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#1274912 08/03/2018 7:48 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
I've been fussing around with my door remotes for longer than I care to admit. The interior door handles and shafts are chewed-up and the handles won't stay in place. It seems to make sense to replace the remote and the interior handle at the same time. The vendors have them, anyone using these reproduction parts? If so, how are they working for you?

Thanks,


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
the repo remote on my 50 works great

I didn't think they offered them for your year?


Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
As far as your experience with the repos goes, that's good to hear.

It looks like the vendors advertise them as '47-'54 or '47-'55. I believe that my passenger side is an original as you push it forward to open and pull back to lock it (as the operator's manual says). The driver's side operates exactly opposite like the '48-'54s, sooooo..... I'm assuming the repo remotes will work? I may be finding out real soon! headscratch


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Posts: 4,263
The repo will work like your drivers side

Not like your original passenger,

Youll have to install it like the shop manual states and glue a small spacer to the door to hold out the door panel


...example...

Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Thanks DADS50,

Any idea how thick the spacer should be?


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,263
I dont remember how thick it was

I just used a piece of foam from some packaging

...click...

...click...

I only placed one but the diagram calls for two

Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Former BMW Rider
Former BMW Rider
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 786
Okay, got it!

Thanks again,


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 140
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 140
Does anyone know if these spacers are available anywhere?

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
Originally Posted by dhjmd
Does anyone know if these spacers are available anywhere?
These spacers are nothing special. The originals where made of a dense black foam which melted and oozed away over time.
Any kind of dense foam of about 1/4" thick should match what was originally used.
These spacers were an "oh crap!" moment for GM when they changed the operation design to pull-to-open in '48. Moving the trailing edge of the arm above the horizontal crease in the door necessitated the spacers so that the arm would clear the cardboard.
They are not needed on '47 arms which ride in the horizontal crease in the door, thus not interfering with the cardboard.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Posts: 4,476
I just went thru the same ”oh crap” realization as 52Carl. On my ‘52 chevy, the interior door handles would not spring back. Although the whole assemblies need to be replaced, I wanted to educate myself on the operation so I could eventually order the right parts. I took both door panels off and found that the passenger side worked fine without the panel in place. I noticed the horizontal door channel that 52Carl talked about and thought the whole assembly was mounted upside down. as you already know it then worked but you pushed the handle forward to open. Well that won’t work. I then looked at the Truck Assembly Manual and saw that it was mounted as I originally found, it but was missing the spacers. I temporally installed a couple of wooden shims and that solved the problem. Mine needed to be a little larger than 1/4” to clear the operator. You can measure yours to get the needed clearance.

The drivers side spring is broke so no joy there.

Last edited by Phak1; 10/28/2019 12:16 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thx for the very valuable info Carl! I’ve ordered a couple ABS plastic pieces that are 1/8” and 1/4” thick so we’ll see which works better!

Thank you again,
Derek


Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

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