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Jul 21st, 2025 | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 | tips/tricks from you pros on taking the oil can effect out of the back of my cab. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 | Shrinking and stretching the metal will stop it. The key is to determine where to do which.
Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | I thought everyone knew by now that Photobucket stinks and to NEVER use it. We can't get past the pop ups, etc. When YOU log on, YOU don't get that I guess, we do when we use your link. Use something else or just use the wonderful image posting we now have! (attachment manager)
Photobucket has left thousands and thousands of posts, all over the internet, useless. It is the scourge of the earth.
Please ALWAYS state the year, make and model of truck when you start a post.
Anyway, if you don't have the means to stretch/shrink or don't want to take a chance on making it worse; Rivet or weld a piece of angle iron on the inside behind seat, across oil can area and onto non oil can area.. I can't see the area you speak of, so can't go any farther with explanation.
If you don't like that idea, screw a big piece of 3/4 plywood to the inside of cab, shaped accordingly. The rivets or screws may be hidden by the bed. I don't know.
In other words, it needs backing or stiffening usually done by factory dimples/ribs/cross breaking/beading or double wall. The area may already have this and it has been "compromised" with a speaker hole or some other modification.
Is it making noise or what? Ask yourself why no one else has this problem. Something damaged, changed, removed, added, cut, bent?
Stretching/shrinking is for pro's ONLY. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | "Stretching/shrinking is for pro's ONLY."
Bartamos,
I would like for coolwhip to know that shrinking body sheet metal requires only an oxy-acetylene torch with a very small tip, a dolly block that matches the desired metal contour, body hammers, a wet shop rag, someone to demonstrate the technique and some practice on scraps. It can definitely be learned and successfully done by an amateur.
When I started restoring my '36 Chevy pickup in the early 1970s bed parts were not being repopped like they are today. So my bed sides, that looked like a sack full of rocks from decades of shifting loads, were very stretched and had to be shrunk to make them flat again. Metal shrinking was needed on plenty of other body panels as well. I was able to do that without any bondo using the simple technique I learned in an evening adult education auto body repair class. In fact, on a single wall truck bed, where both sides are visible, any use of bondo would look really nasty. In any event, bondo application is not really body repair but is dent filling/hiding. The dents are still there.
You can do it coolwhip. I'd be glad to describe the technique in detail for you if you are interested.
Ray
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | OK, stretching and shrinking is for a practiced person with the necessary training and skills. It's possible coolwhip could do it and it's possible he could chase an oil can all around the back of the cab or create the oil can from hell. I have practiced lots of stuff and still screwed up something. I would hate for someone to ruin a cab for an oil can, which may have a suitable fix. This is not a dent. This has not been stretched or shrunk by impact. (that I know of). It seems that the metal's properties may not need to be brought back. To me, this falls in the category of too risky if there is an acceptable alternative. (it seems to be a pretty old, maybe rare truck in good condition, not sure)
I may not be the only one who would not do it or trust someone to do it. A pro is someone who has done all kinds of that work on all kinds of metal problems. I'm glad you were able to do it with apparently NO mistakes. You are obviously very mechanically inclined with great knack. I would never advise someone to fix a oil can problem that way. Especially without knowing if it really is an oil can and how it is affecting daily life.. As I tried to convey, it needs to be known what it is and what caused it on a truck that is assumed to be designed not to oil can from the factory.
I am trying to be careful and give a DIY suggestion that will solve an oil can and not be an eyesore. So depending on coolwhip's skills, desires and equipment, he can drill some holes and screw some plywood on or all the way to shrinking/stretching with a torch or Disk.
BTW: You can make a shrinking disk from a stainless steel pot lid from Goodwill.
It really does depend on what this "oilcan" really is, where it is, it's size, what's causing it and so on.
Yar (or Ray spelled backwards), this a good discussion and commend you for offering to help/train the poster.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | That would make a great demonstration at the homecoming- - - - -why not come on by and SHOW us how to shrink metal? I'll be there showing people how to run a boring bar.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | I'll be there showing people how to run a boring bar.
Jerry Will your barmaids be serving tedious, humdrum, monotonous drinks to characterless, mundane, uninteresting customers at a commonplace, nowhere, wearisome establishment? Sounds like my kind of bar! I'm in!
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | Any bar I'm around will be anything but boring- - - -especially if they have a Karaoke machine. My forum handle is also my favorite tune- - - -after a beer or six!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,288 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2013 Posts: 1,288 | [quote=Hotrod Lincoln] I'll be there showing people how to run a boring bar.
Jerry Will your barmaids be serving tedious, humdrum, monotonous drinks to characterless, mundane, uninteresting customers at a commonplace, nowhere, wearisome establishment? Sounds like my kind of bar! I'm in! Hotrod Lincoln, "Any bar I'm around will be anything but boring- - - -especially if they have a Karaoke machine. My forum handle is also my favorite tune- - - -after a beer or six! Jerry" Yep, I'm in and this is likely gonna get you'all banned to the Greasy Spoon.
