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#124163 01/18/2007 4:22 AM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 327
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Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 327
As you can see from my pictures i have set of chrome wheels. In the winter the rust appears from the pits etc I clean them up but when they get wet the rust spots reapear, Do any of you know any good tricks to say coat the area?? I thought I could use something like clear coat or some kind of clear substance but i think they tend to yellow over time Any other products you can think of Thanks Peter

#124164 01/18/2007 5:36 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
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Shop Shark
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I tried clear coating a set of Crager S/S wheels for the same reason.BIG mistake,rust spots still appeared and now I couldn't get the clear coat off.Buy some Duraglit wadding polish and keep at it my friend.I got a set of painted wheels for winter

#124165 01/18/2007 6:40 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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yeah a good automotive paste wax can work too, if ya keep at it

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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#124166 01/24/2007 5:06 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 85
4
Wrench Fetcher
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#124167 01/25/2007 9:32 AM
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Shop Shark
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Most of my chrome cleaning is done on my 2003 Harley Road King. Unfortunately, even though HD is doing well their chrome sucks, especially here on the east coast of Florida. I have had most of my chrome replated (triple plated, which is bs if you read the tech tip Chrome Basics . Now, that being said the replated pieces require less care and feeding than the OEM junk.

At almost every bike meet, rally, what have you, there are a plethora of snake oil salesmen ready to take your money in exchange for the latest and greatest chrome polish, protectent, restorer, etc. After trying them all I still end up back with the old Turtle Wax Chrome polish and put a good coat of caranuba wax on top of that. The factory chrome still starts showing rust after a week, but the re-chromed stuff last much longer without extensive elbow grease.

I've had several different auto restoration "experts" tell me that they would never send stuff to so and so for refurbishment and will only use so and so holty-dolty chrome guy somewhere out of state at a premium price. Now, after reading Bobby Baker's Chrome Basics and Chrome Q & A's I believe there may be something more to this than meets my failing eyesite. Even if I ask my local guy how long he leaves the part in the nickel tank how am I to know? Am I going to stand there and time it and so what if I do? I have no idea what's in the tank anyway. Word of mouth, recommendations, such as you get on this wonderful forum, and trial and error are the only way to really tell "who's the best."

If you do find out who is the best are you willing to pay the rate and freight? As anyone who follows the price of precious metals today, they know that the price of nickel has gone up in the last several years, as has the price of copper; not to the levels manipulated by the Hunt Brothers ($50 per oz.), but high enough to increase the cost of the most basic of replating projects.

Take a look at Bobby's Q & A Tech Tips and decide how much elbow work you are willing to expend compared to how many dollars you are willing to part with for what will hopefully be a truly "hard chromed" part.

Finally, what I can't really understand is how my new automobiles can sit outside, on the beach, hit with sulfur water (for keeping the grass green for god sakes) and still doesn't pit. What's up wid dat?

Don


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But I tried, didn't I? ... At least I did that. RP McMurphy
The past belongs to the future...but only the present can preserve it.
Besides the noble art of getting things done, there is a nobler art of leaving things undone.
#124168 01/25/2007 8:31 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
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Wrench Fetcher
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petmil - was wondering about some kind of polish myself. i did find some good stuff at "the rust store" that was real good in getting the rust off my chrome wheels. the rust store can be found in the links section. i got the little spray bottle kit. you can smell the acid in it but it does work well. i used it and very fine steel wool and was very satisfied with the results.


54 3100 w/62 235 "Yosemite Sam"
Born a Jay Hawk, raised an Okie and resurrected in Texas!http://community.webshots.com/user/djed50
#124169 05/04/2007 1:53 PM
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New Guy
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try some naval jelly and fine steel wool. the posforic acid in the jelly will remove the rust and convert the existing rust to some sort of iron oxide that risists rust. should extend your periods between cleaning.

a good paste was will help keep the water out too after you get them clean.

of course aluminum rims don't rust


"So many trucks, so little time!"

Vehicle list:
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1 - 1967 Chevy 3/4 ton LWB 4x4
2 - do I dare say it??? a 61 Ford Unibody
#124170 05/04/2007 2:45 PM
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Ex Hall Monitor
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Steel wool or other abrasives heavier than jewelers rouge or chrome polish are not recommended on chrome.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
#124171 05/04/2007 3:51 PM
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Shop Shark
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Don,
the NEW CARS are prob. plated plastic...the salt doesnt get a chemical reaction .
just my thoughts


1952 Chevy Shortbed

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If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
#124172 05/04/2007 11:31 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 191
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Shop Shark
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Zoopseal will truly prevent anything from getting through.

#124173 05/05/2007 4:06 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
find the forum/post here on the Bolt that is going on right now about GIBBS which its said even HD guys swear by. It may help???? I think its in the General truck forum.


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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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