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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,272 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | If the PCV valve isn't installed a few inches above the hole in the crankcase, it will draw splashed oil instead of just crankcase vapors into the valve. The engine will consume lots of oil and possibly oil-foul spark plugs. Simply adapting the valve to the draft tube hole without raising it well above the splash zone will almost guarantee that problems will develop. The vacuum lines need to be 3/8" OD tubing like later model systems use. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | "Something that you might want to consider is to fill the vents on the valve cover, then add a fitting to the valve cover and one to the top of the air cleaner. Connect the fittings with a rubber tube. That will allow the engine to breathe clean air that has been filtered through the air cleaner.
If you want to keep the vents looking cosmetically the same (but closed), I remember reading a post on this forum that someone had filled the openings with JB Weld, then sanded them smooth. I thought that was a good idea when I read it. I seem to recall that others have filled the gaps with silicon. I have seen several conversions with the vents pounded closed and then brazed shut."
Matt,
Thanks for those suggestions. I'm trying to think up a way to allow breathing through the original valve cover louvers to keep a look as original as possible while also filtering the air
So far the three approaches that have come to mind are inserting a piece of air filter medium into each ,louver like a piece of TP in a nostril for a nosebleed or making a bracket that attaches to the valve cover studs to hold filter medium over or under the louver openings. Mounting the filter medium inside the valve cover would hide it but would require some clearance between the rocker arms and the inside top of the valve cover. The inside mount option would also require removal of the valve cover and replacement of the cork gasket to check or replace the filters but it would have the plus of the filters being completely hidden, a true "stealth" modification. The outside bracket/filter option would make checking the filters and replacement when dirty easy but would be a really in your face deviation from the original appearance.
Hiding the PCV valve doesn't seem possible but it would be in an inconspicuous location low on the block behind the oil fill/draft tube. I would keep the original draft tube but block its bottom opening with a 1 3/16" freeze plug. The PCV valve would be mounted in a grommet inserted into a piece of 1 1/4" tubing mounted perpendicular to the draft tube facing towards the rear of the engine (a "T" connection of two 1 1/4" tubes).
"Can anyone explain if it’s not working property after installed how we will know?"
Don,
The Deves write up indicates that crankcase vacuum should be between 1" and 3". So measuring the vacuum through the oil dipstick hole per the Deves method would reveal whether you within those limits. An adverse effect on engine performance would be an indicator that something is not right as would decreased performance of anything that requires vacuum (windshield wiper motors, brake booster, AC/heater controls, etc).
Ray
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