1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | Before I suggest to someone how to fix an oil can, it is best to find out what kind of oil can you are dealing with, first and foremost.
I consider there are two kinds, a tight oil can and a loose oil can, each will require a different method of repair.
Tight oil can
This is almost exclusively caused by body damage, whether a dent, glancing crease, or media blast damage, and is especially noted by displaced metal that will oil can when considerable pressure is applied, and may or may not forcibly spring back. When the body damage occurs, it stretches the panel throughout the dent or crease. A typical dent, whether straight in or a glancing blow, will have direct and indirect damage. The direct damage goes inward, stretching the panel as it goes. The indirect damage, is a much lesser amount of spring-back, compounded by the internal stretch pushing outward circumferentially, and you will see an outward bulge around the perimeter of the dent/damage. Although the initial inclination may be to shrink this outward bulge, for the most part this adjacent area is relatively damage free, it is mainly being spread outward by the stretch forcing outward.
Shrinking the center damage will start the process of relieving the stresses pushing outward, relaxing some of the bulge surrounding the dent.
After a bit of shrinking, using the shot bag against the outside of the crease/dent and some light taps with a flat body hammer or slapper from the inside will help to start manipulating the crease/dent back into it's original place. I would add that too much shrinking all at once may give you the loose oil can, so profile templates are highly recommended as they work well to let you see how the panel is reacting so you don't go too far too quick.
Tight oil can, part two
Where some tight oil cans from dents may be challenging to determine where to start your shrinking (if it doesn't have an obvious sharp crease to show where to work from) the following process will normally find the area that needs shrinking.... Cycle the oil can in and out a couple times in order to find the outer perimeter. If it helps to mark it with some painters tape, a sharpie, so be it, use whatever works. Now using your thumb from one hand apply slight pressure on a point on this perimeter. Use the other hand to cycle the oil can again, using the same pressure as before. Keep moving your pressure point around the perimeter and cycle the oil can for each spot until you get to a point on the perimeter where the pressure will keep the oil can from cycling, it locks it from moving. This should identify your sweet spot that needs shrinking, and be aware that there may be more than one sweet spot needing attention.
Loose oil can
This is typically caused by welding, over-eager torch shrinking, or shrinking something when you should have stretched, (or fatigue over the many years that has caused a larger panel/hood to settle). Any panel will shrink from heat, causing the crown to draw in from the surrounding area. This is especially noted by a loose, easily flopped back and forth oil can. This is fixed by stretching, typically in the area of the weld and HAZ.
Loose oil can part two
In some cases we'll see that a dent (or tight oil can) has actually caused a loose oil can in the outer reaches in the adjacent area. The direct force (dent) may have caused displacement of the inherent stresses of the panel (crown) such that it pulled at the adjacent metal elsewhere, resulting in a loose oil can outside the area of the dent. Here the loose oil can should be left alone and focus on removing the stretched area (dent) that moved the panel. Once the dent is removed, this action alone should correct the loose oil can in the adjacent area.
Nothing is a given, and oil cans are the most difficult to explain their repairs, especially over a keyboard. Pictures of the area help, videos showing the damage as you manipulate the oil can help even more. Knowing how it got there is essential to pointing you in the right direction...
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | "Before I suggest to someone how to fix an oil can, it is best to find out what kind of oil can you are dealing with, first and foremost.
I consider there are two kinds, a tight oil can and a loose oil can, each will require a different method of repair."
Good morning Robert.
Maybe I should clarify how the term "oilcan" was used in the body repair class I took. It was used to describe an area where metal was stretched. The most obvious example is a dented (stretched) area of a flat bed side, bed front or tailgate. Since the metal was stretched to make the dent, the metal must be shrunk to make the metal flat again.
Here's the technique I was taught:
1. With an oxy-acetylene torch heat an area the size of a dime in the center of the dent to bright red heat, very quickly shut off torch.
2. The heat will cause the metal to expand upward to an extreme degree looking like the conical top of a volcano.
3. While holding a dolly block behind the still red hot metal strike the CENTER of the cone with a body hammer, making the center lower than it was and now surrounded by a raised rim.
4. With the dolly block still in place tap around the RIM of the raised area pushing the rim down towards the dolly block. By now the metal is no longer red but is still very hot.
5. Place shop rag saturated with water on and around the area just worked on.
That simple procedure has the effect of thickening the metal in the area that was worked on lessening the "oil can" condition. For a very slightly stretched condition once is enough. If the metal is very stretched the procedure is repeated as much as necessary. This obviously requires some practice on scraps to learn. It's like tig welding in that regard.
This is an example of actual "metal work". Bondo slathering is not metal work, it is plastering that hides defects rather than removing them. The thing that made actual metal work appealing to me when I took the class in the very early 1970s is that the instructor described it as a "lost art". It seems that our antique trucks are also at risk of becoming "lost art" and deserve to be treated properly.
To each his own but I can't even imagine drilling holes in a vintage vehicle body for fastening plywood stiffeners to the inside. To me that makes the problem vastly worse because what was previously a repairable stretched area is now full of holes and exposed screw heads.
