The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Brakes!!

Man I am excited, got brakes on all four wheels now. Rebuilt the master cylinder and all six wheel cylinders, all new copper/nickel lines and rubber hoses. I was able to save all of the shoes, only had to clean up one set. For now I have the hydrovac bypassed, that will be y next project.

Hy 78buckshot, good for you, keep it going.

progress is good!! It is a great feeling to be able to stop these big bolts!

I like to tackle one thing at a time so I have some drive time between tasks, it keeps the project fun and moving forward.

exactly! Being able to drive it keeps the incentive up!

Hydrovacs tend to be a little difficult to repair, but they are available as rebuilt units in most cases. Once that's functional, you'll really like how the brakes work. Just be patient and have plenty of brake fluid on hand when it comes time to bleed the system.
Jerry

I haven't yet decided on rebuilding the hydrovac, it looks to be in poor shape as far as rust. Before I rebuilt the rest of the system the hydrovac was working to some degree but I'm pretty sure it was drinking lots of brake fluid inside. I want to haul a load of hay but I'm not going to try that without the hydro working. I think I'll get it off the truck and try to get some numbers off of it and stop at Napa. From the pictures I've seen it looks like a Bendix.

Brakes are the one thing keeping my 50 4100 stuck in the driveway. Got it running smooth, but it has nothing for brakes. Looks like a daunting task. I'll start with a new master, but the rear brakes are dragging hard. One E-brake cable is not connected either. I need to get the brakes freed up just to pull a drum/hub if needed too. Hopefully I can find easy solutions, but I'm having doubts. The truck only has 2370 miles on it, so that helps.

Mine had "zero" brakes when I got it, removed and capped one leaking line and a quik bleed and had some brakes. From that point on I just tackled one rear wheel at a time, then new lines and hose to the rear. For the fronts I did both at the same time just ' cause it was less complicated than the rears. I found rebuild kits for the master and all the wheel cylinders. Once you get in to it you'll find it's not so bad.

78buckshot, where did you find rebuild kits for the master and wheel cylinders? I haven't found any for my '52 6400 and I can't figure out how to get them apart. Since I have NO brakes and need new lines, is this a good time to go ahead and convert to a dual chamber master cylinder? Is it worth the effort? Thanks for any help you can render.

Try Jim Carter trucks they don't advertise it on their website but they have all parts for that truck and I have a 4400 I replaced all brake lines and switch to the Dual master cylinder at the same time a lot simpler plus a lot safer good luck

Oldie, I have a '50 6400 and found front and rear wheel cylinders, master cyl, axle seals as well as king pins and tie rod ends at Jim Carter's Old Chevy Trucks. I'm replacing all the steel lines so will build my own and flare with the double flare tool. Front cyl were $50 each, rears were $90 each and the master was $100.

Oldie, Raybestos and Dorman seem to be the best numbers for the rebuild kits. My single master is 1.25", all four rear cylinders are 1.5", the fronts are .875". Yours may be different diameters. I could not find an exact match for new front cylinders so I did the rebuild. I soaked the cylinders in muriatic acid and then honed them, all leak free. Rear shoes for mine are not available but had lots of lining left so I cleaned up the one side that had been leaking, other three wheels were all dry.

Any idea on where to get my shoes relined? I plan to make everything new, either rebuild it or purchase new parts. Can't be too careful with brakes. Did the pictures help? How do you get the wheel cylinders apart to rebuild them?

Thanks upstream for the info. I'll contact Jim Carter by phone and see what I can get. I'd like to rebuild what I have if it is any good if anyone knows how to take them apart.

Mackr600, What did you use for dual master cylinder? I'd like to change while I have everything apart.

Since I need a new master on my 4100, a dual setup would be the way to go depending on how hard is to do??? It would be great to have the option of an adjustable proportioning valve for
front/rear brake balance, along with having at least 1/2 brakes if something goes wrong. One big leak anywhere on a single master, and you are in big trouble.