I can't find anyone who sells new gears for my 49 3600. Was in a barn for almost 50 years and is running really well. Took new wiring, completely rework inside, new fuel tank and pump, and it's awesome. Only problem is I can only drive about 40 mph. I might push it up to 50 but this old 216 most likely won't last long if I do that. I love the fact that is is completely original just like the one I learned to drive in the mid 60's, however I really would like to cruse at 50 or 55 without working the engine so hard?
One guy who seem to know a lot suggested I find a Corporate 14 bolt 3/4 rear end and make sure it was the right width. Is that good advice?
SWEET Sergeant At Arms: Old Dominion Stovebolt Society BUNS?!?!?!Where we're going, we don't need no buns..... 1950 GMC 450 1951 Chevy 1/2-Ton The GreenMachine In the Stovebolt Gallery
I agree with what SWEET has in his reply. I have a 1950 3/4 ton that originally came with the 4.57:1 rear end. I found a '68 3/4 ton in a local salvage yard and took the "third member" out of it. There was immediate improved gas mileage and higher speeds. I also put some steel belted radials on the truck that are P265/75R16. These two upgrades only cost me about $200! I found the tires at a swap meet on the last day when the seller was ready to get rid of them instead of haul them back home and the rear end was cheap because I was willing to crawl around under the truck to take it out. Hope this helps.....
I don't think those gears are any good to you. If they offer anything faster than 4.10 ratio it's probably not for your axle. Although some people claim that back in the day there was an aftermarket 7.73 ratio available.. I've never seen a picture of such gears.
The Eaton HO52 and HO72 axles aren't usually refereed to as "10 bolt"
This ad was for more modern, but through email they have claimed to be able to offer compatible gears for our Eatons. I am trying to get some detailed info and will share what I get.
Hey thanks for all the info, really helpful to get terms and dates etc. so I can start to understand. Was about to start going thru the wrecking yards to try and find 68-72 3/4T auto. Coach would love to hear your research on the HO52 ring and pinion. I would like a 3:50 to 3:90 if possible.
Why don't we as a group of 3600 and 1 tons find someone to make these. I'm talking about a ring and pinion which makes the whole process why harder. Than pulling a entire pumpkin and swapping it. Isn't there someone in America that has a casting/maching shop.
I have a pumpkin with the correct 4.11 gears. I'm busy with other things Brakes, Master Cylinder, and Seat foam. Mine could be used as a pattern for the first stage of Casting. What ever, I need them back.
Back a few years ago I went to our local, and reputable, gear maker Griffin Gear. http://www.griffingear.com/
They, or the "boss" I talked to, gave me about 5 minutes or less and flat told me they did not do "automotive" gears. I believe they once did but evidently not enough interest for their cost??? Just saying.......!
There are at least half a dozen full floating rear axles that are very close to the right width, with the exact same 8 bolt lug pattern. Dana type 60 and GM corporate 14 bolt are the most common - - - -in Ford, Dodge, GMC, International, and a few other brands of trucks. There's absolutely no reason other than bullheaded stubbornness to stick with the Eaton 3/4-1 ton housing. I've got a mid-1970's Dana 60 from a GMC with a 3.73 gear ratio and a Positraction center section under my 59 Burb right now. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The GM 14 bolt from a “cab and chassis” truck is best axle swap in my opinion. Width is perfect, lots of gear ratios available, some even faster than practical. Brakes are large, available, and economical. Spring perches do need moving. Better to replace with aftermarket bent steel ones that match spring width. Brakes as they come just fit, but replacing drums with shallower offset ones (use same brake shoes) and welding on a new flange for backing plate to bolt on a little further out makes for plenty of room between brakes and springs.
Don I've got a rear end out of my '51 3600 that I'm going to completely replace with an 8.8 out of an Explorer. I was told by the PO that it was a 4.11 but I've never confirmed it. Rear end is located at a friend's place down the road from me. If you'll give me a few days I can check it out and get back to you.
Buying, swapping, trading or whatever you want to call it is not allowed on regular forums. Please take this discussion to Private Message. Thanks, The Stovebolt Staff
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Oh man is it going to be hard to find a fix for these low “rear gears”. It’s my understanding this far, they have all been had or crushed. I live in the deep southern part of Florida. Guys at salvage yards are laughing that they have nothing older than 1985 trucks.
This is just another reason to not have a 3/4 ton.
Don😤😤😤😤😡😡😡
Can’t begin to tell you how much I hate the name Stovebolt.
