The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ebay wiring harnesses?? Or donor?

Hey guys! My 1950 3100 project is moving along nicely and my donor truck is about to go. Should I use the harness? Or go ebay?

Off the donor was front and rear suspension, 350 stock motor and a th350 trans. With the front suspension done, my rear axle is just waiting on spring bushings in the mail. I've sold a bunch of stuff off the donor (84 c10) doors, fenders, etc and I want to get it out of my yard

I was thinking of taking the wiring harness out. As I started really looking it over, there is a lot that goes nowhere. Connections that just hang or go to nothing.

Is it worth pulling it all and taking off the excess?

What's so different about all the kits to have a price range of 50 to 500?

I need lights inside and out...stuff for electric choke, alt, distributor, lights, heater, wipers, future A/C. Using a 55 steering column if that helps. Using a mechanical fuel pump. Gauges, radio, ignition. Manual doors.

So...do I need a pricey kit? And, as a side note, where are risible links required or needed?

The '84 wiring harness is way too much work unless you know what each wire went to. Hours and hours of tracing to sort it out. Most aftermarket harnesses are labeled on the wire every few inches which makes them more user friendly. As for pricing, go with whats comfortable with your budget. There are differences in quality.

Well I see cheap ones and I know you get what you pay for...so how cheap is to cheap? I wouldn't think I need a lot of circuits.

I'm wondering about the connections for everything. Does that add up? A hidden cost of a new harness?

I'd use the donor harness every time, but I've been doing (and teaching) automotive electrical work for over 50 years. It's there, it's free, and I'm not too stupid to understand color codes and follow a wiring diagram. Your mileage may vary!
Jerry

Even though the donor itself is 30+ years old? Think I'd have trouble with the bulkhead box? Looks all gooey under hood. A sealer maybe? Perhaps I could strip down the donor box to what need... I was thinking my wiring needs were simple...lack of electronics.

Do you guys think it would be worth while to buy a cheap kit and build off it as I go?
Or use donor. Labor wide it wouldn't be fast but...i have a lot of time between my steps.

It would depend entirely on the condition of the harness, the bulkhead connector, and the fuse block. Plastic insulation doesn't deteriorate like the old rubber/fabric stuff from the 1940's and 50's did. The mid-80's fuse block will offer plenty of circuit choices for accessories that the 1950 harness didn't offer, and the aftermarket harness won't offer anywhere near the flexibility of a late model factory harness. Use the circuits you need, and nip off the rest- - - -just try to follow the original wiring color codes for things like lights, turn signals, ignition, charging system, etc. If you need to trace a circuit at a later date, or make some sort of an accessory add-on, just use the 84 wiring diagram- - - - -it doesn't care that it's a 1950-era chassis!

The 80's harness will already have fusible links where they're needed, originating at the starter battery terminal, and supplying voltage to the headlights, alternator, ignition switch, fuse block, and other essential circuits.
Jerry

Well, I guess I'll pull the harness and look it all over then. I'll post pics of any questions or issues.

Reposted, was still typing.

Bottom line is: keep the harness and fuse box. Take it off all in tact as possible. All connectors and all do-dad terminals. Then stretch it out on a BIG table/plywwod. Orient it like it was on the truck. Tie it down temporarily to be able to form it and measure lengths. Study what each fuse is for. You will then start to see what you need and what to cut off. You don't need a bulkhead connector necessarily for your old truck. Just another place to corrode. Factory did it on newer trucks for assembly line purposes, to build subassemblies. You will see that there are fewer wires need, as you said, for the old truck. Mount the fuse box above your left foot somewhere, with wires attached, and begin to mock up the routing into your truck. Some put it under seat I think on AD. Use schematic diagrams from both trucks to stay informed. Use the cut off wires in other places if needed. It takes awhile, working with it all, to see the picture. But you will see. It's pretty simple. Just post with any problems/questions. If at some point you don't like the whole idea, take it out and buy a prewired fuse box for a truck like/near your needs. Keep the harness in case you need to splice in a particular connector or special terminal for the 350/350.

You have three main branches on your harness from fuse box. 1. dash, 2. motor & front lights , and 3. rear lights... and a few odd wires like dome and tranny and column. A few direct hot wires with fusible links, as Jerry mentioned. Everything needs to be fused. More than the original diagram may show.
Then we have to discuss ammeter usage.

Thanks, I'll take the 84 one out. I'll mark all ends with what they go to and then see what can go.

So should I mount it the same way? Or is it best to have a hole and grommet?

Mount what? Hole and grommet for what?

The c10s box

My experience is that I mount the box in a good location and run the wires thru a grommet or two on the firewall. The front and the rear bundles go thru the same hole. The rear branch travels down firewall and turns back under and runs along the driver side frame rail. The other bundle travels along the drivers inner fender towards headlights/horn. Some wires go out other small grommets, depending on where the battery and starter are. You will have to look at some trucks in your era to see how original is done to give you an idea. They don't use a firewall connector. You can if you want and mount as a bulkhead connector.
The fuse box has mounting holes. When you bolt it on, you may have to use spacers to give room for the bundle(s) to come out side, top or bottom. Some boxes have the wires coming out the back so that's why it needs spaced off the surface.
I am saying all this with the idea it is mounted to the inside of the firewall above and left of your left foot somewhere. The actual location is your choice but many here have figured that out already on AD. Hope they chime in. Also search this website.

I got the harness out. Also got the steering column but I think I'm gonna use an older one to keep a 50s look.

Harness came out pretty easy. Dirty but it's all there. The only place I cheated and cut was when I was following the wires to the rear. At the gas tank I found a door that has been taped, a wire was cut and spliced so I just cut there. Maybe I can have a connection there?

How should I clean it? I heard of using dishwasher soap and water in a 5 gallon bucket. Im not looking foward to pulling the grimey wrappings off lol

If it's that dirty/greasy/grimey. Buy a harness.