The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Lost my electrical. Yup, I'm the weak connection!

I'm working on a '51 Chevy 6100 2 ton flatbed that I purchased last year. While removing the non-working gauges last week, I forgot to disconnect the battery (yeah, duh!!) and when I removed the wire at the ammeter, it dropped and sparked against something under the dash. There was a quick smell of fried wire, but I saw nothing which appeared damaged. Today, I tried starting May-Belle and have no spark, no lights, nada.

I just did a quick search on other posts and didn't see anything relevant. I do not have one of the large fuse blocks (seems there was great debate as to their beginning year of use?) and I keep my 4 month old 8 volt battery (no, I'm not converting from 6 to 12 v.) on a battery tender at all times. The motor wanted to start, it rolled over easily as usual. When I tried my lights, nothing.

I have not had time to do much else with it today and can't get back to it for a few days. During this unable to work on it time, I would appreciate any input. Auto electrical has always been my weakness.

THANKS,
Dennis in Austin

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm1201.htm

The large fuse box was used 1950 and earlier.
The two-fuse box came in the 1951 models. (tail and stop lamps/lights)

Other lights would be fused through the light switch.

What lights are not working?

The 8v cludge battery on a 6v system puts a bit of a strain on 6v bulbs.

Sorry, I will not venture to guess what got fried. Someone will step you throught testing.

Thanks for the reference from the oldcarmanuaproject, I looked at the wiring schematic too . . . still not seeing the issue. Will need to do an a to z, once I know a procedure.

The battery was installed by the mechanic who helped get brakes and lights working so the truck could be driven, not hauled. I have read a number of articles on the Cadillac old car site and thought it was a decent idea? Have not had any issues in the past months. Other thoughts out there folks?

Only tried the headlights and turn signal / hazard lights up front. "She who must be obeyed" was awaiting my presents. Cab clearance lights did not come on either. Perhaps disconnecting everything at the gauges disrupted something?

Appreciate any and all insights folks.

I could make a few suggestions from nearly 60 years of doing electrical diagnosis- - - -but the first one would need to be "Toss the 8 volt battery!" Go ahead and listen to the self-appointed experts who are going to show up on this thread very soon!
Jerry

Do you still have the gauge disconnected?

You fried the wire that runs between the ammeter and the battery post on the starter. Replace the wire.

The gauge of that wire should be the size for a 6v system.

The gauge should be listed on one of the 1951 wiring diagrams on this page:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/electrical/wiring/index.htm

Thanks for the replies . . .

Jerry . . . I will replace the 8v battery. Any suggestions? What is a good 6v battery, where to obtain, etc? I looked into the Optima last year but looked as though it would not fit well in the (recently rebuilt) below floor carrier? Also, I would welcome any other insights from your many years of experience. There are always varied (sometimes opposing) opinions on any subject on the www and and in any forum but, as stated above, I am out of my element on this problem.

J.F.. . . . Yes the ammeter is out of the truck. Gauges need to be refurbed and I need to paint the dash. It will be some weeks before all that is finished.

Gord & Tim . . . Thanks for the wiring diagram, that is one area of the oldcarmanualproject literature I had not seen. I have a wiring diagram print but was unable to locate it yesterday. I see that the ammeter to battery is the 10 ga red, should be easy enough to replace. Also see another 10 ga red which splits to ignition switch and voltage regulator. Could they or the regulator have been affected?

All . . . Do I correctly assume that, after replacing the ammeter to battery wire, I should be able to connect the two wires which had been at the ammeter to complete the circuit and then have power to lights and motor?

Again,my thanks for all help,
Dennis

If the ammeter is out of the truck, you need to replace that too, although you could just bypass the ammeter for testing purposes.

Ed

Exactly. If the ammeter is disconnected, the circuit going to the switch might be open. Close the circuit and you should be able to start it.

J. F.

Thanks for the help,

Will look into the wire situation when I get back from our cabin (roof work needed) on Sunday.

Been looking at 6v batteries on the web . . . seems there are limited choices to fit in the existing battery box.

The Optima 6v battery will fit the battery box: on an angle, and, be careful with the metal hold down.

Keep it well charged - it is the best 6v battery I have ever used. One is over 13 years old.