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#1267907 06/02/2018 7:28 PM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 523
B
Shop Shark
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B Offline
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 523
Don't really know where to post this. I recently ordered a radiator surge tank from the Filling Station. It came with 2 different ID labels to put on the side. One is vinyl self adhesive, single color. The other is a multi-color copy of the original classic label but is a water base decal. Needless to say, I would like to use the decal, but I am concerned about applying it to something mounted in the engine compartment. Is there something that I can coat it with that will water proof but wont cause it to wrinkle and blister? And no, the Filling Station did not have an answer - they only sell it.
Bob


BobS46
Joined: Jun 2017
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I got a decal and they said to shellac it after it dries.

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 51
S
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 51
Originally Posted by Don huffer
I got a decal and they said to shellac it after it dries.

Don
Can you explain please. Sorry for my ignorance.


J. F.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,828
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,828
Shellac is a clear paint product similar to varnish. From Wikipedia -- Shellac is a resin secreted by the female lac bug, on trees in the forests of India and Thailand. It is processed and sold as dry flakes and dissolved in ethanol to make liquid shellac, which is used as a brush-on colorant, food glaze and wood finish.
Also from Wikipedia -- Varnish is a transparent, hard, protective finish or film that is primarily used in wood finishing but also for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and a thinner or solvent.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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C
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I use Rustoleum clear enamel on decals for my truck and RC airplanes. The trick is to spray a light mist coat and let dry. Then add light coats, letting dry between. If you try to get the clear on too thick, the chemicals in the paint and or the propellant will affect the decal. Good luck!

Joined: Jun 2017
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D
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Posts: 370
I decided not to shellac because it would shine the dull black finish I want on my air cleaner. Decals are cheap.

Don


Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,828
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,828
There are other satin finish clear products you could try (assuming they don't wrinkle the decal when applied). A Varathane product comes to mind. I think I have a rattle can of satin finish.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 523
B
Shop Shark
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B Offline
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 523
Used Testors clear lacquer, masked the area down close to the decal, sprayed several light coats. Works fine.


BobS46

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