The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Headlight Switch Interchange

I'm re-wiring my 55.2. The existing headlight switch is pretty corroded. I would like to maintain the original knobs (and bezel) and eliminate the small buss fuse. Can I interchange with a 1960-63 reproduction headlight switch and still maintain the existing knobs and bezel? Also any recommendations on a quality replacement ignition switch (6 cylinder style) without a starter circuit?

TIA

better to use a 55-59 repro switch, which work well [I think eliminating the small fuse would cut power to the switch, shouldn't be a problem with that] - should be available from all suppliers .... the foot start type ign switch is not reproduced, would have to find good used, although the v8 type works fine - particularly if you're going to a V8

Bill

While it may cut power to the switch, I'm using an EZ Wiring harness, so any traditional light switch can be powered through the wiring harness. I am converting to V8, but have a separate switch. I was under the impression the fuse powers the dash lights. If I use a reprod switch, I would undoubtedly bypass the fuse section to power, since I now have a fuseblock and fusible link protecting my circuits. Another question I have is will the new style dimmer switch from the 60s work in place of the original. Then I can utilize a molded plug on that switch? I'm beginning to warm up to the idea of the V8 switch, bc it can be a dummy for my auxiliary starter switch. Thank you for presenting a different perspective.

had to look at the wiring diagram again - that fuse is for dash and tail lites, powered from the ignition sw so that those lites work any time they're turned on [ign on or off] .... things could be wired differently, but .... why? having had lots of these trucks, I've never run across a problem with that fuse, or one burned out

for the dimmer, the 60-66 sw mounts inside, above the floor - if you're into that kind of mod, should work the same as any switch

Bill

I guess the reason why is that the fuse block already protects the light circuit with a circuit breaker, so I don't need an additional circuit breaker in the light switch (just an additional part to fail) and the dash and tail is also protected by fused circuit in fuse block (so again, just additional part to fail). Not that these are necessarily bad, I'm just trying to reduce redundancy in the wiring harness and if I can accomplish this through a switch that will mount the original hardward (you know aesthetics are everything) then I'm up for that.

If you are so worried about redundancy, put a copper bar/tubing in place of the headlight switch fuse or wire across the clips. Silly, but if you have a hang up, that will ease it. Using the 55-59 V8 switch and the 55-59 dimmer switch is a no brainer. You mention reducing redundancy and ignore that you may be creating problems with trying to wire in/adapt non correct parts/switches? There are connectors for the dimmer or just use female spade terminals with shrink sleeving. I have rewired 55-59 with new harnesses several times using these original switches and newer fuse panels. Bill probably has also. No problems. "Additional parts" do not fail.
Converting to a V8? With an electric solenoid? Using a "separate auxiliary starter switch"? That's what the era correct 55-59 V8 switch is for. "A dummy for the auxiliary starter switch"? "aesthetics are everything"............does that mean the auxiliary starter switch will be hidden? Hard to reach?
You are confusing me. I don't see the logic in your plans. Maybe you are going all hot rod custom on this?

Dimmer switch connector American AutoWire PN: 500286. $5 When you say "molded connector" , I assume you mean the correct Packard 56 style used in that era.
The 55-56 Dimmer may have a different spade pattern (rotated) than 57-59. This should have no affect.

Great. Thanks for the expert advise.