The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1960 GMC V4000 help

Hi folks. My newly acquired truck used to have a dump bed but that's gone on a different journey. Brakes are my big issue, as in I have no brakes. I've got a steep learning curve on these brakes, they look to be manual but if I understand the vin correctly supposed to be vacuum assisted. Just getting started on a very interesting trip. Any help is appreciated, thanks. Denny

I presume you are talking about juice brakes? If one tells where one is located, (rust belt or not) it will help. Get new wheel cylinders, it is not worth fooling with cleaning out old, corroded cylinders unless last resort. Get a kit for your master. Then bleed the system with a pressure bleeder. Old wheel cylinders may not have bleed valves that thread in properly to seal(thus new wheel cylinders), then tell us.

Ed

Ed is right, put your general location in your profile. I can assure you we are not all going to show up at your place and rob you blind. You may find another Bolter close by who can help with the heavy/complicated stuff. After all that’s what we do.🛠

Denny:Post the full VIN.

Location: Some information can be missing because of being in "moderated" status. Don't know which info that is. He has 2 posts. His first post is "Howdy from NC".

Hy Dhaaldens1960, welcome,does your truck have torsion bar suspension or a beam axle and leaf springs? If it has torsion bar please look on the top of the upper control arm and see what number is on it, it is a large number either a 5 or a 7, it makes a difference to what front brake components you have. Is your truck equipped with an automatic or a standard transmission/ If a standard your truck uses a hydraulic clutch and would require a master cylinder with two separate bores, one for the brakes and one for the clutch. That master cylinder would be Raybestos p/n MC34404, I'll give you more numbers once you have answered my questions.

Hope to see some pictures too.

I have torsion bars, will look for the number on the weekend. I do have a master cylinder with two lines coming out of it. I did find the vacuum unit under the floorboard, driver side. Truck is a 5 speed with 2 speed rear end. One brake line has been removed but I'm guessing they all need to go. Guess custom bends are my only option, will need to learn a new skill...

It was a dump but that's all removed before I got it. The pto pump seems to be there so maybe can find another use for it.

You guys are welcome to show up if you bring your own tools ;-)

Still trying to figure out pics, easy place to host?. VIN: V4008PN4726E. I read the vin ID stuff but my wheelbase is 174" so I didn't decode something right. Thanks

To answer your original question. The brake specification is on the inside of glove box door on the "Service Parts Identification Plate". Lots of good info on that plate. V 4000 should be Chassis Cab 14,500 GVW. As you know the N is 60-61 and the P is Pontiac, MI.

I have a 1960 1/2T and several 1960 GMC specific books including Master Parts Book, if you need any more info.

Looks good. Interesting that it is a 5-Speed - 2-Speed as many 4000's were just straight 4-Speeds, if original anyway.

If the Wheel Base is different from the VIN, many times frames have been shortened or lengthened through the years.

Keep us posted on it.

Trans is probably NP-540 series, 4 shift rails, Al top cover.

Ed

Bartamos, what do you read in the ViN tea leaves? This truck looks to be all stock with only a little serious rust at the driver door step. Fenders, hood and body are solid. It even appears to have an original radio. Operation instructions for shifting the 5 speed are on the sun visor. Any ideas on what books I need with engine and truck details, part manuals etc? The frame was reinforced after a crack back sometime in its previous life as a dumper. I'll likely take that off and do my own frame reinforcing.

The 4000 series "tractor" could be fitted with many bed options. Vacuum or air brakes. 15 combinations of transmissions. Several different V6's. 305B and 305C (stamped on a pad, front of passenger side block). The 305A was used for 1960 1000-3500 series trucks. A Diesel and even a twin tandem V6 was offered in some GMC models!

Did you find the glove box plate?

V4008PN4726E

The V is Vacuum Hydraulic brakes (HydroVac), 40 series, 08 wheelbase, P Pontiac MI plant, N 60-61 year designation, 3725 th off the Pontiac Plant line (a GMC only plant) (Some plants started with 10,001 and some with 1001). E is D.O.T. GVW rating. A unique 2 year only hood, 2 year only round V6 emblem. Big Block GMC specific V6. Much torque, only 4000 max RPM, massive oiling and cooling designed passages and pumps. Good motor. For most people it's a boat anchor. You may or may not fall in love with it. I like mine because it's original. Otherwise I would not use it. I would use a SBC or BBC. I bought a running 305 V6 and a SM420 for $200.

Further info/options are by observation and the data plates. You may not need a manual if you are not doing anything technical. There are brochures and manuals on Ebay all the time. The 1000-3500 series manuals are what I have. Have see manual for 1000-5000.

I do not know about Big Trucks like this. I just like searching. It gives me surface knowledge. I do know all about the 60-66 GMC 1/2 and 3/4 Ton trucks.

Bartamos, thanks for the help. The glove box plate lists same model and serial as vin. 305B engine NP540 transmission type CD26 speed 5DD

RTS identification I8I5 Cab

Also lists info on front and rear axle and axle ratio. # leaf springs .

