I have a '48 1/2 ton Chev. and after attempts of using new hinges, shims and hinge modifications I still can't achieve a uniform margin/space on the leading edge of my driver door. It's extremely tight in the mid section. I had a new cowl panel installed and needless to say it's not the best installation. I don't believe the sheet metal guy ever put a straight edge to the panel before welding the panel in place.
My question is can I grind down the leading edge of the door 1/8-3/16 and then re-weld the seam? The doors are solid and primed.
If you believe the TV guys your solution is the way to go. Good luck.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
“TV Guys” refers to all the custom builder shows on TV these days, ie; Bitchin Rides, Fast n Loud, Chop Cut Rebuild, Gearz, etc.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
There is a golden rule about cab repairs on these trucks. Start with the doors, then make the cab fit around them. You currently don't have a good fit at the cowl, and your belt line doesn't match at the rear, and the gap widens along the window frame. I don't see how cutting and welding the leading edge of the door will fix the issues of trailing edge of the door. What I have done when facing this very problem, was to adjust the door for a perfect fit at rear (parallel gap, lined up belt line). Then determine what the issues are at the cowl, then alter the cowl to match the leading edge of the door. It is too late now, but the way to avoid this issue when replacing a cowl is to temporarily attach the cowl with little self-tapping screws, then install the door. This allows you to unscrew the cowl if the door doesn't fit. Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I'm at this point now with my COE. My cowl is Cleco'd in for now. I think I'll need to get some self tap flatheads to clear the door when open and closed. Then I need to follow the Carl suggestion. Gap the back. Tack some supports to keep the door gapped correctly when taking it on and off. Then adjust the cowl and pillar to fit. I hate doing bodywork but I intend on winning this war with my truck!
"I always win." Working mainly alone I do not let my trucks win a war. Maybe a battle here and there but never the war.
As painful as it may be sometimes rework from square one is the best overall option. Most, if not all of us here have been in the same spot with one or another tasks on these metal chunks at one time or another. From my learning experience in reassembling my ‘46, one step leads to the next and they all have to fit properly or the ripple effect for problems just grows. My guess in this case door alignment problems will at some point lead to door latch problems, which will lead to locking problems, along the way rocker panel fit might add to the adventure and then will come fender, hood and grill alignment challenges. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks for the great and very useful response ! Painful is an understatement, but I'm sure I'll get over this obstacle too. Latches are rebuilt and the strike plates ready to install, but I'd have to agree that I need to do some more adjustments prior to their installation.
Finally got the latch and striker plate installed and the door closes great! Yeah! Before removing the door I drilled 2 small holes thru the door panel and both hinges so I could insert a #6 finish nail in the hole for future alignment after I'm done grinding and welding the leading edge. After removing approx. 3/16" and re-welding the seam I finally ended up with a margin I could live with.
