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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,264 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 6 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Nov 2017 Posts: 6 | I believe I have a short because I have no electrical working. I have a 1939 and the majority of the wires are frayed and need replacement so I am assuming I have a short somewhere. The question is, since there are no fuses to replace, how do I repair the short??? | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,374 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,374 | Either replace the frayed wires one at a time. or buy a replacement wire harness, which is what I had to do to the 39 I owned. I added a fuse block and a few relays too.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,112 | By no electrical do you mean no starter power either? If so the problem is more basic. It is pretty risky to play around with frayed wires. If I were just trying to run motor I would hook up a separate coil and bypass all the wiring.
By the way I think you should have one fuse, probably on the back of the ammeter. | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | You basically answered your own question. Frayed wires to me means original 1939 wiring. For safety sake and piece of mind replace every wire in the truck. New wiring harness no worries. 
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Also, because of the presence of salt air, inspect and secure all grounds.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 28,674 | You've got an open circuit- - - -or more than one, most likely. Shorts burn wires and/or blow fuses. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Unhook the battery before a mouse or a grasshopper sneezes and causes a fire. Time for a new harness.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 Sir Searchalot | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,988 | A short would be smokin' hot, as said. Burn thru a wire maybe. By the time you dig out all the wire looking for a broken wire, you are half way to replacement. Forget the short scenario. Re wire the truck. No fuses is a NO-NO. They omitted them back then because they didn't know anything about automobile electrical safety..... As T-Nix says: Only one fuse shown on 1939 Wiring Diagram, at headlight switch. (37-38, one fuse on back of ammeter)
There are VERY FEW wires on an old truck. You don't even need a harness sometimes. FLAPS sell 20' spools of all colors of primary wire for $7. Get a fuse panel from anywhere. Very simple. As RustyRod said, one at a time. Make "improvements"/upgrades if you want. We can help further if needed. Lots of pre-AD guys in here. Wiring is pretty much the same for all era's.
A, so called, "harness" for 1936-1939 is $230. So many different "kinds" of harnesses. If they don't have the connectors for headlights and any other places with connectors, then it's just a bunch of wire hanging off a small fuse box. Connectors are the male and female shells with contacts that snap into the shells. I.E. Ignition switch, tail light, stop switch connectors. Probably not too many, if any, used in 1939? Probbly most components are "hard wired." Just take a look, draw a diagram of all wires, and where they go, and study to see how easy it looks. If the only "connector" needed is a headlight socket, they are available for $5. | | | | Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 504 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2012 Posts: 504 | AJsdad;
Don't feel too bad. I stepped on the "I've got a short" landmine in my first electrical post too. 😠Words have meaning and we can be stickers about it.
Right now you're just polishing a turd with that harness. Make or buy a replacement. It really isn't that hard once you start doing the work. It all starts to make sense.
Good luck!
Thanks
Larry
| | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 436 | When I bought my old '63 C10, the harness was a rats nest of old and new wires, cobbled together by what had to have been a Meth Addict. It would periodically kill the truck for no apparent reason and leave me on the side of the road. I knew enough to be able to sort it out and get going again, but it was annoying.
I took a 3 day weekend and ripped every wire out of the truck and built a new harness from scratch. Best thing I ever did. I never had any electrical issues with that truck again.
I highly recommend you take the advice offered and either buy new, or build your own harness. You'll be glad you did. | | |
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