I will eventually find a smaller truck too to make my daily driver. Years ago I had a '56 GMC pickup with the deluxe cab, wrap around rear window etc. I want to get back to an inline six and three on the tree. This big one will be used to haul my tractors around and bring stuff back from farm auctions and CL hunts. My '88 Blazer is just not big enough to pull the load, a recent hair-raising trip back from the hills, in pouring rain, trailering an International 404 is what sent me scouting for a bigger truck. My rollback will do it when it's running, which is not now of course but not anywhere near as cool as a '60 big bolt. I found a couple options for a daily driver candidate nearby but have to wait until I get some more money ;-)

The fun's in the hunt...

Love V-6's.

Drove the smallest one made (305) and the largest one made (478).

One of my 305's would carry 2 1/2 Cords of green firewood.

My 478 would carry a whole house load of lumber (less the trusses).

It is a engineering design marvel. First GM V6 motor. Aluminum giant pistons. Spark plugs on the inside of the head, keeping the wires away from hot exhaust and ....on and on. Water flow up the ying.

Trying out this for pics

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CrfCLK6iPzYXfmVj8

If I did it right same link will work for future pics

It worked. Thanks for the pics!

TrIckled a little gas in the carb got it running a bit but spitting back out the carb. When I pour gas in the top of the carb it just leaks right out the bottom so looks like a rebuild is in the future, surprise!. Tried undoing the fuel line at the carb but very tight. Gotta go to the import store for a set of tube wrenches, can only find one and that's the wrong size. Are there any special tricks to loosening the fuel line? Looks like it's on there tight, don't want to round it off using a regular 1/2" wrench. Please don't say, use a torch ;-)

Got some pics showing the serious rust area at the drivers door step area. Also a pic of the frame crack and previous repairs. Pics of the 8.25-20 Cooper road master tires and wheels. Should I pull the fuel tank and flush the lines. Assume the fuel pump needs replacing but what more should I look out for. Muffler has rusted away but if I'm careful of when I let it run they won't get too upset.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CrfCLK6iPzYXfmVj8

Spray with PB Blaster and let set a couple of hours. Then try out your new line wrench.🛠

Hy Dhalldens1960, in your picture of the outside dual I see a Firestone RH5 wheel, these are very dangerous they are often referred to as widow makers. Please remove the valve core from that wheel and check to see how many more of those type wheels you have and remove the valve core from them also for your own safety.

Rusty areas don't look too bad really. Shouldn't be that hard to fix.

If necessary, you can use Pick-up Truck Rocker Panels to help.

Pick-Up Step Sill Plates will fit fine.

If they are inflated and tires / rims in good condition, they are fine for now. Just start looking for a new set of rims for the future. They won't "EXPLODE" by themselves. Just don't mess with them on tire change.

Hy Santerre and guys, Firestone RH5 wheels did explode and injure people when the trucks were sitting still, prior to these events there was no indication of any problem with the wheels. Lawsuits ensued because people were severely injured when these wheels exploded without warning, if you don't believe me just google RH5 wheels, my concern here is that no-one be injured by these potential bombs, I would rather see everyone safe rather than injured!

Now I'm confused, should I deflate the tires?

No, just leave them alone. Don't beat or bang on them. Ignore them until your ready to change them out, then deflate them and discard.

I would only leave them on for rolling it around the yard while searching for replacements and I would reduce the air pressure to about 20 psi, Do no drive with them on, hitting a small pot hole could cause them to blow apart...you have no way of knowing how rusty the matting lip is on those 58 year old rims. There's a reason they were outlawed...

Be safe to yourself and those around you!

Mike B

I will be very careful, it is just sitting now so hopefully "safe" for now. To work on the brakes I will have to remove the wheels and I will deflate them first. I think I'll rig up some sort of remote valve so as I deflate them I can be out of the way, just in case.

I would like to find the replacement wheels now so I could mount the new ones as I finish each one. Been searching past postings to work out my wheel options. Looking for a needle in a haystack sounds like a daunting task, possibly calculated in years per some posts. I know it's part of the fun but I may need to think about retiring sooner so I'll have more fun time. ;-)

Hy Dhalldens, the wheels that were on your truck when it left the factory were Kelsey type three piece wheels, at least that was what was on the truck when it left a Canadian factory. Your wheels have a ten stud mount on an 8 3/4" bolt circle, there should be lots of those wheels available in big truck wrecking yards. There were two basic widths 6" and 6 1/2" and two different offsets 5.53" and 6.0", these wheels were available on C,L,and S 50 and 60 model standard duty trucks. Tubeless wheels were also available for those same trucks, I can provide part numbers if you require them. If you are going to do anything with those wheels I would strongly advise you to remove the valve core from the tube and let the tire deflate completely before you do anything with the wheel itself, good luck.

Thanks 3B for your help. I have ordered some books to help me get a grip on this project. I have to buy tools that I don't have as I need them. Some tools I know I have but can't find when I need them. I guess that's part of the fun too. When I do begin to work on the brakes I want to have a replacement wheel ready to go as the ones I have worry me.


[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/XGYfov9CAMM1Zk8t8[/img]