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| | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | Hello,
does somebody have a link for the assembly of different part at the right place for an 235 cui engine.
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Wolfgang | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | A maintenance manual for year of truck or year of motor will have that info. Ein Wartungshandbuch für das Jahr des LKW oder das Jahr des Motors wird diese Information haben. This online information may help. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955truck2/55ctsm0621.htm
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | and another question, where do I get the screw to fix the oil pump at the engine block and the two connectors the fix the tubes to the oil pump and to the engine block?
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Wolfgang | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Hey, this is you 8 years ago.......... https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=646392For the bolts and set screws and any other hardware, you have figure out the size and length and buy them. They are SAE American treads. I think there are variations of pumps depending on year and car or truck. Not sure. There is a tapered lock screw with a lock nut I think. What happened to that tapered screw? Start reading carefully on page 6-14 here. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0614.htmlScroll down to picture of "tapered bolt". If this is it, it's just a bolt with a tapered nose. Can be ground from a normal bolt. I'm guessing a 3/8-16 X 1 1/2 long. Length does not seem to be critical because a nut locks it after nose goes into something. https://www.lowrider.com/how-to-tech/engine/0904-lrmp-six-cylinder-build/#The AD boys will help from here. I'm guessing too much on an important part.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 | The oil pump retaining set screw has a hex head & the end is tapered.
Size... 7/16 - 14 x 1 3/8 overall.
The length & having the correct size tapered end of the set screw are very important.
The tapered end is there for a reason.
The taper is like an adjustment, only goes in the oil pump hole so far.
It correctly locks the oil pump body in place so it doesn't move.
The lock nut only locks the set screw.
Wolfgang, you should not "Jerry rig" this part.
-Tom
1950 Chevy 3100 w/ 1956 235
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | If you can't find an original bolt, I would make it. It just has to have a snout to stick into the pump tube hole and retain it. You can test fit the taper in the hole before installing. You can test after install by pulling on the pump. The length is not super critical because there has to be room for the nut to draw down. If it's too short or too long you will know because you are looking at all the surrounding area. The taper looks to be about 4 threads long and tapers about to the thread root. Just taper it to seat about half way into hole or a tad more. It's not a high tech part and can be visually tested. A LARGE bolt for such a small job because the taper tip needed to be strong. If you find one here or Ebay, all the better. You can see this bolt on Deve's website. Make sure she clears the crankshaft   Thanks to Deve's site. http://devestechnet.com/Home/Project1959235
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | Ok, thank you for your answers.
Wolfgang | | |
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