or any idea that of what this could possibly be?

Did you uses any pipe dope or thread tape when you reassembled the inlet?

Flooding is almost always caused by trash between the needle valve and the seat. Be sure the float isn't hanging up on anything that might prevent it from putting full pressure on the needle valve. Also, you need to use a better filter. Those inline clear filters are worse than useless- - - - -they make you think the fuel is clean!
Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks for this comment/suggestion: "Also, you need to use a better filter."

What type of fuel filter do you suggest for those of us who like to maintain a "vintage - period-correct" appearance?
This: at the carburetor inlet, or at the fuel-pump outlet?
Or, this: dual-action fuel pump, with glass bowl and filter screen
Or, some other filter - in what location?

Thanks,

I do not remember which YF you have. Is it manual or automatic choke?

If automatic choke, is the choke butterfly acquiring a vertical position (wide open).

If the choke is not going wide-open, the engine could load up, causing stalling. If the engine is hot, then pressure in the fuel line will dump some fuel into the bowl, raising the level above the main discharge nozzle, and it will then drop down onto the throttle plate, and run out beside the throttle shaft.

However, dirt is a distinct possibility anytime you loosen and tighten old fittings on an old fuel line.

I would suggest acquire a helper; then start the engine, and run it at a fast idle until the engine warms. Now have the helper slide a piece of Masonite (or similar substance) across the air intake (while you are running at a fast idle) causing the engine to stall. Now restart, and see what happens.

Jon.

Tim

Check out ebay 352439200028 Carter glass bowl filter.

Install this right at the carburetor, and install a Carter Magnatrap: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_Magnatrap.jpg

Jon.

Tim, I'm partial to the glass bowl filter that mounts inline at the carburetor inlet. The ones we sold and recommended for years were similar to the one you listed with the exception that they had a ceramic filter element, not paper. Those elements are scarce and pricey these days, and I'm not sure if they filter any better than paper- - - -they just look "period-correct". Jon's suggestion about adding the magnet is also a very good one.
Jerry

OK, Let me get to answering. I did not use pipe dope or tape on anything. I have a manual choke. I will get an inline filter to install just before the carb. I will search out the magna trap and see if I can find one

Thanks All

I was experiencing flooding a few years ago

Found junk in the inlet threads
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Cleaned the threads up with a butterfly brush
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Installed a filter at the inlet
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Have not had a problem since

The filter I used is set up for double inverted flair


This is in addition to the under tank filter

i have found the factory float setting to be incorrect in these rebuild kits when you remove the top of the carb with float hanging , flip it over and make sure the float sits level with the base of the carb. on a nother note make sure the float is good and not filling up with gas . pull it out and shake it

i have found the factory float setting to be incorrect in these rebuild kits when you remove the top of the carb with float hanging , flip it over and make sure the float sits level with the base of the carb. on a nother note make sure the float is good and not filling up with gas . pull it out and shake it

Dave, push the enter button one and leave it alone. These multiple posts are annoying. Your browser is slow, give it time to do its thing. Thanks, The Stovebolt Staff

Note sure where you heard otherwise

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Martin,
DJ is running 3 Corvette carburetors through a Corvette intake and a Corvette dual exhaust in an AD. He therefore is entitled to make the same post 3 times without retribution. It is in the ODSS bylaws. You can look it up (if John can remember where he left this all important Document).
Carl
Curator of the ODSS BBS of D.

i am new at this computer stuff but having fun

OK, time to update and report!

I took everyone's advice to heart and did these things.

First I got the filter that Dads50 recommended. $3.00 at car quest and fit perfect, highly recommend, however that didn't fix it.
So, I pulled the top off the carb to look at the float bowl and see if there was anything junk left from the previous no filter attempt. The float was stuck down in a full open position. I think I had the pin that holds the float to the carb top was inserted from the wrong side and had slipped out. I put it in from the correct side and now everything seems to work. For those unfamiliar with the pin, it is just a steel pin with a rib on it that keeps it in position and prevents it from working itself out. when inserted properly it is held in by the side of the float bowl in one direction and the rib in the other direction. If backwards, it can work loose and the float disconnects and doesn't close the needle valve.

I have high hopes that this is it, but to complete my after action review, I have touched and hopefully improved each aspect of the fuel to engine system. The tank was cleaned some years ago. I put in a later model gas gauge and pick up unit and plumbed in a new fuel line, eliminating the gravity flow out the bottom of the tank, installed a paper filter prior to the fuel pump, installed a good glass bowl pump, and rebuilt the Carter YF. The engine runs good but not yet to what I want, in the process I have also added a 6V alternator and rewired most of the stuff under the hood. I have to find the right RPM to get the alternator charging enough to keep the lights from dimming at idle. Thinking about 600 RPM.

Now if I haven't put anything else in wrong, this should work great.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Very easy to install the float pin backwards the first time you do a YF. It was a mistake you will never make again.

Jon

Except I knew better and just screwed up,