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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
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New Guy
New Guy
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Guys,

I know this has been covered extensively on the forums, but I haven't seen anything related to what I have. My rear duals are in need of replacement. The fronts tires are good. I wanted to know what wheel type I possibly have and whether I should replace just the tires or go with a new tubeless wheel. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for your time.

Specs: 1941 1.5 ton GMC
20in wheels
5 lug
7.75" center to center on lugs
Hub is 6in.

I can attach picture when enabled.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
2 more posts and you’ll have full privileges.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 430
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Figure out what rims you have by looking at the sticky thread in this section. As long as you don't have the true RH-5 widow makers and your wheels are in good shape, use them. Anything model looks, well..... Modern!


Randy Domeck
Indianapolis Fabrications
rdomeck@me.com
Indianapolis, In. 46254
317-258-0039

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Off the top of my head that bolt pattern may not have any modern (tubeless) wheels.
Best bet is keep the originals if they’re in good shape and not the RH5, which I doubt they are.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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New Guy
New Guy
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Guys,

Thank you for your help. I would like to stay with the original wheels, but safety is paramount. Any recommendations on tires for the 20in wheels?online? Order through local tire shop?

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New Guy
New Guy
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Here is the image of the wheel.
Attachments
GMC wheel.jpg (26.28 KB, 163 downloads)

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You have hub centered wheels commonly referred to as "Motor Wheels" (the original manufacturer).
This kind of wheel from back then also came with 6 lug bolt pattern in different applications.

Not sure I've seen any 22.5" (for tubeless tire) motor wheels with 5 lugs, but I have seen a few and have one with 6 lugs, see picture.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/258xVFja7ikaeJYF3
...Which is of no help to you except the faint hope that you might one day find 5 lug 22.5" Motor Wheels, if they exist.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
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New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
When I take off the rear dual that is in need of repair, I will take a look at the wheel and determine the wheel type. Thanks again for your help. I don't have any pictures of the inside, but to the best of my knowledge, the wheel center is revited into the wheel ring and outer sliver portion is the locking ring. I'm a newbie at this, but trying to figure it out. Thanks again for the information. I will post pictures when I get it removed and broken down.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,442
Your wheels are perfectly safe and very good looking. Stay with them. When you need work/mounting done go to a Truck Stop. They will have the knowledge and equipment.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,061
3
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Hy Capt D, as Grigg has said you have a Motor wheel there, that one appears to be a two piece design. When you go to remove your other wheels, have a good look at them to see if they look the same as the one in your picture. If any of your other wheels have a boxlike structure on the inside of the wheel running around the inside circumference, then don't mess with them until the valve core is removed and all the air is exhausted from the tire, those wheel are dangerous when they have any air in them.

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4
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I would absolutely Love it if I could replace the 20's on my 50 4100 with a 19.5 steel wheel/radial tubeless tire. If a 19.5 cleared the rear drum, I would think with modern machining it wouldn't be that difficult to make a wheel with the right center bore/bolt pattern.

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New Guy
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I took some pictures of the inside of the wheel.
Attachments
20180522_160056.jpg (22.66 KB, 121 downloads)
GMC Wheels.jpg (20.59 KB, 118 downloads)

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They look nice, and they are not Firestone RH5 design.
If they're not rusty inside and or damaged they're fine to reuse.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 51
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 51
About 2-3 weeks ago I did replace mine with a brand new set of 8.25-20. The. Old ones were cracked and "out of round". The ride now is much better and most importantly, safer. Firestone were available, but I hoped for a foreign brand to save a pile of money and still have the project going.
When I got the truck, it was mounted on 7.50-20, Wich, in my area are impossible to find with out giving out an arm and a leg. My rims are 6.00 X 20, three pieces in good condition.
If you have a bit of knowledge in mechanical work and tires, don't be affraid of tackling them, just respect a few safety rules, and make sure all the parts are clean and in good condition. You just need a duck bill sledge, couple of pry bar and soapy water. To inflate them, I first set them with about 15 psi, then mounted them on the truck, then fully inflate with a remote valve and gauge. In the back, if something goes wrong, the rings are facing each other, and the front, a few loops of loosely wrap chain can do the job. Just make sure everything set and seat good, if not sure, or not right, release all the air, and reinflate. Go for a ride around the yard if possible and reinspect.
I went with the original style to keep the original look. 19.5 are ok, but are several inches smaller and, in my book don't look right.
It is an old truck, with old suspension type, and what we can barely called a seat for today's standard, so unless you upgrade EVERYTHING, even with radial tires, it will still ride like a stone boat.
Just my 2 cent.


J. F.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
22.5" Motor Wheels with 5 on 8" do exist, although they are somewhat rare, I have two.

Ed

Last edited by EdPruss; 05/27/2018 11:58 PM.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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