The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 46 coil cover and flex cable

My 46 has a metal flex conduit that makes the ignition switch and coil essentially one unit. I would like to upgrade the coil but keep the cap and cable intact. Any suggestions?

The conduit can be cut, carefully, using a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. From my adventure I discovered the wires inside the conduit were cloth wrapped and the cloth was brittle. Wanting to avoid potential problems afterward the wires were replaced. I went through this learning experience and discovered one task leads to another and another and more. The result was before I was done the ignition switch needed to also be carefully disassembled. All doable, but more time involved than I expected. If I had started with the stock and complete assembly I would have kept it. At that time, I was unable to find one, but did find an ignition switch and connected conduit with the wires and no coil. Taking the ignition switch apart is a little tricky and needs to be carefully done to avoid breaking the Bakelite insulator inside the lock cylinder. Good luck!

Were you able to put in a new coil and retain the original coil cap with the attached cable?

I have an electrolock assembly with no key, if someone needs one.

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The Electrolock coil has at least one of the the primary winding connections on the bottom. You won't find a replacement coil with that wiring setup, as later designs have both primary wire connectors on the top.
Jerry

I would keep the original electrolock assembly. New NOS and NORS compatible coils come up on ebay quite frequently at prices cheaper than the modern Chinese replacement coils.

No. As someone reported above, that was not possible.

My preference would have been and remains to keep the original 6 volt electro lock design.

As Hot Rod said, you will not find an after-market coil that works but you can ‘Fake It’. I used an after-market coil. Cut off a short piece of exhaust pipe that fits inside the coil cap. Grind open the other end a bit and epoxy onto the bottom (top?) of and after-market coil. Use file, Dremel, etc. to duplicate the coil cap locking slots of the original coil. Drill a small hole in back side of exhaust tubing to rout primary ignition wire down the back side of coil where it does not show. I did this so that I could keep the original look with an after-market 12-volt coil.

Thanks for that suggestion, just what I needed to make this work. My goal is to do what I can to beef up my starting power short of going 12 volt. I'm going to try an Optima battery and Pertronix flamethrower coil.

You do understand the “Flamethrower” type coils will burn up stock point/condenser systems. They are made for the Pertronix HEI conversions.

Thanks, didn't know that. Maybe I'll start a new thread about improving warm engine starting with the 6 volt setup.