The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New points, condenser--no start

I just changed the plugs, points and condenser in my 56 chevy truck (235). I can't get it to start. All I get is an occasional backfire out the tail pipe. First thing I guess you should know is that I broke the plastic insulator on the outside of the distributor (where the wire from the coil connects). Haven't been able to find a replacement so I improvised with a thick rubber washer. Don't know if this is acceptable or if it's my problem or what, but I figured I'd give it a try. The stud is not grounding out against the dist. housing.
I have the BB on the pointer and the rotor set exactly to the number 1 position on the distributor. I used an ice-pick type test light to determine that there's no anti-corrosion material on the new points and that the points spring is not grounded to the base of the distributor. All the wires are in the proper firing order (triple checked).
Finally, I noticed that with the key on, if I separate the points there is not spark. Isn't there supposed to be a spark? Don't know if my improvised insulator was a stupid idea and is the problem or if something else is going on. Would appreciate any suggestions. BTW: The truck has run perfectly for the past six years.

Joe

The first thing to do is to check to see if your improvised insulator is effective. Use an ice pick style test light, attach the wire from it to a convenient ground, and see if the points are interrupting the circuit properly. With the ignition switch turned on and the points open, touching the test light probe to the terminal on the side of the distributor housing should make the light turn on. When the points close, the light should go out. The light should flash on and off as the engine is cranked. If it's on (or off) all the time, there's an open circuit or a constant ground before the points can break the circuit. The insulator is the most common cause of that kind of problem.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry. I'll try that.

You did gap the points right Joe?

Yes. .019

Joe, you might want to double check that #1 is in the firing position. When you line up the BB with the pointer, both #1 and #6 are TDC but only one is in the firing position. You can tell which one by jiggling the rockers. The rockers for the one in the firing position will have some play. Your problem might be that your distributor is 180 degree off with #6 in the firing position instead of #1. Easy fix...simply turn the engine over one full revolution to get the BB lined up again, check to be sure that #1 is in the firing position, then reinstall the distributor.

Good luck,

Matt

Is this the same insulator?

https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC5...169MgrBtgjHufMzSCUTGpqG43sEaAgTNEALw_wcB

Joe

That's one version- - - -another style insulator has a slotted spanner nut that requires a special wrench to install it. That one does not have the inner nut that secures the point spring and copper conductor.
Jerry

So I did the test that Jerry recommended and the stud that passes through the dist. housing is not grounding out. The test light flashed rapidly on and off when the engine was cranked as it was supposed to. I took the dist. out and discovered that the brand new points I'd installed had come apart in two pieces. The tiny spot welds that were supposed to hold the two halves together failed. Put the old points back in and got the engine to fire up. Had no oil pressure so I know I didn't have the dist. fully seated into the oil pump. Went to address that and am having trouble starting it again but I think it's just a matter of positioning the distributor correctly.
Maybelline, thanks for the pointer on #1 and #6. When I pick it up again tomorrow I'll pull the valve cover off to make sure I've got things right.
Joe, thanks for posting that link. That part looks identical to the one I broke. Might be able to get that version to work.

I got the engine going and it's running very well. Like lots of people, I struggled getting the distributor to drop into the slot for the oil pump. The only thing I would add to what's already written on this forum is that the drop into the slot is not a big one. It's a little one--like 3/8 of an inch. So it's easy to miss it when it does go down where it belongs. Anyway, thanks to everyone who responded.