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#1243512 11/16/2017 2:28 PM
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 76
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 76
I've removed all the rotten wood and rusty bed strips from the bed.The angled ones were spot welded to the side of the bed.Whats the best way to attach new ones as I dont have a spot welder? The strips are stainless steel aswel nice and shiney

Last edited by Stooby; 11/16/2017 3:32 PM.
Stooby #1243517 11/16/2017 3:19 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
I think some people have reported that they bolted them on?

I am not a welder, but I also think that some people have posted that they have "plug" welded them on and then ground the weld-points flat.

I made the mistake of buying stainless steel side angle strips. It will be interesting finding someone to try plug welding them together (bolting them on might be the only answer?).

Maybe a welder will post information and clear-up/correct the speculation about possible options?

Stooby #1243567 11/16/2017 10:25 PM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,187
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,187
I plug welded the angle strips to the bed sides. However, I did not use stainless angles. I used 1" x 1" angle iron instead. Personally, I wouldn't weld the stainless ones on - I'd bolt them. Two of the fender bolts go through the angles anyway. Picture attached..
Attachments
Box Side 16Nov2017.jpg (130.84 KB, 243 downloads)


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Stooby #1243568 11/16/2017 10:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Thanks, Gord

If you were going to bolt them on, would you have the nuts sticking out inside the bed, or outside the bed? Or, does that not matter, because they would be below the bed wood?

Stooby #1243589 11/17/2017 12:08 AM
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,187
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,187
If I was bolting the angle strips to the bed sides, I would use button head bolts with the nuts outside the bed. Locate the first bolt so the nut is inside the stake pocket. You should be able to reach the nut from the bottom of the pocket. The rest of the bolts would be located so the nuts are inside the fenders.

Just for fun, here's a before photo:
Attachments
truck54_18_edited.jpg (49.14 KB, 220 downloads)

Last edited by Gord&Fran; 11/17/2017 5:22 PM. Reason: No descr of photo

Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Stooby #1243656 11/17/2017 3:07 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Since the fender bolts were/are clutch-head, I'll use the same SS clutch-head screws/bolts in the orientation suggested by Gord. I might have to grind a little off the threaded ends of those screws/bolts?

clutch head rear-fender bolts -
by the piece
.

Full SS bed bolt kit for $40 unpolished ($70 polished)


Stooby #1244295 11/22/2017 7:50 PM
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 96
5
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
5 Offline
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 96
you could use rivits

Stooby #1244299 11/22/2017 8:22 PM
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 225
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 225
Or, use stainless button head bolts on the inside of the bed through the angle strip (as suggested by Gord), which is what I am doing, and use stainless acorn (cap) nuts on the outside of the bed. In fact, I'm using a lot of s/s acorn nuts on any exposed bolts on the truck ...tailgate brackets, rear light brackets, spare tire mount, etc. Gives it that finished look.

Mike


Mike

1951 3100 5 window

Moderated by  klhansen 

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