The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Panels 'N Burbs '57 barn door striker?

When I bought my '57 Suburban a few years ago, it was missing the striker on the driver side barn door, on which the passenger side barn door catches. I hope I use the correct words and you guys can understand me!
I was told at the time that a front door striker would work, so that is what I got: it never really worked, the passenger side door stays closed but still moves and makes quite a bit of clanking noise, I was never able to adjust the pass. side door properly, I have to slam it quite hard but it never closes well (with or without rubber, by the way).
And not only is it noisy, but it is not water or dust proof either...
The driver side barn door closes nice and solid.
So, what do you guys say?
What shape was the original barn door striker? Should I try and find one?
What can I use?
Thanks!

As you may know:

1. The driver side door has latches/catches at top and bottom. This is the foundation of the two doors. You must be sure this door is not moving.
2. The passenger door is only held by the driver door, in the middle, at the latch you mention.
3. Once the driver door is tight at top and bottom, the passenger door catch can be adjusted in and out to obtain tight closure.
4. I have had many 55-59 suburbans and panels. The barn doors were not always 100% tight.
5. If you use proper, quality rubber on both doors, this will allow squeeze for anti rattle, weather seal and a semi tight closure.
6. The handle, latch, striker are same as front door.
7. These doors are prone to being bent by all manner of abuse. Which would aggravate closure fit. The hinges are prone to be loose, bent, rusted, sagging, need adjustment. This will cause your trouble to be multiplied.
8. Slamming the passenger door hard and still loose is curious. Sounds like you are not compensating for rubber rebound or have the wrong rubber or wrong installation. You will need new Steele Rubber Co. rubber for this to ever work like you want, provided ALL proper mechanical parts are present and doors and sills are in good condition.
9. You will need to carefully examine the situation to discover what exactly is loose, where and why. Be mindful that either door, or both, can be at fault together with the other items I've mentioned. Check the actual opening for previous accident damage/repair, etc.
10. I don't know what your "loose" classification is for sure. Loud rattling would be annoying and leaking would not be good.

I learned something here. I did not know there was any dust in Alberta.
Are you using a passenger door striker in the rear?

Bart's right, striker is the same as the side door, that's not your problem .... and yes, it's tough to get those doors working well, hinge wear could be a good part of your problem .... and the correct Steele rubber seal is money well spent, the corners and ends are important

Bill

Thanks guys for your answers, it gave ideas to look at this issue again, ideas and motivation!
A good idea was asking which side striker I was using: I was using a passenger side striker and could not adjust it enough; I switched to a driver side striker and now the door is held shut pretty tight. I have also added washers in a few spots under hinge bolts to straighten the door a bit, it also helped.
Now, I think I cannot hear the door rattle anymore, which is pretty cool. But I can hear other noises better, which will also need fixing some time...

And Bartamos, about Alberta, when it is not covered in snow, it is pretty dry and yes, pretty dusty. And then, go and drive on a dirt road with a door that does not seal...

Interesting. I thought a passenger striker would be the one to use. I thought a drivers side would not work? Upside down?

Well, that is the way it works for me, it has been 2 days already! And my 2 front doors close pretty well, so I am using the correct strikers there. Well, they close well, as well as they can on a truck that vintage!... No striker is upside down either.

Well done mon ami.