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| | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,057,068 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 123 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 123 | I had the head of my 1956 236 engine rebuilt. put everything back together. New gaskets, fuel lines, even electronic ignition. Put it on the frame of my 1950 pickup and got ready to fire it up. Put the radiator on and hooked up some temporary oil and temp guages. started cranking and cranking nothing. oil pressure went right up to about 30psi while cranking and flow to the rockers was good. wasnt getting good gas so I rechecked the float levels and carb piston and flow was better. still nothing. checked the timing; the needle was on the BB on the flywheel and the rotor was pointing at number 1 cylinder. still nothing so i changed everything 180 degrees and nothing. switched it all back. decieded to recheck the valves. re did setting the valves and tightened everything down.(hydraulic lifters) again checked static timing; good. tried starting. now I was getting some popping. it wants to go but no way. I had put an inline filter before the carb so maybe that was restricted. so i put a straight line in its place. took out the electronic ignition and put the points back in. Set them to .019 Now as i crank the motor it is popping back up through the carb. I tried to play around with the distributor advancing and decreasing the timing, no good. also tried the needle valve on the carb moving it in and out. still nothing. WHAT AM I MISSING??? Ed | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 | My guess is your still out of time on your (236?) engine. Take out #1 spark plug and have someone crank the engine over in short bursts. Place your index finger over the #1 hole and you will feel the compression push your finger off. Stop the bump cranking just as you feel pressure push your finger off. You are now at very close to TDC on the compression stroke. Check your B.B. for fine tuning. See where the rotor is pointing and wire according. Hope it works, good luck.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 123 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 123 | I guess I really messed up the valve timing and setting the screws on the pushrods. Just did a compression test and only cyl #4 registered 120lbs. The other 5 cylinders had zero. back to the beginning. by the way it is a 235 hit the wrong key Martin. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 1,652 | Any chance you had the cam out? If not, this is one of those times a leak down tester may help diagnose or at least eliminate some potential issues. You need to find out if you have valve issues, piston or ring issues or an adjustment issue.
Just as a matter of couriousity, how are you adjusting your valves?
Last edited by Dragsix; 05/29/2018 2:32 AM.
Mike
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