It sure would be easier to work on the frame of my 51 Burb if I could remove the body first. I'm just working in a small home garage, low ceilings and no lift. Anyone have any ideas how to lift a Burb body? Could I do it with a cherry picker? Where should I lift from to avoid damage?
You do not want to put "unnatural" stresses on that long body. There are welded joints that might break/crack. i dimly recall that they are at the rear top of the door opening.
There have been posts/discussion on this topic. I am now travelling, and searching on a phone is not easy. If no one posts information, I will look tomorrow.
I dimly recall that we made a wood-frame, and then used two 4x4 or 6x6 cross-bars to lift up the frame and then roll the chassis out.
I did mine by myself, in a regular size 2 car garage, with regular height ceilings.
I removed all 4 wheels, and let complete vehicle down onto wheel dollies, resting on the brake drums. You will need to use wood blocks to get your floor jack back out once you lower the chassis down.Then I loosened all chassis to body mount points. I then took a floor jack and jacked up the front section of the body dead center on the firewall, my engine and transmission were already removed. After jacking the front section of the body I went high enough to slide a 6x6 between the body and the chassis. Then I went to the rear, I jacked the rear body panel and went high enough to get the 6x6 between the body and chassis. Once this is completed your 6x6 are sticking out where you can lift with your floor jack and then once you have the desired height set your jack stand under it. This is where it gets sticky. You can't go to high on one corner to soon. I had to go small height amounts on each side working back and forth. Then do the same for rear. You have to get the body pretty high up off the chassis for the chassis crossmembers to clear. I used tall style "SUV" jack stands. I would also recommend you have the complete body bare, with no doors, trim, seats, glass ect. Mine was completely dismantled, not only does it save weight but gives you complete access to everything. I had to bring the chassis out of the middle, like tick tacking back and forth.
I did not access to a lift or a tractor with a bucket to get mine off. This worked. Thinking back on it now I would not hesitate to do this again but I would have had an extra set of hands to help shift and jockey the chassis out.
~ Phillip 1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project 1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic 1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver 1946 Chevy COE - Might restore one day... 1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
Ditto on lifting the body with a couple of 6X6's- - - - -4X4's might work, but the bigger timbers add a bit of rigidity and safety factor. Investing in a couple of "high lift" jacks (bumper jacks on steroids) would be a good idea. They can lift approximately 3 feet without repositioning anything, although you don't need to move that much in a single lift. Use one on each end of the 8 foot long timber, and a helper to operate the other jack- - - -lift the rear about 6", move to the front- - - -lift until level- - - -repeat as needed. Use tall jack stands to support the timbers between lifts. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
In my humble opinion, only the most skilled with a fork lift and most experienced should use this method to lift a body from the chassis. Serious irreversible damage could be done using this method.
~ Phillip 1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project 1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic 1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver 1946 Chevy COE - Might restore one day... 1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir "When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me Some TF series details & TF heater pics
I first built a large wood dolly with 4 heavy duty wheels to set the body on and to move it around once separated from the frame. First I put the Suburban on dollies. I then stacked up 3-4 cinder blocks just outside of the Suburban body (front and rear left side and right). I then had 4 friends help with lifting and we slid a 4 x 4 between the body and the frame and then supported the body weight on the cinder blocks. We repeated this at the back. After that we rolled out the chassis and rolled under my dolly and reversed the process. it was really not that bad. I'm actually getting ready to do it again now that all the fab work is done and I need to paint my frame..
I first built a large wood dolly with 4 heavy duty wheels to set the body on and to move it around once separated from the frame. First I put the Suburban on dollies. I then stacked up 3-4 cinder blocks just outside of the Suburban body (front and rear left side and right). I then had 4 friends help with lifting and we slid a 4 x 4 between the body and the frame and then supported the body weight on the cinder blocks. We repeated this at the back. After that we rolled out the chassis and rolled under my dolly and reversed the process. it was really not that bad. I'm actually getting ready to do it again now that all the fab work is done and I need to paint my frame..
Good luck and be safe...
Marc
Where did you locate the 4x4s so as to avoid denting the bottom of the body?
I think I have seen a similar old photo of and A-D Suburban, but there are additional welded/leaded joint behind the rear windows, necessitating a 4-point lift/hold. I think we had to repair those rear leaded-joints on my Suburban.
I think I have seen a similar old photo of and A-D Suburban, but there are additional welded/leaded joint behind the rear windows, necessitating a 4-point lift/hold.
I think we had to repair those rear leaded-joints on my Suburban.
The first one I placed under the front floor almost inline with the front body mounts. The rear was a little more dicey. I rested it under the back portion of the inner fender well. The edge of the metal did curl up some but there was not really a better place and the metal was easily straightened back out. I should mention that used ratchet straps to secure the body to the cart so that it didn't shift while moving it around.
