On my 1951 Chevy 3100 Series pickup, the engine (216 6 Cyl. with transmission attached) had been out of it for a while and I had a real difficult time reinserting it. I unfortunately was not able to line up the splines on the torque tube to the transmission. Is there any relatively easy way to reinsert the torque tube? I thought maybe disconnect the rear end and allow space for the slplines to line up, but I didn’t really want to do that. Let me know if you guys know and easier way to reattach the torque tube.
Put your rear end up on jack stands and keep transmission in neutral. You should be able to rotate it that way. I had to put a floor jack under the torque tube to lift it up 1-2”. Be very careful not to bend it.
If your u joint is the type that can be split while installed, then do that. Most stock u joints for the torque tube set up cannot be split on the truck. I have not had to do driveline work on my '51 but to drop the transmission on my '42 1/2 ton you have to move the rear axle back 4-5 inches. To do this, you must detach the transmission mount, remove the cross member, unhook the parking brake and remove the u bolts. This was accomplished with the truck on a lift. A long pry bar is used to move the axle back, as far as the brake hose will allow. With the torque tube bell retracted as far as it will go, the drive shaft will separate from the u joint attached to the rear of the transmission. If I understand the question correctly, I believe this is what you will have to do to reconnect your driveline. Or, you can remove the engine/transmission assembly if you have not progressed too far and make sure things are lined up as you reinstall.
Kent
Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 07/06/20184:03 AM. Reason: clarification
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
One way to get extra room between the end of the torque tube and the tranny is to put the rear jack stands under the frame, not under the rear end. Thus, the rear end hangs lower and gives more space to the u joint area.
I've used this technique on both my old trucks (1927 and 1928).
"One way to get extra room between the end of the torque tube and the tranny is to put the rear jack stands under the frame, not under the rear end. Thus, the rear end hangs lower and gives more space to the u joint area."
It is easier than you think. I honestly believe that the hardest part was getting the tranny mount bolted up. You can use a jack to manipulate trans if needed. The rest is pretty straight forward. When you bolt up the unjointed, there are little tabs that fold over (unsure name). If these are broken, use some blue lock tire so it doesn’t come loose. I know the guys will jump in on this part. That is what we ended up doing.
If what you mean is reinstalling the engine and tranny bolted together into the engine compartment. At the same time trying to sliding the ball housing onto the torque tube without unbolting the ball housing from the tranny.
If this is what you are trying to do, I would say it can be done by rotating the ether the engine crankshaft or rear tires to line up the rear yoke splines inside the ball housing with the propeller shaft.
If you rotate the engine crankshaft take out spark plugs and put the tranny in gear so the tranny main output shaft/rear yoke will rotate. The rear tires will keep the propeller shaft from turning or in place until the rear yoke splines are lined up.
If you rotate the rear tires to line up the propeller shaft to the rear yoke splines, put the tranny in gear so the main output shaft/rear yoke cannot rotate.
The problem is, the rear yoke bushing is at the end of the torque tube, once you pull the engine and tranny out, the rear yoke falls down onto the ball housing. That has to be somehow lifted up, to line up the splines. It is probably easier just to remove the ball housing, line up splines reinstall ball housing. The end of the propeller shaft is beveled, which can help coax the rear yoke into place.
You can pull the engine and tranny out, bolted together without removing the ball housing, the ball housing will just slide off the end of the torque tube. Reverse is a little harder.
Thanks for the attachment jorb. Lot better seeing it in color depiction.
1953 Chevrolet 3100 261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done In the DITY Gallery Video of the 261 running
1964 GMC 1000 305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
on my 51 3100 by using a floor jack i was able to raise the torqtube up aganst the floor board slide the ball or bell back and then lower the torqtube down to line up the u bolt and bolt it togrther slide the ball and bolt the retanier and button everthing up
on my 51 3100 by using a floor jack i was able to raise the torqtube up aganst the floor board slide the ball or bell back and then lower the torqtube down to line up the u bolt and bolt it togrther slide the ball and bolt the retanier and button everthing up
This is what I do when I am removing or installing the gear box, with jack stands under the rear frame members which allows the TT to pivot freely.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
