Hy Paul's53chevy, that hole is for venting the engine block, either with a road draft tube or a pcv setup depending on the year of the engine or the vehicle it will be installed in, hope that helps.
So to be clear - I leave it open? I don't have a pcv setup - just have draft tube cleaned up and installed. I'm not arguing, I just thought it was funny a 70 yr old guy in my town was around and it drove him nuts! He was a mechanic at a Chevy dealer for 30 years and is just baffled he can't ever remember that hole. His suggestion was to jb weld it and paint over it. Glad I asked. I'll definitely leave it open if that's what it's for.
If you're talking about that 1/4" diameter hole just ahead of the big hole for the draft tube, it's for attaching a baffle inside the crankcase that prevents the crankshaft from throwing oil up into the road draft tube as it spins. Look closer- - I think -there are actually two of those holes, but I might be mistaken. The sheet metal baffle goes across under the road draft tube and deflects the oil that's thrown off the crank. Leave the baffle out, and the draft tube will pee oil like it's on Lasix!
Edit: forget the second hole- - -I was thinking about the two headless bolts that hold the oil pump adapter to the block under the distributor hole! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Um, now I'm confused. The hole in the picture is really small - it's just above and to the left (looking at the photo) of the fuel pump. It's no where near 1/4" I don't think. But now I'm also worried because I have no idea what a baffle for this would look like, and if it's not meant for this hole, I can't think where it would go. I'll take another photo tomorrow of the whole block. Maybe I'm making a lot of mistakes? I'm feeling really overwhelmed at the moment. I'll post back tomorrow. Thanks for the help, I'm just not real bright at the moment. Time to sleep.
There are two holes if you look closely. The screws that go in the two holes hold the baffle that keeps oil from splashing out the road draft tube. Here is a pic with the two holes/screws marked.
Yes, they are 1/4" holes- - - -originally filled by round-head slotted screws- - - -("stove bolts")! The baffle goes inside the block, a squared-off piece of sheet metal that protects the end of the road draft standpipe from oil splash. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Does anyone have a photo of this baffle? I think I have a piece of metal I haven't figured out what it is yet - but it sure would be nice to see. I'm going over to the garage later today and will look it over again, I appreciate the photo pre'68Dave - I didn't even notice that hole below (although now I see it is in my photo), and that top hole is the same I think - but Jerry, there's no threads in the hole in my photo. At least I haven't seen any (and I've studied that darn thing for so long if I missed it I must have had more beers than I thought). I study it again today, but boy a picture of this baffle and the block with everything installed on someone's "runner" with a draft tube sure would be nice. Thanks guys - don't give up on me. There's some things this 45 yr old guy (I'll be 45 on Monday - geez) just hasn't learned yet and I feel like that "old dog - new tricks" saying is really kicking in!
I'll try to get a photo of the baffle installed on one of my stashed-away blocks sometime today. I hope you haven't installed the oil pan yet! I believe the baffle either has captive nuts attached to it, or maybe there are nuts inside the crankcase that hold it on. The screw heads are on the OUTSIDE of the block- - - -the baffle is inside! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
yes - unfortunately I have put the oil pan on, but I guess I'll just have to deal with that. It'll set me back a while, and I won't lie - it'll suck, but the most important thing is that I learn how to do it right - and do it right. I doubt the metal piece I have that I don't know what it is (I suspect somewhere around the clutch) is for the baffle then, because it was clearly on the outside of the engine. Thank you, I really need to see what this baffle looks like because I have no idea what it is. Photos would be so much appreciated. I'm not starting this (obviously) until I know this thing is right. I'm so glad I asked this question - and that people are willing to help. If I were to just have listened to the opinions of people with nothing really invested in this, I would have completely screwed it up. Can't wait to see the photo. Thanks
Here are some pix of the baffle on a 261 in my shop. The pictures are from the outside looking into the draft tube hole. I don't have an open block to show what it looks like from the inside.
The baffle is curved. It is snug against the block at the top and on the side where it is secured with the stovebolt. There is about a 1/2" air gap at the bottom. The baffle ends about flush with the rear edge of the draft tube hole. As previously stated, it acts as a deflector to protect the draft tube from sucking in splashing oil, but leaves air gaps to allow the crankcase to breathe.
If you use that dumb-donkey idea about putting the PCV directly into the hole in the block, get ready to use massive amounts of oil and change oil-fouled spark plugs on a regular basis. The tall standpipe for the road draft tube is there for a reason. It prevents splashed oil (even with the baffle in place) from getting sucked up by the PCV valve. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Currently have the oil pan off, baffle in and I'm cleaning gasket surface, should have this back together today. It's a good day to be working on the old truck.
That's it! I've got "installed" pics from a retired 235 spray-oiler block that I'll be bringing to the homecoming for machine work demonstrations, but my picture host isn't cooperating for some reason and I can't upload them. Drop me an email and I can send them directly to you if you like. Those screws appear to be #10, somewhat smaller than 1/4". Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
They were a hair smaller, but they were in the part and they tightened up real good. It was clear how it went in once I got it all lined up. I sure do appreciate all the help. That would have sucked to start it and have oil spit out (more than normal). Having some beers and a good cigar once this is together!
Originally the screws had lead washers on them, to form to the ruff cast of the block, for sealing. I have found that Nylon washers work fine, especially with a good coat of engine paint over everything.
If you take a penlight flashlight and look in the big hole and see the crankshaft, the baffle is missing. The baffle is about two inches by three , is curved and has two holes in it for attachment.
If the baffle was removed in a rebuild must a new one be installed? Could or should I just plug the 2 1/4 holes? Would that result in more oil coming out the tube?
FWIW -- Here's a picture of the baffle plate from the inside. This one is in a 261, but it's the same as in the 235/216.
Note that you have to reinstall it *before* the cam goes in or you can't get to it.
Yino18 -- The guys above have way more experience than I do, but having been into my 261 and seen how all of this works from the inside, I think you would be far better off just reinstalling the baffle plate because otherwise, a lot of oil is going to get splashed up the draft tube. I think a lot of us see a little slobbering of oil *with* the baffle plate. Imagine what kind of mess there will be *without* it ...
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
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