Jerry (Hotrod Lincoln) and Mike B win top awards! Everyone has given good advice. I scratched my head some and decided running the 1X4 pine strips horizontally on 2 foot centers was a good plan (Jerry suggested it and others agreed). Using TREX as a base board was suggested by Mike B. The walls are looking much better.
I'm still doing this all by myself so it might take a while. The photos show what I got done today in about 8 hours. I work slow.
Allen Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer 1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer 1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod 1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great 1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week 1974 Stingray Corvette
Great Job! How are you going to manage a corner stud for the back (rear) wall?
~ Cosmo 1949 Chevy Half Ton Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities. "...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes "If you come to a fork in the road, take it."...Yogi Berra "Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer
Great Job! How are you going to manage a corner stud for the back (rear) wall?
I'll probably fasten a trimmed down 2X4 to the inside corner where the right wall meets the back wall. Then screw my horizontal 1X4 strips to those. I need to get a little creative.
Rip a 2X4 down the middle and attach it to the metal upright with self-drilling screws. That's the simplest way to provide a place to drive wood screws. I'll be doing something similar when I frame out the interior walls of my shop, but the PVC electrical conduit is going to go in first. One entire 40' wall will be dedicated to machine tools, so there will be a fair amount of electrical work involved. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I'm an old-school builder- - - -air lines will be black iron pipe, probably 3/4" NPT. I've seen a few shops plumbed for air with PVC, but I've also seen the aftermath of a couple of pipe fatigue fractures using that stuff. The main thing to remember is just like with any other plumbing, "Schtuff" flows downhill! Air lines need to have enough downward slope to allow a drain at the end of each pipe run to effectively eliminate moisture, and the drains should be opened frequently! I'll probably incorporate a refrigeration-style drier somewhere in the system, but NOT close to the compressor. Hot compressed air is very difficult to de-water. I like to run the air compressor output pipe up to ceiling level, all the way across the shop, then plumb it back down to floor level to the drier. That puts distance and gravity on my side so the drier has the best chance to do its job effectively. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
There are a couple of plastic pipe materials that are "rated" for compressed air, but I'm with you, Jerry on the black iron pipe. It won't explode on you. As far as piping compressed air, a generous water trap w/drain at the compressor before going overhead, then sloped down to the last outlet which should have another valved water trap at the bottom. Any intermediate taps between compressor should be taken off from the top of the main and then turned down to the outlet. They should probably also have at least a drip leg on the bottom as well, with the tap coming off the side of the drop. Air can hold more moisture as it gets compressed (and heated up), and it loses it's capacity to hold water as it cools down in the pipe runs. A refrigerated dryer works fine immediately after the compressor as the hot air is passing over really cold (below dew point) surfaces which sucks the water out. But letting it cool down first works as well, just adds more pipe to the system.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I dealt with an improperly-engineered dryer system for 20-something years at the high school where I taught auto mechanics. The compressors had plenty of capacity- - - -two 30 HP compressors with 500 gallon tanks and a 3" diameter output line, but the output went directly into a big chiller dryer instead of being located across the equipment room about 30 feet like it should have been. That system supplied 12 shops- - - -aircraft, auto body, welding, refrigeration, electronics, wood shop, printing, etc. Moisture in the air lines was a chronic problem, and nobody was interested in listening to my suggestions to fix it. Sometimes I'd have to let the air run for 30 minutes before it got dry enough to paint a car without contaminating the paint I was spraying, and I had water traps in the body shop to supplement the building dryer system! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Hopefully, you will paint with a light color? It will help with lighting. Although, that was always the battle. Light paint would show the dirt.
One trick, in some of the shops I worked at, was to paint a dark color from the floor, up 6 feet. Then do a light color to the ceiling to help reflect light.
