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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 3 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 3 | Hi, I'm new to the Sovebolt forums. I have a few questions that I'm hoping you can help me with. I'm in the process of purchasing a 1951 Chevy 1ton (3800) cab/chassis with dual rear wheels. The engine is inop. What I would like to do is make the truck more drivable (comfortable), as fuel efficient as possible, keep old body as is (rust and all), safe (braking, steering) and capable of easily pulling a small vintage travel trailer (16-18'?).
I don't know whether it is better to add on all the 'necessary' mods or consider a chassis swap. In looking at add ones it seems like aftermarket suppliers of engine conversion kits, etc. cater to the more prevalent 1/2 ton Chevy. This is the first hurdle - finding aftermarket suppliers for the 1 ton. But, maybe the chassis for the 1/2 and 1 ton are the same except for length?? Or, if better to swap to a late model Chevy chassis, which one? And, does anyone have experience doing this? It seems in the long run that the chassis swap may be cheaper and provide extras like the V8, power brakes, power steering, etc. Please keep in mind my '51 is a dually and I hope the wheelbase and front tread width will be similar and identical, respectively. Any and all help most certainly appreciated!!! | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 A teacher, but always an apprentice. | A teacher, but always an apprentice. Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 2,168 | To do what you need will create a lot of work whichever way you go. Hopefully someone like Grigg will weigh in as he has updated these old girls before to be able to do what you expect. Discs, diesels, etc.
As for the frame swap, you need pretty good fabrication skills to tackle this. I tried it when I was younger with a 1/2 ton and it chewed me up and spit me out. I could do it now after 10 years more knowledge and fabrication practice, but green horns shouldn't jump in that deep end. Know what you're doing or get someone who knows how to help. Speaking from experience I'd hate for you to get frustrated, lose interest in your ride, sell it, lose money and then have to start over one day. Now I'm going the more "restored" route and I am enjoying it a lot more. Mind you, my 1 ton won't be flying down the 3 lane pulling a trailer. My 70 c10 will be doing that 😉
Regarding frames, the 1/2 ton and 1 ton frames have huge differences. Width, length, form, they are not interchangeable.
Last edited by Fox; 11/14/2017 5:50 AM.
| | | | Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,393 Camp Commandant | Camp Commandant Joined: Nov 2000 Posts: 1,393 | Zsculptor, First off welcome to the site and glad you could join us. You may want to go back up to the Welcome Center and post there first. Introduce yourself and tell us about your truck and maybe how you came about it. Then, start your own thread here or even in Big Bolts describing your project and plans for your truck. Your post will be seen by a lot more folks who can help and answer some of your questions. Again, welcome and good luck with your truck.
Fox, as always, I am waiting for each one of your updates on your trucks. Still doing amazing work and I too cant wait to see some color on it. Congrats.
~ Billy Old Dominion Stovebolt Society: Exotic Animal Division 1946 Chevrolet Cab Over Engine | In the Gallery | Video | More pictures1959 GMC 860 | Pictures1950 GMC 450 Flatbed W/W, Air Brake equipt (25% Owner) | Pictures1950 Chevrolet 3800 | PicturesI've got a trailer and I'm not afraid to use it! | | | | Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 68 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 68 | Welcome Zsculptor we have pretty much the same truck you and I. I think the first decision is if this is the truck you want to work with. Big money and time saved by starting with the truck you want instead of trying to convert one into another. Search the forum for info from Grigg's and Fox these guys are solid gold.
These trucks worked fine for many years but there have been improvements since. Upgrading the rearend and going to discs on the front will give you better brakes and gear sets available along with more readily found replacement parts and if you're like me and have 700-18 tires a change to more than one choice of tire would be nice. Once you get past the running gear, replacement parts are not as big a hurdle.
6 cylinders are more than enough to move this truck and the engine compartment is not overly spacious.
There is a lot of info on this site, you are in good hands now.
Chuck
Last edited by Gooberdog; 03/23/2017 2:29 PM. Reason: spelling
| | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 3 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 3 | Thank you!
