The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Machinist Recommendation Atlanta/SE US

Hey Bolters,
I have a 216 engine which I converted to full pressure many years ago. I have it apart for a refresh and plan to machine the rear of the block to install a normal oil seal (replace the rope). My machinist that did the original work has passed away. I am looking for a competent machinist in the Atlanta/SE US that can do this work. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Larry

What's a "normal" oil seal? I'm not sure there's a lip seal made that replaces the rope seal on a 216, although it's possible to use a SKF part number 38649 full circle lip seal if you machine the back of the block and the rear main cap to accept it. Just be sure the counterbore is exactly concentric with the main bearing bore. I'm in the process of making an adapter plate to use my Van Norman cylinder boring bar to do that type of work by fabricating a surface-ground plate to bolt to the back of the block in place of the bellhousing to align the boring tool with the main bores. I'm located about 40 miles north of Huntsville Alabama near Fayetteville Tennessee.
Jerry

Hey Jerry, yes, that's exactly what I am doing. I already have the SKF seal. If you get your rig ready let me know, ok?

A good general machine shop with a Bridgeport mill can do the job, but the setup time to get the block dial-indicated in to make a straight cut would be considerable- - - -probably several times the amount of work necessary to actually do the machining. My project isn't very close to being complete- - - -traveling over several states doing warranty claim inspections is seriously cutting into my play time!
Jerry

I am in Lilburn, GA. This is an interesting thread to follow. I have had a couple of email exchanges with Jerry. He is very helpful. I have 39 and 40 Chevy 216. I plan to build the best of them. I am hoping it is the 40 as my truck is a 40. I will follow along. I have the transmission at Calvin Nabors in Lawrenceville. His son does a lot of machine work but I am not sure about machining for a seal. Mr. Nabors mentioned machining the rods for inserts and aluminum pistons. I also would like to get the information on 235 aluminum pistons from Jerry sometime. Anyway, Happy Thanksgiving. I am enjoying the threads.

Harmon

What did you do with the 216 to make it full pressure? What Beck's recommends?

Thanks

Harmon

Converting a 216 to full pressure rod oiling is a solution in search of a problem. It's also possible to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear- - - - -but it makes the pig look funny and they don't hear too well afterwards! If you bore a 216 block .060" oversize, a standard diameter 235 aluminum piston fits and the displacement goes up to around 224 cubic inches.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry for the input. I have been curious about the conversion more than spending the money to do it. The squirt oiling worked well for it's lifetime. The information on the pistons is invaluable. Once I can grab the 40 engine and get it back to Lilburn the better. I have been helping my brother recover from a surgery so I have not been able to go. All is well with him now. Does it matter the year of the 235 piston for a 39 or 40 216?

Thanks as always

Harmon

If your 216 pistons are the domed type, the flattop 235's will lower the compression slightly, but that will be offset by the bigger bore. Just don't try to replace a flat top with a domed piston- - - -there's a possibility of head to piston interference.
Jerry

Good to know. The 39 does have domed pistons. The 40? I do not know yet. Hopefully I can get that one home soon.

Harmon

Hi Harmon,
I converted my engine to full pressure over thirty years ago. Like many on this site, I always liked to experiment with engines and had a friend/machinist at the time that liked to tinker with engines as well. At the time, he was also a Tech Advisor for Inliners (he may have been aware of the Becks conversion - I was not). My engine is a .090 over 216 in which I run .030 over 235 pistons. We cross drilled the crank to provide oil to the rods and made brass plugs for the rod caps. We also made an adapter (mounted where the stock oil distributor is) which runs the oil through a 100% full flow oil filter before returning it to the main oil galley. The engine was also balanced. The engine has run very well in this configuration for over 15000 miles.

When I ran across the lip seal conversion I knew I wanted to do it at some point. Others on this site have done this and are very happy with the results. I am currently going through the entire chassis and drive train (including a 3:55 rear end conversion) using replacement or NOS parts, something I did not have the money for when I was younger/raising a family. While I have everything apart I thought I would re-fresh the engine, and while doing so go ahead and have the block machined for the lip seal.

As Jerry points out, there is certainly no rational economical justification for doing any of this (remember I said I like to tinker with things). If I thought that way I would have just dropped a later 235 into the truck thirty years ago. I guess there is also some nostalgia associated with this, as my wife's Grandfather purchased the truck new in 46 and used it on their family farm for many years. This is the same truck/engine that took her on many rides, fishing trips and developed lasting memories of time spent with her Grandfather as a young girl.

Probably much more that you wanted to know. Once I get the truck re-assembled maybe we can get together for coffee and talk old trucks.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Larry

I just took delivery of the piece of 3/4" plate that I'm going to build the boring jig with. Now it's going to be a matter of checking to see if the "surface ground" finish the supplier promised is accurate enough to be used as is, or whether I'll have to get it trued up after all the shaping and drilling to make it bolt on in place of the bellhousing is done. I suspect that will be necessary to assure the lip seal bore hole is accurate and concentric with the crankshaft centerline.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry and Larry for the information. Larry, the coffee sounds good. I usually make the Caffeine and Octane and the Northeast GA Swap Meet at Atlanta Dragway. Those are great events.
My 39 Chevy Hot Rod is still having the frame built at Pat's Hot Rod Fabrications in SC and the 1940 Chevy REA Express Truck is in SC on our family farm. On the truck I am collecting parts and information on that one as I would like to restore this one as it is a bit odd.

Thanks

Harmon