The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Overdrive question

My 53 3100 came with 3spd O/D. The PO had the cables/handle ect, but they were not installed on the truck. I know the tranny is in"O/D" because it free wheels? My question, are there any potential problems if I move it out of "O/D"? This tranny leaks a lot of oil and I do have a T-5 that I had in my other AD ready to go in. Another question, is the O/D tranny any longer than a 3spd w/o O/D? The PO did change drive line to open type, but stayed with 3:90 or 4:11 rearend.

There is a lever on the transmission where the cable attaches. Pull the lever to the opposite position, that should take it out of overdrive and you will back in direct drive. Is the leak at the rear seal ? If so just change the seal.

What kind of overdrive transmission are each of you referring to?

Unless you've got some electrical connections at the transmission, you're not "in overdrive". The car is just able to freewheel because the planetary gear in the OD is not locked out. Unless you set the parking brake or park in Reverse the vehicle can roll away, even if it's parked in gear. If you want to lock out the OD (and eliminate the freewheeling) pull the lever on the side of the tail housing forward against the spring and lock it into position with a piece of heavy wire or a few strong zip ties. It's possible to make the OD fully functional with a fairly simple bit of wiring, a micro switch at the carburetor and a Bosch style relay. You don't necessarily need to have the OEM switch and relay.
Jerry

Thanks bolters, that's what I needed to know for now. I'm not ruling out keeping to O/D tranny but, I need to learn how to hook it up and fix all the leaks.

I think mine in the 58 is a Borg Warner T-85. It came out of a 55 belair. Cletis posted a wiring diagram for the electrical hookup and it works like a charm.

I found a GM unit and a couple Ford units at a salvage yard a few years back. Hind-sight, I wish I would've bought them, since the yard is no longer.

A quick google search shows plenty on info out there for them.

http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Transmission/BW-OD/BorgWarner.html

http://devestechnet.com/Figures/bwrebuild.pdf

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/overdrive_parts.php

As previously stated, there is more to an overdrive than a pull cable. For it to work properly it needs a working solenoid and governor which are located on the transmission. The external components consist of the wiring loom, relay, kick down switch and related brackets.
The OD transmission is the same length as the early standard transmission which is about 22" from the bellhousing mount to the end of the tail housing.
6571, If your transmission came out of a 55 car it is virtually the same as a unit used in trucks. It would be a 4 bolt side cover Muncie with an R10 BW overdrive. AKA SM319
The wiring is common to Fords, GM, Studebaker, etc using the BW OD. The difference being the wiring color code.
Fred

Just got back from test drive after putting tranny in standard mode? Nice to be able to use engine compression to slow down, that free wheeling always seemed kind of strange? During the drive noted slight vibration in drive shaft? PO has shortened it, welded right in the middle? Also noted brake pull on panic stop. Any information on tranny #'s will be appreciated.
Phil


Transmission # GM 3 3845122
L104
6
R10H-1
WG DIV
Side plate #3845044GM

Fred, thanks for the information

Phil,
The date code indicates it is a late 64, probably installed in a 65 vehicle. L - Dec, 10th day, 64 - year.
64-65 transmissions were kind of odd as they had a different pitch on the gears compared to earlier units.
My understanding is that GM did this to get rid of the Chevy transmission whine we all got used to. It was a two year configuration prior to the introduction of the full syncro Saganaw which was available in 66. There is nothing wrong with these transmissions, get the electrical components operational and it should work fine.
Fred

One can never lengthen or weld in the middle of a driveshaft, shorten is OK, I would remove and have a proper one made right away.

Ed

I agree, now that I have this truck where I can drive it. I've got other drive shafts from previous projects that will work.

I like overdrives. I have them in all of my Y-Blocks. 3.90 or 4.11 is a good choice. Any faster than that, you simply won't have the power to pull it. If you have to lengthen a drive shaft, take it to a drive line shop and have them put a new tube in it. It is not as expensive than you might think.

A rookie at the dirt track cobbled up a driveshaft by welding two tubes together- - - - -it lasted about half of the first heat race. When it broke, the rear half of the shaft dug into the track and shoved the rear end out from under the car- - - -springs and all!
Jerry

Now you have my full attention! And while I'm at it, is it true that you can center the rear axle by turning the springs around. I was under the impression that the spring only fit one way. I understand that you can make just about anything fit with a little modification?