The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks ’62 C-10 upgrades

So, I’ve been contemplating some major changes to the ‘62. While the 235 runs well, I’m not used to being low on HP when hitting the road. I’m considering the generic SBC and auto transmission. Price is a big consideration. I don’t have the funds for a GM crate engine so it will be a pull out from something. Here’s where you guys can help. For ease of installation I will probably try to locate the engine/tranny as a complete running assembly. I don’t need a gas guzzling powerhouse but I would like to easily hit and cruise at interstate speeds. So, keeping the above requests in mind what would be my best options for what to be looking for?🤷🏼‍♂️

Note: I don’t need any keep it stock comments (I know somebody’s going to do it) and the T5 conversion is also off the table.

Thanks👍🏻

Well if you don't want to mess with a computer box for FI, nothing wrong with a 350 carbed motor. There are plenty at low prices. All the motors I bought were from running trucks. Ones I could drive and test for compression, smoke, check and smell fluids, and noise. Been lucky doing it that way. You have to realize that you don't want a 230,000 mile motor so unfortunately they have been rebuilt a few times by who knows who. So check it out good. Sometimes I have to buy the whole truck but actually that turns out to be good for me. You would be surprised at what you will need from it that you don't get with just buying a motor/trans. Little odd brackets and bolts and motor mounts, clamps, wires, connectors, TV cable, tubing, maybe even a cross member. A 327 is OK, a 305 no. Buy a truck that has something else wrong like dented up or rusted. Don't like to buy from a "hot rod" or "rebel war wagon" guy. Don't like motors with cheap chrome bling or old cop cars (sorry Martin).
When I buy the whole thing, I sell all the parts from it. Recoup money. There are 3 times more parts to sell than you think. That's why salvage yards make money. BUT........fighting off the wife is a chore. Gotta have a place to hide it. If you don't want to piece it out, sell the whole carcass with title. When I'm done with parting, some metal salvage guy picks it up for free, especially if I have the title. I sure would try to get a 700r4 if I were you. Don't worry about the shifter, just save up for a Lokar nostalgic shifter. They are nice to have.

Pre 73 has no smog equipment and much more HP. Not easy to find a good one of those. You don't need to have any of that for your era. Some folks know how to retune after smog/pump/equipment removal and you don't need a CAT.
That is a good reason for a crate motor besides the warranty. Some of them are $1800 I think. But need carb and accessories. Automatics are so easy to install and much cheaper to rebuild than manual. Everybody and his brother does it on the side.
So with the parts sell off from the donor vehicle and selling the 235 and tranny, you will come out with a free motor swap and sore knuckles.

I wholeheartedly agree you are doing exactly the right thing with your 62.

Do you have a manual in it now? If so, you have a hydraulic clutch. By going to an automatic you will get rid of the dual master cylinder and that makes power brakes a lot easier to install. Another plus.

bartamos, we're thinking alike. Trying to determine the difficulty of the X-Frame in all this. A 327 would be period correct but good ones are getting expensive. My '48 Suburban has the 700R4 and it does very well. I have plenty of room out here in the boonies for a complete truck/car to salvage out.

62Stick, yes it is a 3 speed manual and getting power brakes is on the list. Takes about a city block to stop now and that's with new drums and shoes at all 4 corners.

Keep the ideas rolling!

1962 had a 283 and a powerglide option so seems like X frame will accommodate your combo. I highly recommend that you take off the front clip. Much easier to mock up motor/trans in and out, fab up mounts and plan it all. Keep the clip together when removing. Radiator out and all up front stiff. Will be worth it.

I have planed to replace the 261 / 4 speed with a 5.3 lS engine and the newer automatic. Traded the old Gold Wing for a
2006 2 wd 1/2 ton that was out of service due to a rear end collision. My truck is awaiting for a almost bolt in swap front end from a
1976 pickup. this will give me power disc brakes & steering. all parts now sitting in my shop for 50 bucks.

In all I will get a modern drive line, much easier to service brakes and steering. Just find a newer diff with highway gears.
The old C-10 will look stock, sound stock but be safer to drive. Might find some bucks for the dash part of a new a/c system
and hook up the under hood stuff that came with the engine swap!

Just need to have one last stock drive this spring then it's coming apart.

Good luck with yours, and work safe.
Howie

I was going to mention the 60-62 front suspension swap but I know that Martin knows about it. There are how-to's with pics on it. It does not seem to difficult but a lot of hunting and gathering and heavy lifting. The torsion bar front gives a very good ride, but as you say, all that other stuff is hard to do with the T-Bar and is "free" with the swap. Let us know how it goes and how much work it was. They say only one new hole per side needs drilled to make it a "bolt on" swap. Sounds and looks "fun". I assume you will "rebuild" the donor front end somewhat before installing it?

My '62 C10 came stock with the 235 and a 3 on the tree. Some previous owner ditched the 235 and installed a 250. They also dumped the 3 Speed and added the SM420 4 speed.

When the 250 died, I dropped in the 1967 327 I had in the garage. I used a couple of '63 and up side mounts to put the 327 in. I used the existing holes in the frame and had to put in a 1/2" shim to take up the difference in height difference between the X-Frame and the Ladder frame. There are correct side mounts out there, but they are hard to come by. I also had to drill 1 hole per side in the front suspension crossmember.

A Small block Chevy swap works well in the '62 X-Frame. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

"A Small block Chevy swap works well in the '62 X-Frame. If you have any questions, feel free to ask."

It better work well, as I said, they had a 283/power glide option in 1962.

Will be gathering parts for a while. It’s good to know it shouldn’t be too complicated when the time comes. Thanks🛠