I was going through my clutch linkage on my '63 C10 today. While wiping the grease off, I found a (plastic?) O-ring, for lack of a better term, around the ball on the engine-to-bellcrank stud. It was badly deteriorated, and I dug what was left of it out, unfortunately before I thought to take a picture. You can see the groove in the stud where it was. I went to look for a replacement o-ring online, but I could only find a whole new ball stud, and it was a little different from mine - It did not have an o-ring at all. Another difference was that my stud is pressed in, with the end splayed out to make it a pretty permanent installation. The replacement I found online was threaded, and the description said it threaded into the engine block. Mine is attached to a bracket (visible in the pictures) which is in turn bolted to the block. I wonder if this is because I have a later model 250? Does anyone know were I could get a replacement for the o-ring? If not it probably wouldn't be all that difficult to remove my stud, thread the hole, and put in the replacement, assuming it is the same length and diameter. Any thoughts, comments, or experiences with similar problems would be appreciated.
Just looked at my pictures in prep for upcoming install. Cedric you and I are still on the same path. My stud is also without oring. I will rummage through my ring drawer to see would I can find.
~ HB 1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery 1962 Chevrolet C10 1962 Suburban
I believe you have two choices: 1. Buy the pivot stud for $15 and install into the hole left by the old removed stud and use a washer and nut to secure it to bracket. 2. Go to Ace hardware and buy a rubber washer or O-ring that works.
The rubber washer or O-ring is not super critical. It just holds in the grease when you grease the bell crank tube. The stud sold by Classic Trucks says it is for threading into the V8 block. I am speculating that the 6 cyl bracket places the new stud in the same place. This needs confirmed.
Pressing in or swaging is beyond the DIY ability. I don't see that type pivot stud offered anyway. The new design accomplishes the same seal but won't wear the rubber as much.
Thanks for the resposes. I didn't know I could use a normal generic o-ring. I went through my collection and found one that works. It could be a tad wider, but it will work fine. I believe it came from a pack bought at Lowe's, if anyone wants to know. Thanks again for the input!
