The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Trailer HItch Ball Came Loose

My son's 46 2 ton needed to be towed a few catering events a few
times the past 2 weeks. It's all back together now and moving on its'
own power again.

Though the last time the truck was towed the ball on the draw bar
came loose. Lucky nothing came apart.

We towed his truck using a tow bar from event to event from the
beginning of July to the middle of October waiting in the machine
shop to get the engine rebuilt.

Only thing different this year was I bought a new draw bar and ball
to use. I do not have a 1.5 wrench. So I asked the neighbor if he
had one of them he said I have two, he's a retired mechanic.

So I brought the ball and draw bar over to his house to get it tightened.
After the initial tightening he doubled up on the wrench and gave it
another tug.

Yes a lock washer was used. The only thing different then I ever did
before, actually he put some never seize grease, saying if this ever
has to come apart it will not be rusted on.

My son is going to bring the draw bar home soon. My plan is to
clean off all of the never seize grease. Then tighten it back up.

Then I thought about using some Loctite on the threads this time.
Though I never used Loctite on a ball hitch before.

Any ideas on why the nut came loose?

Was it the never seize grease?

Is it a good idea to use Loctite on the threads now?

Thanks Jeffrey

My guess is the grease. I use a 24 inch pipe wrench with a 36 inch cheater bar to tighten them. Loctite might be ok but if you use a new lock washer and plenty of torque it shouldn’t come loose.🛠

Would grease on the ball itself prevent friction while turning corners that might start the loosening process. Just a thought (that I've never done).

I always use never seize on all bolting.
It is standard practice in the Nuclear industry.
What holds it together is the bolt stretch when torqued to spec.
Trailer balls are at least 3/4 fine thread grade 8 material and require more torque than you think.
I'm thinking you did not have near enough stretch to keep it in place.
Check this chart out, a zinc plated, non lubed 3/4 fine thread needs to be torqued to 378 Ft. Lb.
Best way to mount a ball is, on the back of the truck and about a 3 foot tool.
Then give it all you got.

http://www.repairengineering.com/bolt-torque-chart.html

Don

I guess we were all typing at the same time.
Wally, I keep my trailer balls greased up all the time when towing.
No pun intended.
It's just a good idea as it is a moving joint.

Don

I use anti seize, and a high quality 1/2” impact to tighten trailer balls, never had one work loose.

Certainly seen some loose here and there in parking lots, probably they had used a not very long wrench and don’t realize the large torque requirement.

I'm happy nothing bad happened to you.

You didn't say if its a 3-piece ball or not.
I don't know about NY, but they've been illegal in Canada for 30-some years. The were notorious for the nut coming loose, even with lock washers and stuff like loctite, and causing dangerous situations. Don't know why they did that.

100 - 120 ft lbs or so should be more than enough to secure a ball on the hitch with a lock washer.

I'm sorry I can't answer your question if the ball wasn't a 3-piece.
I never heard of solid ball coming loose with proper tightening, even on "big rigs"
IS it a 3-piece.....? If so, get rid it PDQ!

I grease the ball and coupler with moly grease. A dry ball with dry hitch coupler will apply a lot of torque if it binds up. More than you can apply with a pipe wrench.

If the nut on the hitch ball is 1 1/2", the thread on the ball shank will be 1" NF. That requires a LOT of torque to keep it tight- - - - -like 200 Ft.lbs. or more. I use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, plus all the grunt I can manage on a 3-ft. cheater pipe on the hitch balls on my vehicles. Another option would be to stop at a tire shop that services big rigs, and ask them to use the 1" square drive impact wrench they use to change wheels on big rigs to tighten the ball. Just turn the ball mount 90 degrees in the receiver tube to get better access to the nut.
Jerry

Jerry is right.
Torque spec on a lubricated grade 5, 1" NF is 528 Ft, Lbs
A three foot leverage will get you well more than halfway there.

For a dry bolt the torque is 704 Ft. Lbs.
Use a four foot leverage on this and you will be good to go
But don't expect to it get back off in 5 years.

A good 1" impact can exceed those torque spec's and you then risk total failure.
Just looked it up and a 1" impact will do over 1400 Ft. Lbs. of torque.

Don
.

Good point, Don- - - -just one quick bump with a tire shop impact wrench is all that's needed, so don't let the mouth-breather tire jockey hammer away on it like he does with an 18-wheeler lug nut!
Jerry

The ball/coupler should be lubed, a hairpin in a .125" or .187" hole under the nut should solve problems.

Ed

Ed
Even with a cotter pin, the ball can still come loose and waller out the stud.
Castle nut would be better.
But in my feeble mind, Lube the threads,nut face and torque to specs.
Remember, you are stretching the stud to keep it tight, not friction.
Sorry, my Nuke side is coming out.

Don