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#1256992 03/01/2018 8:30 PM
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
F
New Guy
New Guy
F Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
the original 216 in the 1939 1.5 ton is weak. I know where there is a 235 out of a 1967 pu, tip-top shape. I find that the 216 is a 2nd generation L6 and 1967 235 is a 3rd generation L6 motor. Am I looking for trouble if I try to bring this together? Bellhousing, front and rear mounts, generator-belt-water pump? Haven't found any specific info on the 1967 235 motor. I'm not that sharp a mechanic, I know there's been slight changes over time on this motor. I'm slowly working my way through this 39, just wanted to make it safe to drive, what a mistake! Any comment will be helpful. I'm sure there is a discussion on motor swaps here, I just couldn't find it. Any mechanics around Wenatchee that would want to help me? This trk carried 2 horses way up into the Cascade Mnts. for the forest service out of Winthrop in the Methow Valley for years, went through several hands. (as a firewood hauler I'm sure). One owner installed the 2 speed rear end, until I found out, I assumed the forest service ordered it that way. Everything under the cab is 1938 TB series, the cab and motor are 39 and the headlites are 1940. I'm not going to assume it came from factory that way but it probably did. Has the heavy duty round blinkers on top the fenders. Brewster Green out the factory,. good-nite I'm gonna try to insert a picture of Crusty.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
There is no such animal as a "1967 235". The last production on that engine was in 1962, I believe. 63-up engines would be 194, 230, 250, or 292 cubic inches, and they share no common parts with 235's. While an engine in that series could be adapted to your vehicle, it would require an entire driveline change: transmission, driveshaft, and possibly rear end as well as the engine, and the fabrication of motor mounts and other modifications.

A 1954-62 235 wouldn't be a bolt-in swap, but it would be much simpler, as your existing bellhousing, transmission and rear axle could be used. It would probably require a relocation of the water pump if a late 55 to 62 engine was installed. A kit is available to do that, as it places the fan in the correct location to work with the radiator on the pre-1955 vehicles.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 910
3
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 910
Better to have the original engine rebuilt.

I know that a 54 235 will bolt in and replace the 235 in a 1946 2 ton truck.
Then all the small things make it not worth it when you have the original
engine to rebuild. My son had to change throttle linkage, oil pressure
gauge. Lucky I found a NOS GMC oil pressure gauge. Then the 46 had
an 11" clutch, but the 54 flywheel ran 10" clutch. The new clutch works
ok but will it stand up as well who knows.

It is not can I make it fit.
Not even is it a direct bolt in.
What it is that even if it is a direct bolt in there will be so many things that
will not be found out until you start and then after spending a lot of
money, it is hard to change course and throw all that money away and
go back to keeping it original.
Jeffrey


Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,877
Original is good if you like original.

If you like the original look and don't mind some subtle improvements then a later model 235 or ideally a 261 is a very smart upgrade.

I expect you'll have more money in rebuilding the old 216 than it justifies, unless you appreciate and desire "original".
A 261 on the other hand will also cost something to rebuild (perhaps slightly less?) in the end you have a desirable engine, more power, slightly better with insert bearings and full pressure oil, even full flow filtered oil if you want.

The changes necessary to install the later 235 or 261 in your truck are small and well documented, in my opinion not a big deal or expense.

I would say spending money on "original" if that's not what you really desire would be wasted. Having been down that path myself; rebuilding a 235 before learning about the 261, in hind sight I would have liked the 261. If I had rebuilt an old 216 without understanding the later engine options I would really be kicking myself.
If for some reason you don't like the more modern stuff and want to go back to "original" that's still an option. The 235 or 261 doesn't require any cutting or anything that can't be easily undone.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 28,674
The truck is a mixmaster anyway, not some pristine trailer queen that's going to win points for originality at a concours show somewhere. Find a good-running 235, or at least a rebuildable core, and do the small modifications necessary to make it fit. If a 261 is available, nothing beats a few more cubic inches, particularly in a truck that still works for a living.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!

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