Last edited by yar; 02/10/2018 2:47 PM.
Ray
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Good info. Keep in mind that the plywood is not my first choice and was stuck in there for the low end of fix. In case a person does not have the material or equipment for other ways.
One piece of angle with rivets, screws or tack welds is my first choice without knowing more. Shrinking/Stretching seems to be the fix of choice for other members. Just not my way. I repeat that the heads may be hidden by the bed. Don't know.
There are probably screw heads and bolt heads that can be seen elsewhere. If this is a show truck, then it would matter. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,429 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,429 | On another project I've done, I used some flat hard aluminum and epoxied it to the inside of a panel. Gone now, but there was a Boeing Surplus store in Renton, WA that you could buy stuff like that by the pound. Lots of neat stuff like various grades of aluminum, titanium... You could use flat bar steel just as well. It worked well for me because it is in a place that doesn't show. Though I wouldn't call it a professional fix, it does work.
Dennis
40 Chevy 1/2 ton
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Dennis, while flat bar may work. Angle is way stronger/stiffer due to the 90 deg web. I don't recommend flat bar. A big piece of flat, thick stock did work for you but a bar must be angle. Something like 2 x 2 x 1/8 thk. Channel or square will also work. The size and thickness depend on what this problem is. If it's a double wave warped panel or some other change in metallurgy, my bets are off.
We still know nothing about this sheet metal phenomenon, and the size of the oil can, because Coolwhip has left the building. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,429 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 1,429 | Yeah, I see what you are saying. Mine was a fairly soft aluminum panel and used very stiff hardened alum flat stock. Not much of a challenge to keep it from oil canning.
Dennis
40 Chevy 1/2 ton
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 |
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 |
Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | He was on the site today. Maybe not ready to wade into this convoluted mess yet.ðŸ›Â
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 | sorry about disappearing. check in quick yesterday before taking everything but frt. fenders ,running boards and cab skeleton to be diped. its close to 4 hours one way it is a 1937 truck when I removed the bed noticed back of cab rolls in starts approx. 6-8 inchs in back cab corners and is about 2 1/2 feet high. no dents ,creases,damage by eye or touch . cab is completely striped. a smack with a rubber mallet it pops out looks like new, smack with flat of hand on outside to see if it will stay does not. thank you everybody for help and interest. I have spent days patching/welding holes so drilling more is not a option | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | As I mentioned as one of the possibilities is something missing/removed. Do you have the FACTORY vertical stiffening bars on inside back of cab? Attached to an under-the-rear-window horizontal piece and attached at the bottom near floor. There are one, two or three of these. They may also be attached to the cab back. This would prevent oilcan.
Big flat areas can be warped by patching and welding.
Stripping a cab could, possibly, maybe remove some structure that was stiffening the cab back.
Oil canning doesn't happen out of the blue.
Maybe somehow it will tighten up after reassembly. If it's not noticeable or making noise going down the road, does it need to be fixed?
Good luck. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 | I wish I had been the one to cause this. then I would have a reference to fix . i'm leaning towards media blasting,sanding in past. work has been done it in the past, can tell when I took her apart. I would rather fix now , then have it come back and haunt me.besides I would not be able to sleep . appreciate the input thanks | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | Understood. Just be sure it really needs fixing, those vertical ribs I mentioned can be replicated once you see what I mean and if they are indeed attached to the sheet metal back. I would assume they are. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | Hey, Bart- - - -your PM inbox needs a cleaning!
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,115 Insomniac | | Insomniac Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 2,115 | I couldn't get shrinking the metal to work for me, so I cut out the damaged area and welded in a patch.
Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 | re: mp&c shop projects checked out your link last night . WOW man nice work! will check out when I can give my undivided attention thanks for the time and help. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Wished I hadn't read your tutorials, Robert!  Now I feel the need to go over every piece of '52 sheet metal which I had earlier concluded where ready for someone else to finish. I generally know when to stop right before I begin to make things worse. I see live in Maryland. Any chance you could make it to Homecoming and spread your wealth of knowledge in person? It would be a big hit I am certain. Crap!
Last edited by 52Carl; 02/12/2018 12:21 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | Carl, about a ten minute ride from Headquarters for me. Did a metalshaping demo a few years ago at the shop for some of the guys during homecoming : https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149532
Last edited by MPandC; 02/12/2018 3:01 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 1995 Posts: 5,470 Bond Villain | | Bond Villain Joined: Nov 1995 Posts: 5,470 | Robert, Maybe we can do that again this year?
~ John "We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are" 1948 International Farmall Super A1949 Chevrolet 3804In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum1973 IH 1310 Dump2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley) | | | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 51 | Robert , mp&c VERY helpful / informative you took me to class! so very thankful . next time I am at welding supply will pick up large enough piece of sheet metal to mock up / recreate my issue . then heat, hammer,chase,cuss repeat. thank you again | | | | | Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 155 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2011 Posts: 155 | I have a hood with oil canning I can bring to homecoming! let me know
I have a 55 second gen!,, work in progress
1963 long bed step side driver
Just a guy who digs old trucks!
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