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#1237652 10/03/2017 10:12 PM
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 496
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 496
My Burb hit the road for the first time after replacing almost everything. I noticed today that the valve cover was leaking towards the front even though I replaced the gasket with a cork one and used indian head gasket shellac. I even flattened out the screw spots in the valve cover because I know those area can get deformed over time. Is this normal? I never had this happen while it was idling.

I also noticed that coolant was spattering out around my radiator cap. Now, its a brand new radiator with an overflow tube coming out of the neck and going into a bottle and I've never observed this spattering while it was idling either. Could it be a faulty cap or maybe just too much coolant (I filled it to one inch from the top) or something else?

Thanks,
Cody


1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
Bolter
Bolter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 7,440
It’s burping out the extra water it doesn’t need. Just monitor the level. As long as there is 1/2 to 3/4 inch over the top of the coils your fine.

If it’s truly leaking from under the valve cover try another 1/2 turn on the hold downs. If that doesn’t do it you may have a bad gasket.

Glad your making progress.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
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Thanks!

Thats good news and easy to fix.

Ive been driving it for two days now, going slightly farther and farther away from home each time. It's raining today so Im going to give it a thorough look over to make sure everythings tight and "normal"


1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"
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Renaissance Man
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Before I install a valve cover I lay it on the head without the gasket and look for gaps or bowed out sides. An extra head laying around the shop makes for an excellent anvil for hammering a bent valve cover into shape.
If you have a brass radiator, the leak around the cap may be from a breech in the solder between the tank and the part upon which the cap is screwed. I had to fix mine by heating it with a torch to remove it, cleaning up the brass mating surfaces, then solder it back on.
Carl


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Apr 2007
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I found that it didn't matter so much about the type of gasket, but that the tabs are straight, which you have done, and that all
the old material has been removed before installing the new gasket. I always scrape the head to make certain that it is clean.
If you are using the stamped covers, I assume you are using the washers with the extra metal tabs on the side that spread out
the load.
After it is installed, if it is still leaking, I check to make certain the gasket is installed properly, and like the poster above, I just give the bolt a 1/4 turn at a time until it doesn't leak anymore.


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'Bolter
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A 235 that is getting to much oil to the top end can be hard to keep dry.


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The little washers are not there. In fact, I didn't know they existed but they sound like a great idea! Wonder if my flaps carries them?


1950 SUBURBAN / SCHOOL BUS A.K.A "THE SCHOOL RUST"

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