Yes, this is a huge project for me Your forum gave me the courage to take on this project. I picked up the '51 Chevy 1-ton this weekend. I understand it was a dump truck in SD. Body is in great shape. Yeah, it's got bumps, dings and graffiti but she's solid. I'm excited about getting her back on the road. I think once I get the floor pan patched up I can start tearing down the fenders, hood, etc. to get the engine and trans out. But, in the meantime I need all the help I can get in developing a plan for drivetrain, suspension and brakes. What engine would be best? How to mount the new engine? What transmission would be best (gas efficient yet easily pull a small vintage travel trailer wherever we wanted to go comfortably and ease of mind on reliability). Where to get disc brakes for the 1-ton? How to address issues with wheel fit (would love similar look of these old wheels). And best suspension mods (remove springs, new springs, springs from 1/2 ton, or ???)
It sounds like the best approach is to keep the original chassis and make the drivetrain, brake and suspension mods with kits (if they are available). I'm not a fabricator.
If anyone has any experience with the mods I hope to make on these 1-ton beauties I'd most certainly appreciate your help!! (The truck most certainly will not be carrying 1-ton loads, I just really like the looks of the dual wheels).
Suggestions for a plan of approach are also most welcome. The budget is "low buck truck". | | | | Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 3 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Mar 2017 Posts: 3 | It's been months since my initial post, so a little update on the 3800. I decided to keep the cab on the original chassis. Sometimes I wonder if that was the best way to go, but no turning back now. What's been done: New floor pans, disc brakes and booster from Hollister’s, front axle dropped 3” by Nostalgia Sid's, new and modified rear leaf springs from Posie's (hopefully softer ride and drop 3”), new front leaf spring main by Eaton, LQ4 engine with 4l80e trans (yet to be installed), '83 Chevy c30 rear axle with 3.7 ratio (in process of making new leaf spring hangers - chassis 36” wide and axle perches 38” with no room to move them outboard), cab gutted and wormy chestnut installed behind where bucket seats from an old Lincoln will be installed and some on the cab ceiling with leather inserts to match seats. Lots of head scratching! Currently trying to figure out installation of power steering. Hollister may provide the answer with their kit for 3800s. Another one I haven't yet figured out are the wheels. I picked up some Accuride 29361 (chart indict a they are the same as 29588) rollers that I think came off an early teens Chevy dually. These wheels use the swivel nut whereas the '83 c30 used a clamping plate. Sooo, not sure if I can use these wheels on the '83 c30 axle. Also want to make sure wheel studs will be the same on the front and rear so haven't installed new studs on Hollister's disc brake kit yet. I'm fine with changing out the '83 wheel studs to something else if that is possible to match the Accuride rollers I picked up for next to nothing. So, if anyone has suggestions on a radiator, wheel/axle issue, power steering...please chime in. Oh yeah, installing the engine and trans in the 3800. I have universal crossmembers for the engine and transmission along with an LS engine mount conversion kit. Installing an engine correctly is way out of my league so I’m going to need to find someone competent to do that job.
Last edited by Zsculptor; 11/13/2017 9:27 PM. Reason: Typo
| | | | Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 28 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2017 Posts: 28 | On the disc kit did you find used parts or buy them new? I was considering that kit but never got around to looking up the parts to find out how much it would cost in the end.
55 3800 | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 Bolter | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,442 | Look into electric power steering. A bit pricey but seems easy enough to do. Lots of progress made since your last post. ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2011 Posts: 70 | Wow- Zaculptor, that’s an impressive leap in only 3 posts! Awesome collection of parts you have too and should get what you want it to do done. There’s a hipo (hot rod) section here on stovebolt that may be a better spot for you to post in? I have a 51 gmc 1 ton, it’s going more traditional but I really like your plan. Don’t forget to post or link some pics.
1951 GMC 250 Open Express 1968 C10 Suburban 1971 C20 Pickup
My Dad told me "Son, never hit a man in anger- unless you're certain you can get away with it"
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