The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Body parts

It looks like I maybe in a position to start repairing my trucks body work this spring. Who do you guys recommend for patch panels etc. I know about LMC, I’ve used them in the past. Just looking for other options. Oh yeah it’s a 1967 c10.

most of the patch panels come from the same source and often require "massaging", so go with whoever gives you the best price and/or discount. LMC, Classic Parts, Bowtie Bits, Brothers, etc., are all resellers.

Also, give the "Search" function on the upper right portion of the page a try...You'll see literally thousands of versions of this same question answered in great detail.

Best,

Jim

I've had the best luck with Truck and Car Shop out of Orange, CA. Only thing that irritates me is they don't quote the shipping until after you place the order. They call you back with the quote. I can't wait that long so I place my orders at night and call the next morning to put fuel on the fire. But, shipping has always been reasonable.

Thanks guys. I’ve bought patch panels in the past from Victoria British which is part of LMC. They weren’t as thick as the original metal but worked ok. That was several years ago. Some of there other parts didn’t seem to be as good a quality as other companies however.

apples and oranges from Victoria British you want the HMC panels that use the original tooling in jolly old England.
the steel craft parts are of a lesser quality.

for the stovebolt all the panels are reproductions so that isn't an issue

No lie there. My friend in Ireland will ONLY use HMC panels when restoring mini coopers.

Be specific about what panels that you plan on replacing. I have some info on some of the horrible fitting ones and how to avoid the headaches which I endured.
Carl

Inner & outer rocker panels, cab supports, cab corners (both sides), outer cab floor (both sides),
Rear cab floors, front inner fender. I’m sure once I start I’ll find more that will be needed, maybe doors. Sounds like a lot but the truck really is in pretty good drivable shape.

Wow! It may be cheaper and easier to get another cab?

Probably wouldn’t be. Most of the unrestored 1967 c10s around here are just as bad or worse. It really isn’t as bad as it sounds. It just has the typical rusted areas that these trucks have after 50 years. It’s a great running truck and needs to be fixed. I’ve had numerous people try to buy it from me over the years but I like it to much at this point to sell it.

This summer a guy working on the road in front of our house offered $3000 to take it off my hands. That was tempting I have to say.

Well then, the above post is what I agree with in my experience. In a way, it's fun to put in a patch. It's like a puzzle piece. Some are harder than others. Be sure to get the item being patched on a table or lift cab high, sit in a chair or work at a good comfortable position. You will do your best work that way. Cut out the bad, cut the patch a little larger and then gently die grind the edges of the patch, slowly getting closer and closer to a butt tight fit.

I assume you know all the rest of the procedure. Welding and such.

As far as fit, sometimes the truck is out of whack. The patches are made to fit the generic/nominal tolerance truck model. Usually there are no major adjustments to the patch.
We all have to "make it work" by whatever it takes. Donor parts are nice sometimes.

To be honest this will be my 1st attempt at doing any major body work. I substitute teach in our local school district. Several years ago I worked for one of the auto body teachers at our local votech school. They let me bring my 1969 MG Midget in to be worked on. I got the chance to help the students work on it while I was there. I know it’s not easy but I know several people who have done body work who can give me pointers. I wish I could get it into the votech but they mainly deal with collision work on newer cars which is understandable. That’s what most of the students will be working on.

Blue,
I will be jumping into the same pit very soon. I will be replacing my entire floor pan, outer rockers, and cab corners too. I have a plan and I will be sharing it during the holidays on the project journals hopefully. Measure everything once, twice, thrice and jot down these measurements. Then measure once, twice, thrice again to be sure you've got them correct.
Then before cutting anything...do your doors fit? Take this into consideration when measuring and before cutting.

Then BRACE the cab in every direction. My AD truck driver door doesn't line up perfectly because of this glaring omission. It is close but still bothers me despite hours of massaging and attempting to fix without starting over. Oh well, the c10 I will be starting soon won't have the same mistakes.

I think it would be easier for me to locate a new cab as well, but then the truck wouldn't be Grandpa's truck anymore. The old girl has been through a lot so I won't give up on her yet. 😉