I used an engine hoist to lift mine off the frame. I hooked to the area of the body that mounts to the frame (frame bolt area) front and back and made sure i didn't add any stress to the roof or sides. Worked like a champ.
I used an engine hoist to lift mine off the frame. I hooked to the area of the body that mounts to the frame (frame bolt area) front and back and made sure i didn't add any stress to the roof or sides. Worked like a champ.
I just did this today. I used "Slide-out Stabilizers" made to support slide-outs on RV's and travel trailers. They theoretically support 5000 lbs each and I welded a plate on the bottom for better stability. Once they're under the body it's effortless to crank them higher. They'll go up to about 48" but I only had to raise my body to about 31" to roll the chassis out. Best part: they cost only $39 for four.
I used some camper jacks and a 4x4 in the front and a role around bumper jack in the rear.My 37 isn’t all that heavy. I also used screw eyes in the ceiling and rope for safety. Distribute the weight over four points and go slowly.actually it was pretty easy.
These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.
1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel 1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler
** When I removed the body {from firewall to rear} from the frame to transport to body shop for full restoration of my 53 Suburban I ran a 3 inch strap through the door openings and the same at forward area of rear windows. Seemed to work fine. The body and all removed & restored parts are just about ready to bring back home to complete the full restoration. I discussed lifting the body the same way with the in charge body shop person. He said being that I had all the seams that were leaded in at the factory welded after lead was removed the body could be placed back on the frame the same way I removed it without worry. *** My question here is what are the thoughts of you Suburban guy's that have lots of dealings with the Suburban's???
When I did this: http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban15.jpg , I used 6' wide straps right where you see them. The only thing that got distorted was the front door, outer window trim. And I believe that was because I was coming up on the crane and didn't realize that I was getting stuck on the steering column and some wiring I didn't see. The rear window outer trim didn't distort and looks fine. I don't think you will have any issues, but, as with lifting any load, if you could spread that load, you'd be better off. In other words, the wider the lifting strap you use, the less chance you would have at localized deformation.
Make sure you remove the steering box and column before pulling the body , it will save you some headaches . Make sure all 10 body mount bolts are all undone and out. I was lucky to be able use a friends lift on mine . lifting body off I built a heavy duty body cart for transporting the body to the media blaster. body cart body on cart Make sure all wiring and body ground straps are loose and free from hang ups. bare metal on cart epoxy primed epoxy primed underneath on lift 3m body shutz used toe board and under body under coated I left the frame on my trailer and mounted the body back to it. putting body back on frame The wood body blocks should be 1 5/8" Tall x 2" wide x 3 " long. body mounting block dimensions Jim carters blocks i received was the wrong size .
Good luck and have fun .
Tim
1951 3100 Chevrolet 1951 Chevrolet Suburban Carryall Image "A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
Well I got the body off. I used a combination of suggestions in this thread. Jacked it up at the firewall with my floor jack until I got a 4x4 under the cowl, then jacked the rear up from the wood floor until I got a timber under the wheel wells. I found a used "high-lift" jack at a second-hand store that took it high enough to roll the chassis out. I was intimidated at first but it ended up easier than I expected. Thanks for all the advice!
I did mine by myself, in a regular size 2 car garage, with regular height ceilings.
I removed all 4 wheels, and let complete vehicle down onto wheel dollies, resting on the brake drums. You will need to use wood blocks to get your floor jack back out once you lower the chassis down.Then I loosened all chassis to body mount points. I then took a floor jack and jacked up the front section of the body dead center on the firewall, my engine and transmission were already removed. After jacking the front section of the body I went high enough to slide a 6x6 between the body and the chassis. Then I went to the rear, I jacked the rear body panel and went high enough to get the 6x6 between the body and chassis. Once this is completed your 6x6 are sticking out where you can lift with your floor jack and then once you have the desired height set your jack stand under it. This is where it gets sticky. You can't go to high on one corner to soon. I had to go small height amounts on each side working back and forth. Then do the same for rear. You have to get the body pretty high up off the chassis for the chassis crossmembers to clear. I used tall style "SUV" jack stands. I would also recommend you have the complete body bare, with no doors, trim, seats, glass ect. Mine was completely dismantled, not only does it save weight but gives you complete access to everything. I had to bring the chassis out of the middle, like tick tacking back and forth.
I did not access to a lift or a tractor with a bucket to get mine off. This worked. Thinking back on it now I would not hesitate to do this again but I would have had an extra set of hands to help shift and jockey the chassis out.
I did something very similar to this, it worked okay... Just wish I would have had a 2 post hoist!
